A few seeds will hardly be enough for even a taste. Water lightly like most any normal houseplant. They do like sun, but not too much heat. You will see the first set of flat leaves that look a bit like parsley at about 3-4 inches tall. After that, they will send up some thinner and taller leaves and then bolt to grow flower stalks. At that point the plants can be at least 2-3 feet tall. You cannot harvest more than one time as there are not a continous amount of flat leaves from each seed.

Thanks for the reply...by few seeds i meant a handful. Do you think I should put more seeds now for regular and continous growth??
I had done this earlier as well just to try out...but the plant died after germenating like a few centimeter tall. I do not want this to happen....what can i do to prevent this.
ksrogers...from your ealier posts I gather that you have an excellent experience in gardening...
Please help me ...
this will boost my courage to grow other herbs and vegetables.
One stupid question what does Bolting means???

Bolting means that a plant is headed fast into a flower and seed direction. Most all plants that bolt at some point do so once they are mature and have grown regular shaped leaves. Similar to dill. The dill leaves are nice and fern like, and once it bolts, these tend to die out (yellow) and then send up a stiffer stalk that will open into a spray of tiny blossoms, which get pollinated by many tiny inects, then seeds form. When you are buying seeds that are collected from flowering plants, and you want to harvest just the leaves, you would look for slow bolting seeds. Cilantro/corinader is one type as is dill and several other herbs. Even basil will have flower stalks and if these are pinched off the plant might produce more side branches, but will also increase the flowering end tips, requiring even more blossom removal. I wouldn't really use a pot of soil that had some other kind of plant in it. You can never know how that was grown before, if they used strong fertilizers or some means to make poinsettia get red faster, like a hormone. A good clean sterile seed starting medium is mich better to use, as it offers no odd additives that can affect taste, especially for a very volitile cilantro. Reusing old soil can also have diseases just waiting to attack, like damping off which kills plants at the place where they emerge from the soil. Overwatering is usually the biggest issue for young plants. I use heat mats and clear plastic covers over my trays until the leaves of teh sprouting plants touch the clear plastic. Then I remove the domes and turn off the heat under the trays. The plant lights are on 18 hours per day, on a timer.

Been growing everything I can think of for many years, and always start some of my plants from seeds I plant in small pots. I have a room set aside with heat mats and grow lights, as well as trays that hold anywhere from 32 plants to over 100 plants per tray. Also, once my seeds are started in April, but mid May they all go outside into my small greenhouse where they harden off (get used to direct sunlight). My many lettuce types last summer were going until we had a frost, as were my broccoli plants. Had a big bunch of seedless watermelons, a fig tree, 5 apple trees, 3 Asian pear trees, cherries, asparagus, 26 blueberry bushes my dad planted many years ago, horsradish, raspberries, garlic (Music), chives, and some other oddities like honey berries, and a tiny peach tree only 2 feet tall that yields full sized peaches, and quince. Then, my recent purchase of a pluot grafted tree with several types, which needs to be planted once our soil has thawed enough to dig into. I even have some very hardy thyme I started from seeds two years ago, and its outdoors all winter, where I can cut what I want when I need some. My chives are actually wild onions and grow only through fall to spring, then die back in summer to form a small ball of bulbs in a marble sized cluster. Things like dill and cilantro don't do well if they get transplanted, either into larger pots or outdoors. Usually its always a good idea to read the seed packets to see if they are suitable for starting indoors, or must be planted outside. One time I was curious about corn. Put a single corn kernal in an 8 inch pot. It started to sprout within 7 days, and after 2 weeks had huge fat roots coming out the bottom holes already. Thats obviosuly not something that should he started in pots, as well as carrots, radishes, and several other root crops.

wow I am so jealous...my god I have never seen so many things growing in my whole life.I thankyou so much for sharing this.
As I mentioned earlier I live in seattle and We just moved in this big house that has a side yard. Fortunately the yard is in the south side of the house and I plan to make it my kitchen garden. But I have never grown anything till now.So this will be my starting point.
This is reason why I want to start with small plants that I can grow in pots.I agree with you that I shudnt have used soil from the other plant but I just wanted to give it a try.So now which soil can i buy from stores like Fred Meyer and home depot.??
second now how should I proceed with the corainder plant. Should I spary it with something that will help it survive?
Should I sprinkle more seeds for a regular growth???
I water it very sparingly only when I see it is needed.
Thanks a lot

The biggest issue is fungus gnats. Tiny black flies that love to live indoors or out and infest every single plant even if its in a pot. They are smaller than fruit flies. Outdoors, I use a form of Bt and also benefical nematodes as I used to get a LOT of these fungus gnats, they even get inside the leaf layers of brussles sprouts, which are not good eating when you see tiny back flies in the cooking water. Indoors, when I start seeds, I use a mix of seed starting soils, like Natural Beginnings from Gardens Alive, as well as a Jiffy mix that is sold by the bag through sevral web sites, and even shreaded coconut husk fibers called coir. These are all quite 'clean' and have little to no real soil in them. They help hold just the right amount of moisture too. The fungus gnats usually come from outdoor soils, lay eggs in the soil that turn into tiny maggots and these feed off the tender roots of any plants. Thats one reason you see house plants suddenly dieing for no apparent reason. To check indoor plants, I use yellow sticky traps that rest horizontally on the edges of the pots. After just a couple of days, these traps can become loaded with tiny black gnats! Outside is where I use a form of Bt and also water in the beneficial nematodes that live in soil and go after the fungus maggots. My garden soil here isn't perfect, but if I can reduce harmful bugs from killing plants, its a big help. I use scent lures and sticky traps for my apples, peaches, and even cucumbers. Each sticky trap has a scent lure that attracts the pests common to these plants. Some plants and trees are highly resistant to diseases and bugs. Asian pears, asparagus, and blueberries to name a few. It may be better to head to a nursery/garden shop, as Home Depot and Lowes tend to offer a very limited amount of organic supplies. Here, we have only a very few products that are organic and most are for bugs (Neem) and disease control (Serende). The bags of soil offered by Miracle Grow tend to be a bit harsh as they simply use chemical equivilents to the real soil nutrients. I have a small leanto shed that stores corn gluten, fish meal, humate, kelp meal, and a few others. I use these as natural nitrogen additives, or in the case of humate, many minerals and micro nutrients. If you do plan to spray for any bugs that might be feeding on the leaves, try Neem. I wouldnt spray any herbs with anything unless the bugs are chewing holes in the leaves however. Bt, is a liquid mixed with water and has several different strains, of which one is for the gnat control. Ever hear of squash vine borers? These bugs bore into the base of squash vines and destroy the insides which cause the plants to quickly die. I have used another form of Bt and actually injected it into the main stems of squash plants, by using an insulin syringe. The Bt attacks the borers and kills them. Imagine a garden thats a living thing like us, it just can't survive all by itself if you want good yields and quality crops. I have only 2000 sq. feet of garden space, and there is also areas all around the edges of my garden that have fruit trees, or some permanent plants like asparagus and horse radish, which I harvest every spring. For your pot of cilantro, add some seeds every 2-3 weeks, so they can give you more than 1 or 2 harvests. Only thing is, if they are clumped together, they are hard to seperate if there are two stages of growth within each other. Indoors, I start about 60 petunia plants, 60 or so impatien plants, peppers, tomatos, basil, and a few others about mid April. This year, seedless watermelons with a necessary pollinator, as well as a few cantaloupe types. Brussels sprouts again too, but will be covered with a light weight white plastic fabric to block out the bugs, then my big batch of corn, which I plant every other year. I have a small tractor and a big rototiller to turn the soil over every spring, and work in any soil ammendments needed.

Here is a link that might be useful: Natural Beginnings

How does the corriander leaves look when they have just germinated?? Mine are like two leaves each branch(if i can call it).
and they are not in shape of the coriander. They are just two oval kind of shape. Is this what i will have or they will take the shape later on??? I am so curious to know.
ksrogers I am going to sprinkle some more seeds on it. I am still seeing new sprouts!!
I am so excited!!!

The first leaves of sprouting seeds are not usually the same as the first 'true leaves'. These primary leaves are always quite different as they are what most every seed will send up first. Same holds true with peppers, tomatoes, dill and many others. The first leaves are good to monitor as if they strat to turn yellow early on, it may indicate too much watering. The true leaves will come from the center of the stems, and Coriander usually as no branches until its bolted. Seeds can take a week or more to all sprout at once. Its got to do with soil contact, moisture and how active that little seed is inside.

You are right ksrogers...i see the black flies...oh my god ...
where will i get this Bt liquid???
Also if i dont buy the miracle gro potting mix that is there in costco then what am i suppose to buy...i need to change the soil in my yard....so i need something sooon or the weather will turn against me ..
by the way i have started to notice some corainder shaped leaves and i am so excited!!!

Ahhh I have a fungus gnat problem too...probably came from a bad batch of soil, or perhaps the gnats colonized the bag of peat I have laying around in the garage. Will duck tape or sticky tape be an effective method?

Also, where or how do I store my potting mixes and such so they don't get infected?

Mircacle Grow is mostly harsh chemicals and isn't well suited for any organic gardening applications. There are a couple of strains of Bt. The link here is for the type for controlling leaf eating bugs and caterpillers.
http://www.bestnest.com/bestnest/RTProduct.asp?SKU=BOP-803&src=shopzilla&kw=BOP-803
Info:
http://www.ghorganics.com/BTI_For_Fungus_Gnats.htm

There is also a beneficial nematode thats watered into the garden soil and these microscopic worms attac k the funngus gnat maggots that feed on roots. The Bt product only kills the maggots not the flies,-.

Ive used an expensive liquid product called Gnatrol, but its about $90 a gallon!

Here is a link that might be useful: Beneficial nematodes