The solenoid of which you speak basically blocks a circuit in the carb to lessen backfire/ emissions when shut off. If you feel a tic or hear a click when the the key is turned to run- it is working. You can remove it and watch it actuate too. It will not however prevent the condition you are having. You may have a touch of debris between the float valve and seat which is allowing the fuel through. If there is a worn "ring" pattern in the valve- replace it for sure or do it anyway. Clean the tank and bowl, flush the lines and thru the float valve w/ fresh fuel, replace the fuel filter, change the oil (plus oil filter if equipped). Hook the spark plug wire over the torx headed bolt and crank the engine to expel more of the fuel.Reinstall the spark plug and wire and expect more emissions for the first few minutes. remember that the muffler may have oil, fuel washed down inside of it and tho possibility of fire is slight, prepare for it none the less. The condition may still reoccur. An inline shut off valve kit is a great thing to install and use. That way, if a failure happen whilst it is sitting- the engine and muffler won't flood.

Buy a can of spray carburetor cleaner. With the air filter cover off, spray about a one or two second burst of the carb cleaner into the carburetor throat. Then try to start the engine. If the engine starts and runs for about 2 seconds each time you spray the cleaner into the carb throat....your no start issue is due to no fuel delivery from the carb to the intake. If, however...the carb cleaner does not provoke the engine to run (for a couple seconds) that means the problem lies elsewhere. Bear in mind, the mere presence of a spark does not mean the spark is happening at the proper time. It is possible that the first episode of trouble, resulting in some "back firing" may have partially sheared the flywheel key, which would put the ignition spark timing to something other than the proper time. But don't go yanking the flywheel off yet. Let's see how it does on the alternate fuel (carb cleaner) first. Then we'll go from there to a next step.

All updates concerning this engine swap will end up here ... not in the big ole nut thread. It looks like Bill K was right. Just talked to a B&S tech. The 10 amp had bigger mags on the flywheel despite the one part number. So I'm not quite pushing enough power even with the stator swap. It does however push enough to work the PTO clutch maybe with a little battery help I really don't know yet for sure but it has done a fine job mowing half the acre. Only reason I know for sure its not pushing enough is when I engage the PTO the battery charge light comes on too. According to the B&S tech it should work fine for me if I put a charger on it after using it. Which IMHO is a small price to pay for not having to go out and buy a new throwaway mower. As for my measurements on the electrics they came up wonky as all get out ... I'm beginning to wonder about the accuracy of my multimeter. 2amps at .5 volts? Ill give it another test later and hopefully get a better reading. Gonna get some alligator clips for the multimeter so I know that I am making contact well. The little pokie probes are unreliable in my book unless I can actually stick them in something. For now I must go and get another bolt to hold the steering linkage that I apparently didn't bolt down well enough after dropping the engine in.

I took Windcatcher's advice and checked out Smallenginewarehouse on the net and this morning after talking to Briggs & Stratton tech support, I bought the 20 HP Vanguard for $699.00. My cooked motor is an 18 HP. The engines at SEW are 2006s which is fine with me if it saves me $1,000.00 since they're still brand new with a two year warrantie. Shipping is free and they said it should take four days to get from Indiana to SE Ontario in four days by Fedex. No customs hassle. It should arrive and be installed in time for when my four acres needs to get mowed next. Don 1 2006 "Seems to me if you were checking the oil as recommended before use you would notice a nest or two in the engine compartment. Isn't this normal procedure"? It's not that easy to see a nest or anything else between the engine and cowling. My first clue was that the engine seemed to be slowly going through oil (I use synthetic). The second and final clue was it seemed to have less power than normal so I was surprised to learn the one cylinder was hardly working at all. That's a good testimonial to the Briggs Vanguard motor. johntommybob ... I've always used Bounce and mothballs in my boat when I store it in the garage for the winter. I've never had any signs of mice in the 7 years I've had the boat. Maybe I'll ram some Bounce in the tractor too. I've heard that it has to be only Bounce and not any other clothes dryer cloth do-dad.