Knuttle, can't answer your question confidently, except to say that I'm sure there are regulations on it if there was any way possible for the water to back siphon into the public water supply. Lucky for me, my well isn't on public water supply, or even used for my residence! Just to water plants and fill the pond. I ordered a Hudson Fill Valve. I'm sure that once it comes in I can figure out how to install it - but live out of town and would like to have the supplies on hand before the weekend. What kind of connections would I need to install into a 3/4" water line? How to position it in the pond to make sure water is at the level I want it? Is there any site with step by step instructions, with pictures, on how to install? I googled but couldn't find anything that wasn't way generic.

Check your individual sprinkler heads for radius adjust control... otherwise, check to see if your automatic valve has a flow control adjust screw on it. (Standard Valves should not be used to regulate flow unless they are dsigned for that purpose) If not, consider installing a valve that incorporates this feature. You could also invistigate installing a line pressure reducer.

Keep in mind that there really are only two major players in the irrigation business, Hunter & Rainbird. There are several others that compete heavily for 3rd through 7th including (but not in any specific order): Toro, Weathermatic, Irritrol, VirtualRain & Nelson. If you stick to one of the above companies listed, your odds improve that you will be happy with your product and it will perform the function that it was purchased for. In fact we are installing a temporary system tomorrow for a gentleman using the Hunter battery powered controllers while his home is being constructed. For what ever reason, he put a lot of landscaping in prior to construction on the house. Curtis Here is a link that might be useful: EvergreenSprinklers.com

Hello Jeff ... "Is there a way to reduce the water hammer phenomenon from occuring? " It sounds like your water hammer is being caused by empty irrigation lines that are filling to rapidly with water. In this case you would need to control the water flow into the lines with a flow control valve or prevent the lines from emptying after it's control valve shuts off. Water could be draining from a low lying head on your system or from automatic drain valves that may be installed on your system to prevent freezing. A first option to consider is to install one or more heads that feature a built in check valve to prevent water from draining out of the irrigation lateral lines. A flow control valve can be installed "after" each electric valve to allow the water to enter the lines at a rate equal to the flow requirements of the zone but not to fast to cause water hammer. Two flow control valves installed in series will cause a double pressure loss. It is also useful in some cases to place flow control valves on different branches of the same zone since the pressure loss will only effect the section after that flow control valve and not the entire system. Is each zone causing water hammer and to the same extent ?? I do assume you mean you have water hammer after each valve is turned on automatically ?? Do you have a pump or city water ?? "I really would rather not have my water pressure reduced in fearing that the system may not run optimally." Well at this point your system is not running optimally since water hammer can cause damage to your pipes and valves .. so you need to do something .. flow control valves will have a pressure loss rating provided by the supplier ... so my advice .. replace fear with knowledge .. find out what the pressure loss for each flow control valve is and deduct this from your current operating pressure and see if it is workable. A good installer will work this out with you. It is by the way his responsibility to correct the problem NOT yours. Good Day ...