First, the DIY test kits are a waste of time and money. They are notorious for being inaccurate and mis-leading. So either get a pro test done from your local county AG office or don't do anything to your garden based on the DIY kit. Second, most all garden soils will test normal to high in P as most all soils have plenty of it naturally - one reason why most new fertilizers are being sold P-free. Third, most compost can't be your only source of nutrients, especially N, unless your soil also has a very active soil-food web, a good working micro-herd of bacteria to convert the compost to nutrients for the plants. How much N your compost may have in it all depends on what the rabbits are fed and how long it is composted. N leaches and evaporates out of compost and soil very quickly - which is why it always tests low - so it may require regular additions of other N sources or at least of more quality compost several times during the season. Too many who grow exclusively with compost make the mistake of assuming a 1x a year addition is sufficient for N. Unfortunately, given the fragile nature of N, it isn't. But the place to start is with a REAL soil test. Dave

Yea. I use a few 5 gal bucket I too dont worry about what I put in it. I cover with ply-wood and flys find their way in and make maggots wich help the precess then I dump the infested waste into the compost area. Hope that helped. Just let it sit in the mound and turn everytime you get a chance. Mine heats up just fine.

dalton thanks for the pics. I have been talking to my husband about making a bin. When I saw your pallets I knew that was the bin for me. Maybe because I can get the pallets free and it does not look hard to do. Swanz that is a very nice bin my hats off to you. I tried to do that once and my daughter just laughed at the finished product and my family threw it out. Oh well so much for building things.

A level of organic matter in soil of about 6 to 8 percent is optimal. To get to that level requires a lot of organic material, compost is one source. How much, if any, organic matter is in that soil now? Too much organic matter in soil can be detrimental rather than helpful because the soil then could retain too much moisture which will cause more problems. Perhaps these simple soil tests may be of some help. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. kimmq is kimmsr