The biggest issue is fungus gnats. Tiny black flies that love to live indoors or out and infest every single plant even if its in a pot. They are smaller than fruit flies. Outdoors, I use a form of Bt and also benefical nematodes as I used to get a LOT of these fungus gnats, they even get inside the leaf layers of brussles sprouts, which are not good eating when you see tiny back flies in the cooking water. Indoors, when I start seeds, I use a mix of seed starting soils, like Natural Beginnings from Gardens Alive, as well as a Jiffy mix that is sold by the bag through sevral web sites, and even shreaded coconut husk fibers called coir. These are all quite 'clean' and have little to no real soil in them. They help hold just the right amount of moisture too. The fungus gnats usually come from outdoor soils, lay eggs in the soil that turn into tiny maggots and these feed off the tender roots of any plants. Thats one reason you see house plants suddenly dieing for no apparent reason. To check indoor plants, I use yellow sticky traps that rest horizontally on the edges of the pots. After just a couple of days, these traps can become loaded with tiny black gnats! Outside is where I use a form of Bt and also water in the beneficial nematodes that live in soil and go after the fungus maggots. My garden soil here isn't perfect, but if I can reduce harmful bugs from killing plants, its a big help. I use scent lures and sticky traps for my apples, peaches, and even cucumbers. Each sticky trap has a scent lure that attracts the pests common to these plants. Some plants and trees are highly resistant to diseases and bugs. Asian pears, asparagus, and blueberries to name a few. It may be better to head to a nursery/garden shop, as Home Depot and Lowes tend to offer a very limited amount of organic supplies. Here, we have only a very few products that are organic and most are for bugs (Neem) and disease control (Serende). The bags of soil offered by Miracle Grow tend to be a bit harsh as they simply use chemical equivilents to the real soil nutrients. I have a small leanto shed that stores corn gluten, fish meal, humate, kelp meal, and a few others. I use these as natural nitrogen additives, or in the case of humate, many minerals and micro nutrients. If you do plan to spray for any bugs that might be feeding on the leaves, try Neem. I wouldnt spray any herbs with anything unless the bugs are chewing holes in the leaves however. Bt, is a liquid mixed with water and has several different strains, of which one is for the gnat control. Ever hear of squash vine borers? These bugs bore into the base of squash vines and destroy the insides which cause the plants to quickly die. I have used another form of Bt and actually injected it into the main stems of squash plants, by using an insulin syringe. The Bt attacks the borers and kills them. Imagine a garden thats a living thing like us, it just can't survive all by itself if you want good yields and quality crops. I have only 2000 sq. feet of garden space, and there is also areas all around the edges of my garden that have fruit trees, or some permanent plants like asparagus and horse radish, which I harvest every spring. For your pot of cilantro, add some seeds every 2-3 weeks, so they can give you more than 1 or 2 harvests. Only thing is, if they are clumped together, they are hard to seperate if there are two stages of growth within each other. Indoors, I start about 60 petunia plants, 60 or so impatien plants, peppers, tomatos, basil, and a few others about mid April. This year, seedless watermelons with a necessary pollinator, as well as a few cantaloupe types. Brussels sprouts again too, but will be covered with a light weight white plastic fabric to block out the bugs, then my big batch of corn, which I plant every other year. I have a small tractor and a big rototiller to turn the soil over every spring, and work in any soil ammendments needed. Here is a link that might be useful: Natural Beginnings

I have to disagree with homehydro on this one. You should probably start over unless you feel like you cannot afford to do so. The pH being wildly thrown around has surely adversely affected plenty of those seeds. I have a hunch that quite a few may not even sprout (although I could be wrong). If you want less headache, less worrying, and a higher probability of success, restart. There are already so many "ifs" in hydroponic growing, that if there is any way you can block a probability and make it a definite, you should probably do it. The only reason NOT to would be for saving cash. Also, about the rockwool cubes: I would soak them. Some say you need to, others say you don't. I say you most certainly should soak the rockwool cubes in a pH balanced water. In fact, I reccomend soaking them in tap water or RO water for say 10 or 15 minutes. Pull them out of that water. Get some new water, and make sure it is as close to 7.0 pH or lower as you can get it. Soak them in this water for 45 minutes. That should do it, and honestly you will be better off because your pH will already be shifty, especially if you are using hard tap water. Using this method of pre-treating the rockwool cubes, you wil have less trouble in the long run! If you don't want to mess with getting a pH perfect solution, you can actualy purchase rockwool conditioner that apparently many people find to work great. Some of it even includes a great balance of nutrients for your seedlings. Theres my 2 cents!

This color is a nice neutral and I like the white trim that make the details of this room pop. Before deciding on the pieces, I would think more about the configuration of the room. I love that you are not putting a TV in here and will use it for reading instead. I suggest making a sitting area near the back windows because it lets in so much natural light. It will be a perfect place to read during the day without having to depend on lamps as much. And, it creates its own space that does not depend on the red or sea foam color influence. For a back of the room reading area, I would: 1. Define the space with a rug. I'd go for something neutral that blends more with the room instead of using the rugs you chose that are such an intense contrast. What about jute with a dark grey binding for texture, or a trellis pattern but not as contrasting as the navy and white you chose? 2. Get an upholstered cushion made for the built in bench under the window. Such a great reading nook, looks maybe big enough for two to snuggle and read! Nice soft window treatment, and maybe sconces or art hung on either side of the window. Toss your current sofa pillows over there to start to give you an idea of that as soft hang out space. 3. I like the idea of putting the sofa in front of the window with a coffee table in the middle and two grey Pottery Barn chairs across from it, facing the sofa. The only problem is that your sofa is pretty high in the back and I don't know how it would look to have it cutting off the bottom of the windows. It is free to move around furniture so give it a try! 4. Going with more neutral colors - tan, grey, beige, maybe a hint of navy and pops of rust means you should throw in some texture to the equation. That can come from a jute rug, fluffy blankets, and shiny objects. (Mercury glass objects?) Plus maybe a coffee table that has some texture of reflective quality. Here are some ideas for the back reading space: Rute rug, gray border Patterned rugs that have grey and other colors Examples of living room window seats: For the middle and front space, I have a few different ideas, but would like to hear more about what you need as a function of this room. Do you have any furniture you own and are looking for a different space to house it in? Do you need more storage for any particular kind of item? (Boots, purses, backpacks?) Do you have a home office or need space for that kind of work?

I never cut anything back until the spring. I live in zone 4 and we have very cold weather and snow. Leaving the dead flower stalks and plants catches the snow and piles it around the plant. That helps protect the roots. If I cut them back the wind would whiz the snow across my flower beds and pile it where it does no good for my plants. This works for all plants that die back in winter. I wait until my plants start to show new growth and then begin my cleanup