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Growing Hickory and Hican for Nut Production (3)

9 years ago

Continuing from part 1 and 2
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Good looking color on that late starter, treebird.

Dax

Featured Answer

Steven Gubkin

8 years ago

@treebird101 Would you be able to provide scionwood of the lake icaria cultivar next spring? It seems really promising. I would be willing to pay. You can email me at steven.gubkin@gmail.com

Thanks to everyone in this thread for providing such an amazing resource. I think this may be the most concentrated source of information on hickory nut cultivation on the web.

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Comments (135)

devonhubb
8 years ago
Hark is protandrous. Kanza is protogynous.

Seems like a match made in heaven......

Kanza is widely available and should be easy to find.
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
It is a match made in heaven, indeed!

F2 Hark - we still don't know what pollinated it and when it's going to flower/shed pollen since it isn't the true cultivar. But... I agree Devon that poaky should be growing those two cultivars. There's no doubt whatsoever.

Dax
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Olpea, The tree is striking no doubt! Gorgeous! Well I used to grow things just for ornamental value. After waiting 30 years for a cactus to flower, and it did. But I felt that was a good waste of 30 years! The flower was fantastic, but still I felt I wanted more. I have always grown edibles too, but mostly on a very small scale. So I extended my edibles by leaps and bounds. Although I still do like ornamentals, unusual ones and have many of them. This year I added the night blooming jasmine. The most fragrant flowering plant in the world. Now my whole house smells like the Caribbean! The scent though is powerful, and some may think it smells like hand soap! It reminds me of my many trips to Jamaica. I love it! I also added a clumping bamboo and it is beautiful. I want to buy a few other cultivars. So cool I can grow it outside here! I really love that! I also added the Arabic jasmine. National flower of the Philippines. And it is an edible. I'm sure you've heard of jasmine rice. The flowers are used to flavor rice, or used as a tea. I agree though I do try and add edible ornamentals, but for me some exceptions exist.
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Olpea, thats interesting on the relative insect pressure -- sounds similar to fruit trees but less extreme all around since the thick shells slow 'em down. Here is a draft of my overview I put together .. I roughy ranked them in the order I think they would be interested in given the need for large trees with no maintenance but good nuts. I'm not sure what to say about almonds but I have heard of no success stories in my climate. Similar for pine nuts, but it seems like they would work better. Edible Landscaping is selling some nut pines. It seems like they would be a good deal if you are wanting to put in some pine trees anyway. The description overviews are from some permaculture book I found online (West Coast Food Forestry), it has the size pollination etc basic info. Scott Nuts for Maryland For all nuts except for chestnuts squirrels are a big problem in Maryland. They can get all the crop until the tree is large. 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May only yield during especially hot Summers in cooler areas. Pollination inhibited by high humidity. Easy to grow. Disease-resistant (including oak root fungus). Casts heavy shade. Flowers April- May, ripens Oct. Propagated from stratified seed, softwood cuttings, layering, root suckers. Hickory (two kinds, shellbark and shagbark) Very nice landscape specimens; shagbark has bark like a shaggy dog's fur Very good-tasting nuts, some of the best Varieties resistant to weevil: Lindauer shellbark, J.Yoder #1 shagbark Slow to come into bearing Scab and phylloxera are minor problems generally not needing treatment; shellbark usually does better with scab. Shagbarks taste better and crack better but are a bit smaller nuts. Two needed for pollination; do most pairs pollinate each other? The HIcan is a shellbark/pecan cross which is also supposed to be a good-tasting nut. Hickory- 60- 120 ft tall and 40 ft wide trees of two North American species, shellbark (Carya laciniosa) and shagbark (C. ovata), that produce flavorful nuts (13% protein, 64% fat, and high in thiamin, Cu, Mg, Zn, Mn) with thick shells. Also produce hardwood. Prefer full sun. Shellbarks can tolerate seasonal flooding and poor drainage, while shagbarks will grow in heavy clay soil, are wind-tolerant, and can be coppiced. Thinner-shelled and larger nut varieties available. Fall color. Need two for pollination. Resistant to oak root fungus. Cast heavy shade. Shellbarks flower April- May, ripen Sept- Oct. Shagbarks flower June, ripen Oct-Nov. Propagated from stratified seed. Black Walnut Fairly fast bearing Seedlings also an option for cheaper trees - they usually produce good trees if seed is from named varieties. 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Prefers alkaline soil. Wind and drought-tolerant.Disease and fire-resistant. More productive with multiple varieties. Excretes chemicals toxic to certain plants (allelopathic especially to apples). Casts heavy shade. Flowers March- June, ripens Sept- Nov. Propagated by stratified seeds. Chestnut Think of a chestnut as a nut-potato cross, they are somewhere between those two. Make sure to get the Chinese-American crosses which are resistant to chestnut blight. Dunstan clones are good. Two are needed for pollination; Dunstans are seedlings so any two of those will work. Not picky about location, in particular can tolerate dryness. Problems with burrs piercing shoes; flower smell is also somewhat unappealing to some (but not as bad as e.g. Ginko). Nuts don't store as long as other nuts, but can be stored like root vegetables to lengthen use period. Trees grow very wide Chestnut (Castanea spp.)- numerous varieties reaching 30- 60 ft tall and wide (European chestnut [C. sativa] can get up to 100 x 100 ft) grown primarily for its sweet nut, being compared to potato (5-10% complete protein, 9% fat), and also for its rot-resistant wood. An 8 ft dwarf Korean chestnut (C. crenata) is also available. Nuts are high in Cu, Mn, B vitamins, and vit C and do not store long unless dried, stored airtight in sand, or refrigerated, but they can be used like other grains and ground into flour. Drought-tolerant. Does not like wet soil. Prefers acidic soil. Need two for pollination (can plant two in one hole). Easy to grow. Yellow in Fall. Can be coppiced for nuts and wood.Blight-resistant varieties (usually hybrids with Chinese chestnut [C. mollisima]) preferable. European chestnut is resistant to oak root fungus. Casts heavy shade.Flowers July, ripens Oct- Nov. Propagated from seed (yields in 5- 7 years), root suckers. Filbert More like a fruit tree in size compared to usual nut trees. Need varieties resistant to eastern blight. Does not tolerate drought but is easy to grow otherwise. Need two trees for pollination. Filbert (Corylus spp.)- 10- 15 ft tall and wide multi-stemmed tree grown for its nuts, which are 13% protein, 61% fat, high in Ca, Cu, Mg, Mn, B vitamins, and vit E. Nuts store for over a year. Very productive and easy to grow. Can take partial shade, late frost, wind, wet soil, and a wide pH. Does not like intense Summer heat. Forms an excellent hedge when planted at 4 ft intervals. Fruits on last year’s new wood. Must have appropriate pollinating varieties as companions. Fall color. Blight- resistant varieties preferable (especially in north). Must harvest nuts early to beat squirrels. Casts heavy shade. Flowers Jan- April, ripens Sept- Oct. Propagated by seed, division, layering. Pine nuts Several pine trees can produce nuts: Chinese white pine, Korean pine, Italian Stone Pine. 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j s, I don't know for certain but I'd check these: England's Orchard and Nursery Nolin River Nursery Grimo Nursery (Canada) Also, The Nebraska Nut Growers Association and other State Nut Growers Associations. It's obvious to assume you want to roll the dice with good seed and wait for them to produce nuts 20-30 years later according to what you wrote. I can also assume if you would be grafting onto these in the future, that you want shagbark as your rootstocks and not pecan. Dax
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there was similar post earlier this spring; you may want to search for more info. there's also an edible landscaping forum, which may be fun to peruse. i have many cane berries and crosses- black, red and purple raspberries, 2 red raspberry/blackberry crosses, 3 varieties of blackberries, and wineberries (sort of a red rasp that will fruit in shade). they've all done pretty well for me, even though i'm borderline for the amount of light they want, and all have fruited. i also have an asian persimmon*, asian pears* (3x grafted- not sure the varieties off the top), seckle pear*, another european pear, an espaliered apple* 3x, not sure of varieties, a grafted 4x apple* (fuji, braeburn, wynochee early & cox's orange pippen), 2 cornus mas aka cornelian cherries, a sour cherry* (northstar), a sweet cherry i think i lost to the frost (compact stella), 2 types of bush cherries*, contorted jujube, 4 or 5 types of figs* (but some are still tiny), pomegranate*, rabbiteye blues* (climax, tiffblue, powderblue and premier), evergreen huckleberry, which is still small, hazelnuts, tree hazel, loquat, trifoliate orange*, pawpaws, a potted meyer's lemon*, a potted patio nectarine*, potted gooseberries*, mulberries*, honeyberry and red currents, hardy kiwis*, artic kiwis, schizandra vine, regular strawberries* galore, alpine strawberries*, and probably some other stuff i'm forgetting. a couple things that haven't done well are the honeyberries and i can't keep rhubarb going for anything (wish i could, i miss it). the gooseberries and tree cherries have struggled. thimble berry aka flowering raspberry which is a thornless bush that bears red rasps, has done well, but will not set fruit below a mtn elevation (didn't know til after i bought them). the easiest things i have are the blues, persimmon, strawberries and asian pears. the pears require some pruning but that's about it, and the other 3 don't even really need that. caneberries are pretty easy, but you do have to know how to prune them. about 1/2 of what i have is too small to bear still, so i can't say about the fruiting, but the plants have been ok. i'm starring the stuff i've had that's fruited. apples need sprayed to get edible fruit. there are organic methods out there, but since i'm lazy about spraying, we haven't had great yields. peaches and nectarines are probably the most labor intensive fruit you can grow, fyi. autumn olive is edible and makes a good syrup if you have some growing near you. it's related to goumi. we haven't messed with grapes because the regular ones don't do so hot and we don't care for muscadines. in general, we prefer to grow stuff you can't find in market, or is too expensive, or just tastes a bunch better fresh. we haven't bothered with most nuts because we don't have the sun or space. hazelnuts are bushes that do ok in part shade, so they are going in the backyard (still potted for now). there are 3 books i highly recommend if you get into edible landscaping: both stella otto's 'backyard berry' book and 'backyard orchardist' books and another that goes by 'organic gardener's edible plants' by van patten. have fun experimenting and bon appetit!
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gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
Poak: send a message to me so I can send a seedling. I found some F2 Mullahy's today.

Dax
devonhubb
8 years ago
Dax,
What does the "F2" mean? As in "F2 Hark" and "F2 Mullahy"?

Just curious.

Devon
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
2nd generation (a seedling of the true-grafted Hark or the ortet Hark.) If this seedling produced pecans and another tree is grown from one of its' pecans it would be an F3 Hark... and so on.

Dax
devonhubb
8 years ago
That makes sense. Is the Hark scion that you sent me true Hark or F2?
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
It's from the ortet tree.

There are no bearing F2 Hark seedling-trees that I know of.

Dax
poaky1
8 years ago
Okay Dax, the issue isn't what goes with what, Rogers Mullhally died. I know you explained that the Hark and Mullhally go together, I still prefer seedlings, long story short I will gladly take the Mullhally that you found. I will pay you for it, as you already sent me 3 or 4 of these seedlings, I do appreciate it very much. If he doesn't keep it alive, I won't bug you again. If you lost my address let me know. Thanks for looking/finding another Mull. seedling. Poaky1
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
You're welcome, Poaky. I don't have your address so send a message, please. I'll send it on Monday.

Dax
poaky1
8 years ago
I just told Roger (neighbor) about it, and he is really happy. My address is 119 Vail Lane Smock Pa 15480 J. Gogola And thanks a bazzilion Dax. poaky1
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
Got it. You are welcome, J.

Dax
poaky1
8 years ago
I received the tree Wednesday. I gave it to Roger the same day. He is going to plant it on Sunday. I told him to plant it right away, he wants to soak it and put it where a Flowering almond is, someone will pull out the Flowering almond Saturday. I want to grab him by the throat and choke him til he says "I'll plant it right now". I told him at least 3 times to get it in the ground ASAP and water well. He was drinking and had a guy there that was helping him to do yard work. I REALLY APPRECIATE you sending this seedling. If he kills it, I WILL give him more hell than he knew existed. I should not have mentioned this, but, if he kills it, I guess I will have a beautiful tree with the "Hark" from you. I just want to throttle him right now. I will update on it's condition, I didn't know he was so damn stupid, I am really mad. I should have just planted in in my yard. I am beyond pissed. I feel like taking it back, and just saying "I don't know" If he asks if I know where it is. I just may confront him tommorrow. I told him, "this is it" that I can't get another tree. I could just go over there and tell him that I will plant it in my yard. I feel such rage. WEll, Sorry Dax. I will be sending you an envelope soon. I will be checking his yard for the removal of that Flowering Almond. I planted it there in 1996 in April. But, I hope he moves it tommorrow, and gets that damn Pecan in the ground. If it dies I am gonna give him more verbal punishment than an ex wife. I can't believe the ignorance. I bothered you, which I REALLY didn't want to do, and he won't plant it right away, Oh, I am livid. When (if) I see it planted and doing well, I will tell ya Dax. BTW, the Libani, and MY Pecan (Hark) are lookin good. My other trees from seed, My Hickory's and a few other seeds I sowed never produced seedlings. I will be posting about this (Mullhally) seedling. If he kills it, I will make sure he NEVER FORGETS IT, beleive me. I will try to remain possitive. He did say he would moisturize the roots in a pot. Anyhoo, I will send you a envelope ASAP, Dax, you are a super Dude, Dax I can't thank you enough. Poaky1
poaky1
8 years ago
I just got a Quartz mountain Live oak from Joe in Moe, I just wanna say that Joe and you Dax are very appreciated by me. If I can send you any acorns or plants in the future, I gladly will. I just have Rock Chestnut oak, and possibly Pin oak and Nuttal's oak. I have some sprouts in pots that MAY be SASSAFRAS or HEMLOCK. I REALLY DON"T KNOW YET. They could just be weed sprouts. I hope I can help ya's in the future guys, P{oaky1
treebird101
8 years ago
Very nice work Dax! It looks like you are having great success. What all do you have grafted there? Is there any hickory in there? My Hark graft I put on this year is really starting to bolt now. It's right next to a kanza tree.
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Poaky, go over there, kick him in the nuts, pick up the tree, and return home. ;-) I had an unfortunate problem with my potting mix from last year. I used recycled potting mix that's been recycled I don't know how many times. As a result, I had very low germination on just about everything. Of 96 Quercus montana that I planted from you, About 5-6 came up. What happened to all the seeds is the taproot emerged and turned black and so did the inside of all my seeds. I'm done blending my own mix and recycling soil. I'm just buying promix now. Thank you for sharing with me though.

Heya Tyler, I only grafted C.ovata 'Silvis 303' & quite a number of hicans in addition to the pecans being the majority. I still have a lot of buds waiting for temperatures to increase so they get moving. I guess the other half of it is the first 100 plus I grafted onto Missouri Nursery seedlings that I purchased last year and planted. When I dug those 90 of 100 let's say didn't have any fibrous roots - just a carrot root. So...... you and I both know there isn't much energy to push the scions.

I'll nurse them along, the ones that may take several many years to show anything significant, but that's 1/2 of what's going on here.

Best regards,

Dax
treebird101
8 years ago
All my grafts where done on Missouri pecan rootstock this year as well. They used to have extra large seedlings advertized but that hasn't been the case for 3 years now. I just have to order a bunch and maybe I'll get 10 nice ones. I have some Porter and Longnecker scion wood left over if you want. They are both really excellent hickories. Porter shag is one of the best flavored and Longnecker is a not well circulated excellent shellbark. Porter from PA and Longnecker is from MO. I only graft the best hickories. Let me know if your interested. Shoot me an email. Tyler
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
I learned a valuable lesson buying MO nursery seedlings the year prior. It was three times the work; the soil I put them in was constantly moist (which I thought would be good) but that's the reason all the fibrous roots went kaput. And lastly, if I order them and have them sent at grafting time right from the time they dig, there's no work for me involved and, the roots are perfect in most all cases.

I graft into the roots of those that aren't of caliper, Tyler. You can always do that. So even with 100 seedlings sent this year at grafting time, I was able to utilize all but a few. Putting a scion on a root is just as stable as grafting to the portion of the seedling above the root. I know because bonsai grafts are all done right to the roots.

I don't have any seedlings right now so scionwood won't be an option. Thanks for your offer.

Dax
P.s. The Hark onto F2 Hark didn't do squat. I must have grafted a dozen or so. Maybe they'll break later this year or maybe next year or... maybe not at all. Ironically (2) Hark I put on F2 Major at the same time I grafted all the others onto MO. seedlings, those two are breaking. Those Hark on F2 Hark I grafted in March, six weeks prior.
treebird101
8 years ago
Wow, F2 Major rootstock usually makes a pretty good rootstock. I know that's what Nolin River generally uses. My T-92 hican is grafted on F2 major and it's a honking grower.
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
I grafted T-91. Any idea if it's a good one?
poaky1
8 years ago
Hey Dax, Those Prinus/Montana acorns sprout very quickly, so I can see what you meant that you only got 6 or so trees from them. And I am HAPPY to say that he did plant it and I added mulch around it when he wasn't home, which slightly irritated him, but too bad, it even pushed out a couple new leaves so that is good. And as a bonus one that he thought had died is up now, likely the Hark I gave him from you last spring or whenever it was, the Mullhally from before was in a different spot than this one that came up a few days ago, so it must be another Hark, so all is good with the Pecans, and I am going to send you your shipping cost, just except it please, you have sent so many trees without asking for squat. I haven't got it out to you as I wanted to days ago, but, it will get there soon. Thanks Dax Poaky1
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
He has two Mullahy's then (F2). Sweet! Don't even fuss over a few dollars Poaky... it's the tree that matters. I'm glad both you and oh boy chillin' got them in the ground and that two are growing as of now. I'm real happy.

Thank you for the update.

Take care, girl.

Dax
poaky1
8 years ago
Oh, BTW, if I send you the Prinus/Montana seeds as soon as they start getting almost tan, maybe you could get more trees from them. This tree rains tons of acorns every year, I am talking that it starts in late Aug or early Sept, depending on weather conditions. If you don't need any more rootstock or whatever you want em for okay, but, this tree covers the whole underneath of the tree every year since about 6 yrs old. Take care Dax And the pooch, I forget her name, my Ooffer is still doing good. The Burr oak from the giant acorn is doing great also. Okay, Poaky1
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
It was my recycled potting mix that killed the radicle on not just the montana's but all my flats suffered, big-time.

I'm going to have to start cutting back on what I grow. I have far too many seedlings right now for space to store them. But, I won't forget you have a good bearing tree if I indeed want to grow another round of them. They would've sold like hotcakes on ebay and I'd of had extra grafting rootstock.

Dax
P.s. Pooch is Daisy... from Texas.
poaky1
8 years ago
Okay, I remember Daisy now. I just couldn't remember her name. but, I remembered Sophie's name. She had been mentioned alot, but, I did remember you got Daisy after a long trip to get her, I would've guessed either Okl. or Texas. I could'nt recall everything perfectly, I think me remembering OK or TEX, is good for my bad memory. Well, anyways Dax I will likely have a ton of the Prinus/Montana acorns every fall, so just hollar when you want me to send some. Later Dax Take care of you/pup Poaky1
poaky1
8 years ago
BTW< my local deer are aware of my Prinus/Montana bounty as of last fall, they ate many of them off the ground, and left poop for evidence, so i will likely have to pick early or some strategy, I just recalled that a few mins ago. There should still be some if needed, but, I'll need an early heads up maybe. Okay, Bye Dax Poaky1
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
Good enough. Thanks, poak.

Dax
snjwurz
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
I've read a lot of the posts in this thread and find the information very interesting and useful as I begin to learn the basics of nut tree grafting. As I read many raving comments on 'Hark', I am curious if anyone knows the shuck split date as compared to 'Colby'. It seems not a lot of data exists and research by Mr. Reid has just recently begun, but I also see that there is a fully mature tree in this thread, so someone must have an idea. The initial data on 'Hark' is very promising, but growing in central-IL always brings up cold hardiness and growing season concerns. I also understand Mr. Totten lives a couple of hours north of where I am. Attached are a couple of successful grafts from late May. The smaller graft is 'Hark'. Having only 2 years experience, my skills are not that great, and my success rate is ~20%.
Also, out of 6 successful grafts I did in 2014, only 1 survived...coincidentally, a 'Dumbell Lake' grafted to a native Shag stock (I had extra scion). I suspect the rough winter claimed the rest, but I'd love to hear if anyone has learned any techniques via the school-of-hard-knocks that they are willing to impart on a budding novice. Many thanks!
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
Hi Scott (snjwurz)

Hark is a 150-155 frost free days pecan. It flowers in the middle of May and shuck split begins middle of October. Technically it's a 150 days but 155 is probably more realistic.

A few photos now of this seasons harvest.

Carya illinoinensis 'Hark'

Carya illinoinensis 'Hark'

Carya illinoinensis 'Hark'

Carya illinoinensis 'Hark'

Carya illinoinensis 'Hark' - a major windstorm came thru on 11/12 and the ground under the ortet tree was blanketed.

Grafting went OK-only. 125 of my rootstocks went from roots with fibrous-branching to a carrot. They were worthless...

I had purchased those the fall prior and stuck them in the ground. So, I raced to get 75 additional seedlings from MO State Nursery. I have 82 takes. Each that didn't take as I pulled them from my rubbermaid bins filled with sawdust had a carrot root-system except a few.

Now- adding in that June was the rainiest month in history for IL - and all it did was rain throughout May... my grafts set there and did nothing. Of course all that rain will increase the flow of sap and will push the grafted scion away. Too much sap flow yields grafts that didn't have the proper conditions during a window of time necessary for the callous to heal over.

Next-year will be a good gauge for me. I have 200 seedlings on order so I'll see how that transpires.

Dax
treebird101
8 years ago
Steven, I sure can send you some Lake Icaria Scion. Dax, "Hark" is definitely a superstar! My 6 ft tree looks GREAT! Going to graft it all over, also have 150 Hark seed planted. This pecan is the NUT! and a perfect pollen companion for Kanza. Very nice photos bye the way. Why would this nut not be in the spotlight?
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
Bill Reid at KSU is definitely using 'Hark' pollen in breeding. His big breakaway from the USDA Pecan Breeding Program was saving 'Kanza' from extinction because the USDA had dismissed it. There's no doubt however that 'Hark' is going to play a big role in the future development of more cold-hardy selections. 'Kanza' is an excellent pecan, however, and Bill Reid did something excellent by recognizing it's attributes and potential for the homeowner and the industry. For me however... after having cracked Kanza and Hark side by side, Hark is thinner shelled and usually has a better colored kernel. It would be very difficult though to say that one or the other is the better pecan. 'Kanza' is just as delicious as a 'Hark' pecan.

Those photos above with the not as blonde of a kernel that Tyler shows are of nuts that did most of their drying on the tree but are still a much more moist kernel when cracked. They could use some drying. Still a beautiful color. What Tyler shows in his hand is a nut dried for two weeks with an oscillating fan laid out on cardboard.

I've seen nuts Bill Totten had in his refrigerator for two years ('Hark') that when cracked are as blonde as what Tyler shows, and, they were almost as fresh as an off the tree, fresh, pecan.

There is not a pecan I'd rather be growing, quite honestly. For taste, 'Hark' is difficult to beat.

Dax
treebird101
8 years ago
I couldn't agree more with you Dax. I cracked Kanza and Hark side by side too and thought the same thing. Lets just say side by side they are both superstars but I do lean a little more into Hark's favor. I really could see it being the future Northern Pecan standard.
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
Me too... flavor is a bit better than Kanza.
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Got these samples originating at Jerry Lehman's in Terre Haute, Indiana:

Hican 'McAllister'

Hican 'McAllister'

Hican 'McAllister'

Hican 'McAllister'

Carya illinoinensis 'Pounds' - Jerry has the ortet 'Pounds'

Carya illinoinensis 'Pounds'

Carya illinoinensis 'Pounds'

Carya illinoinensis 'Pounds'

Carya illinoinensis 'Pounds'

'McAllister' has kernel fuzz. Sort of wet. Flavor wasn't very good likely due to nut/kernel not being dry.

'Pounds' also wet. Flavor not good at this stage.

Both were bland, of course. No sweetness.

Shell of 'Pounds' is much thicker than 'Hark'. Prying it open with my fingernails was somewhat difficult. Then again... may be that the entire shell/kernel wasn't dry enough.

Dax
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
Have more samples. This time of heartnuts.

Juglans ailantifolia 'Campbell CW-1'

Juglans ailantifolia 'Imshu'

Juglans ailantifolia 'Imshu'

Juglans ailantifolia 'Locket'

Juglans ailantifolia 'Simcoe 8-2'

Juglans ailantifolia 'Stealth'

Juglans ailantifolia 'Stealth'

Dax
fusion_power
8 years ago
Update that I had failure on several of my grafts including Kanza and the Lake Icaria hickory. I did get several others that made it.

I have a large and well developed tree of Adams #5. This was a cleft graft on top of a 10 year old seedling. The graft is now about 12 feet tall after 2 years. From what I can see so far, this tree has excellent scab resistance. I should get a few nuts from it next year.
I have a grafted Amling that is finally showing some serious growth. This tree has struggled because it is in relatively poor soil. It made 3 feet of very solid growth this year after some compost and fertilizer tea.
I have an Excel that is starting to show significant growth. I'm going to take some scionwood from it next spring and graft a larger tree so I can get some nuts a few years early.

Of the seedling trees I planted on my land, only 1 out of 30 looks like it will be a decent nut producer. I will start grafting them over to named varieties next spring. I ordered a Zinner and an Ellis for December delivery. They will be planted in my yard where I can watch as they develop and take scionwood in a year or so.

A hard frost last week put all the leaves on the ground so the trees have finally gone dormant.
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
What is the seed source or sources of your seedling pecans?

From the cultivars listed, it may appear you're purchasing from Plant Me Green . com

The only one they list hardy enough for up here is Starking Hardy (Giant) which Gary Fernald has decided is a good pecan. I had one but dropped a 75' poplar. In retrospect, I'd of dug it up temporarily until I was finished dropping trees.

Where are you located, fusion?

Dax
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
Living triple extra super double large: 'Selbher' shellbark hickory pie:-)

Very - very - very - good!

Dax
dpotts44
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
hey I am not used to this . Is there a limit to how many words I use?

I am a long time member of NNGA. Gary may remember me, I went to green island a couple times. I have not been active . I do not have space for many trees. I have pawnee, colby and a few hickories and hicans.

I am the poorest grafter in North Carolina . One successful Pawnee and about 12 duds of Kanza.

Jerry

I do not have an email handle
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
Hi Jerry, I don't see you above but I've seen your "dpotts44" handle somewhere. Welcome aboard.

Dax
treebird101
8 years ago
Very Sweet, custom made Mr. Hickory Nut Cracker. Made by Fred
Blankenship (270)- 272-7670 . John Deere Halvin edition. This man is
talented at making these nut busters. Like a BOSS!
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
Got one too. John Deere Green. It's a machine. A very well thought out design.

Dax
dpotts44
8 years ago
Is this discussion still usable? I am wondering if anyone else has Fairbanks. What is their opinion. I think it bears annually if there is a pollinator. It may not be fussy.The nut needs to be better .That's why the next generation is needed.

jerry
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago

Dax
devonhubb
8 years ago
Nice video Dax. Thanks for taking the time to produce and share that.

The walnut saw is interesting as well. But at $270, it may be a bit steep for most folks. But still an interesting concept.

Walnut Saw
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
That Walnut Saw is pretty awesome. First time I watched that but have seen it on youtube many times as I roam around.

I'm going to upload the two sheets/directions that Fred sent along with his cracker. It was pointed out this morning in an email that I likely was cracking Hickory's incorrectly.

Sorry everyone. I feel like a dummy.

Dax
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
I'll be most interested to hear what others with Fred's cracker have to say regarding cracking Hickory.

Thanks for the thumbs up, Devon!

Best,

Dax
treebird101
8 years ago
Very nice video Dax. I don't split everything along the suture before I start cracking though. I usually use the nibbler as more of a finishing tool by wedging the nut in certain positions and cutting away pieces of the shell cavity that trap bits of kernel. I would've mentioned the two point position holes at the main hinge point used for adjusting for wider nuts. It helps to get wider nuts further back in the hinge where most of the force and pressure is. I like the catch box you built, I need to make one of those too. The John Deere Colored cracker I gave to my father in law. He said its too pretty to use, lol. I told him Its supposed to be used just like he uses his tractors. I was going to make a video too but I think the picture will be smaller because I can only use my phone. Again, very nice production! Tyler
gardener365
Original Author
8 years ago
Sure, I can see how the nibbler would be perfect for cracking already cracked portions to free up the kernel. It makes a lot of sense. I guess my limited experience using it might of been a leap forward in making this video when I should've taken a few steps back, first...

Thanks for your input, Tyler, & thanks very much. I went at it thinking I was a pro ;-)

Dax
marc5
8 years ago
I realize I'm late to the party on this thread, but I've developed a great interest in hickories and hicans. I have abandoned my efforts in Persian walnuts due to their inability to survive the past two winters here. This thread could be the basis of a fantastic textbook. Thanks to all contributors. Treebird, your Lake Icaria sounds wonderful. Could I beg some scionwood? I'm sure I don't have anything to offer that you don't already have, but I would certainly reimburse any shipping costs. Any other selections you think would thrive in SW Ohio would be appreciated. You may contact me via private message.

Many thanks,

Marc

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