Maybe you should take care of that sitting water, because that ain't good, can you drain it away? A french drain? Since the buds haven't broken yet I'd prune, because it looks as if the tree is growing into the power lines or is that on the other side of the fence? Can you top out the preach because it seems to be taking off for the sky? Maybe cut back a third of the two main leaders.

Here is a link that might be useful: Propagating Perennials

is this ornamental or fruit bearing? .... there is a fruit and orchard forum.. where you might find production pruning ideas.. as compared to tree pruning ideas .. i do not THINK that they go by the same rules ... evidenced by the apple orchard i happened to drive by yesterday ... and the ability to see thru the leafless trees.. and being stunned by how they prune such ... let me tell ya. . they arent pretty .. but they dont need ladders for harvest ....

if the water is short term.. only related to spring thaw.. i would ignore it ... it is vastly apparent .. that the tree has not previously been harmed by such .... us cold zone peeps have a multitude of thaw issues that warmer zone peeps might not appreciate.. lol ... and being transitory .. they arent that problematic ... on the other hand.. peach isnt a swamp tree ... so if it is not a short lived phenom ... you will need to fix it ....

good luck

ken

My primary concern is that you have a maturing tree with co-dominant leaders (a fork). That's something that does not look like it can be 'fixed', at this point. You might be able to reduce the height by making some proper heading back cuts, but it's difficult for us to determine that with the pictures.

By the way, topping a tree is something that should never be done, for any reason. Topping never solves the problem you want it to, and will almost always result in a handful of other problems! A general rule of thumb with informed arborists is that if 'topping' appears to be the only solution for a tree problem, then that tree needs to be removed.

Here is a link that might be useful: 'tree topping' information

It LOOKS as though in past years, someone tried to train the peach as a fruiting peach would be trained - low branches, with an open center, but that the training was not kept up for whatever reason. If you don't want a "production" fruit tree, then I would suggest removing it, not for fear of topping it, but because the lines running through it are a continuing danger - more so if electric, and less so if phone, but they could interrupt your service if a branch breaks.

It would be nice to know if the lines (power, telephone, whatever?) that are visible are also growing through the middle of the tree or not. If they are, and they are power lines, I would suggest that you get a certified arborist or the power co. to come trim the tree - they are trained to work around electricity, have the equipment and have the insurance to deal with any mishaps, although the power co. may not be noted for excellence in tree-trimming. If that is not in your budget (power co. shouldn't charge for it, at least not around here, they don't), then I can only say to be EXTREMELY CAREFUL - my advice truly is to NOT DO ANYTHING TO THE TREE yourself. If it's telephone lines, you still need to be careful, but not to the extreme that electric lines call for - you can still get hurt, but it is much less likely to be fatal.

Despite what Rhizo says, the training of a production fruit tree is NOT the same as the training of an ornamental tree. They CAN be similar, but may not have the same aims in mind and may not use the same criteria for what is "good" training/pruning and what is not.

Sticking to the principle to remove no more than a third of a tree's canopy at one time, I would, looking at the top photo, take off the upper branch on the right hand side which is growing back into the center of the tree. I would shorten the left hand branch back by about half, and maybe tidy out any minor crossing or rubbing branches, but leave it for this year. Next spring, I would take both sides back further, until you have a tree shape you can live with, maybe taking a couple of years to be done, since only a quarter to a third of the canopy should come off annually.

Follow the rest of the basic good pruning principles as well - never cut a branch directly overhead; have assistance; keep your tools clean and sharp; don't leave stubs; cut using the 3-cut principle for large branches so as not to tear bark - make cut number one about 1' beyond where your final cut will be, cutting from below to about halfway through, make cut #2 beyond that by a few inches, cutting from above and taking off the branch, then make your final cut, taking the stub off to the trunk or to a larger branch.

I would advise you to get hold of a book (or two) on pruning orchard trees - if there are any practical demonstrations offered (county extension office, community college, local orchard, etc.) I would suggest you go, as doing/seeing it is worth many words, photos and diagrams.

brilliant ideas .. especially from dibbit.. and all others ...

BUT .. and there always is one .... your question specifically asked if it is a lost cause ...

yes it is ... period ... except for practice.. see below ....

for 30 to 40 dollars.. you can get a new.. probably better selection of peach tree and plant it in less than 20 minutes ...

why in the world you would spend hundreds of dollars to hire a trained arborist... is beyond me.. unless it is some family heirloom ... which i doubt it is ...

i presumed.. the the power line issue was an illusion ... as i have never seen a peach tree that is that big [not that i ever went looking for one.. nor bumped into one ... lol] .. and this one doesnt look that big from low trunk size.. nor have i ever seen power lines that low ...

if you dont want to buy another.. and it is not in the power lines.. and you are the type to tinker around learning new things.. like proper pruning of trees... this would make a good practice specimen... if you rescue it.. bravo .. if you screw it up... you can cut it down next year ...

good luck

ken

I think Ken has some VERY good points and probably has the best ideas yet. It may not be what you want to hear, but...., good luck.

This is such a great response from all of you. Thanks so much. It does look power lines are running through the middle but actually they are off to the right side. Those lines are kind of low -- maybe 9 or 10 feet.

I think this is going to end up becoming an experiment. If I did something drastic like taking off the top part of the two lead branches then I think that would be the same as topping it off. My question is would that result in more vigorous growth of the remaining lower branches ? My intuition tells me that new branches are not going simply 'pop out' from the lower branches if it's topped off. Is that true ?

You probably will get an increase in water-sprouts - upright, long growths, which should be removed.

And yes, the pruning I suggested is very similar to topping, but you aren't taking off the top of a tree and its leader, you are shortening branches that are too tall and ungainly for the tree. As I said, it looks as though someone already "topped" the tree a number of years ago, resulting in the wide, low branching (which IS desirable for a fruit-production tree), so you are just trying to make the tree into one that has an acceptable shape. The topping has already been done.

Although the power lines are off to one side, be VERY careful not to let anything touch them as you prune and move around the tree - aluminum ladders and pole pruners can conduct electricity.

I would have to side with dibbit. If you cut those branches back you will get a lot of new growth and a lot of water spouts. Just prune the water spouts when the tree is dormant and all will be well.

If you have never done this before I think you will be amazed at how fast the smaller branches and new branches are going to grow.