It also sounds like there may be an obstruction limiting the amount of water the 4" pipe is abble to move. You might try running a garden house through that crinkle pipe to see if something is blocking it. Does the crick pipe go out to dayligh or to an underground absorption system?

It always amazes me when newbies, having never attempted a given task before, insist upon 'reinventing the wheel' -- as if experienced professionals have not learned to use proven methods. Why in the world would you choose an inappropriate material such as solid PVC pipe sections that require gluing? ...and 6-inch pipe, no less! YIKES! What are you draining? A lake? I would really encourage you to consider ways of retaining the water on your property long enough to allow it to infiltrate. There are many ways to do this; a number of which were mentioned by Laag: "or leaching it out in drywells, leach pits, or leaching trenches". There are other methods as well; perhaps a rain garden or taking other steps to improve permeability. As responsible citizens, we need to begin to assume responsibility for the storm water that we generate from our own impenetrable surfaces (roofs, driveways, patios, etc.). Out of sight - Out of mind is simply not a responsible ploy. Rapidly dumping your water off site simply forces someone else (or a governmental body) to deal with it. This common practice has to stop. As the old saying goes: If you are not part of the solution, you are part of the problem. Think about it: With all of the dire water shortages Georgia has been dealing with the last few years, here you are getting rid of this precious resource as fast as you can. Am I missing something here? IronBelly

You could try burying PVC with holes drilled in it, but you will want to have extremely small holes. Over time, the plant roots will still grow into the pipe and tend to clog the holes, though the roots will get water inside the pipe. A water permeable covering would be necessary to keep the roots out. With a 3 foot wide bed, you would likely need to run 2 lines down each bed, 1 foot in from each side. Otherwise the water may not get to the outside of the bed very easily. The pipes Albert saw in Utah & Wyo. are called gated pipe and are made of PVC, also. They typically range in size from 6" diameter up to about 12" and have retangular holes about 1 1/4" high and 2 1/2" long every 20-30 inches which have sliding gates in them to allow you to open or close the gates. They are easy to use and regulate and conserve water since it doesn't soak into the ground while getting to the field, but they also need fairly trash free water or the gates will get plugged and stop flowing. The water sources are usually surface water from rivers or reservoirs delivered in canals. To use gated pipe in your garden, if you have a large enough supply of water, you would lay the pipe across the top of the garden, then run the water down water marks or furrows where it would soak in (flood irrigation with furrows). Depending on how loose and absorbant your soil is, it can take anywhere from several hours up to 24 hours to get the ground soaked up. You also have to be able to deal with waste water coming out the bottom as it is very hard to regulate the flow to get it to the bottom of the garden without flowing out. You could lay out 1" PVC lines and put connections and valves in periodically, then connect these to sprinklers. If you don't want to use sprinklers (I don't after the plants are up--they sprinkle everything, including the ground that isn't planted and that doesn't need watering, plus they encourage disease by wetting the leaves and keeping the humidity up), you might consider laying drip tape on the surface, with the emitters down, and connect that to your water source, maybe even covering the tape and soil with black plastic or some other mulch so you can take it up in the fall and to help reduce evaporation from the soil. When using drip tape or similar devices with very small holes, you need to use very clean water--ditch water should be settled and filtered to get all but the finest particles out, and periodically you should inject acid into the water, such as dilute sulphuric or phosporic acid for a short time to remove the lime that builds up. You can inject all your fertilizers into the water to fertilize that way if you want. Whatever you do, the more easy, water saving, time saving= higher cost. You'll have to decide where to make the trade-off. With flood irrigation you will use more water to irrigate, but water less often, not more often than once a week, maybe every 2 weeks if the weather is damp or cool. With drip lines, you can water as thoroughly and infrequently, but your garden will do better if you irrigate quite frequently, even every day, supplying just a small amount of water to keep the ground moist but not wet all the time. With the frequent waterings, the plants never get too wet or too dry as they do with flood irrigation. I used soaker hoses for several years on a flower bed and they worked great, although by the end of the first season they no longer seeped water, the minerals had completely closed them up. The next year I drilled very small holes, using maybe a 3/32 inch drill, about every foot, and that worked for the year. Just had to regulate the water supply so it didn't come out of the hose under much pressure. Each year I had to re-drill the holes, though, as they would be closed up again.

The preferred method is to run the line through the wall and discharge outside the structure. When discharging outside the structure the point of discharge must be at a clearly visible location and may not be obstructed by shrubbery or landscaping materials. When discharging outdoors the discharge end of the pipe MUST BE pointed downward. Under the International Residential Code the point of discharge must be within 6" of the average terrain ground level. Under the Uniform Plumbing Code the point of discharge must be greater than 6" but not more than 24" above average terrain. In a garage or unfinished basement the T&P line may discharge on the floor providing the said floor is equipped with a floor drain. When discharging on a floor the T&P line must extend from the output port of the valve to within 6" of the floor surface and the end of the line must direct the flow downward. When a gas water heater is installed in a basement where a T&P gravity flow drain line cannot be achieved the standard Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve (T&P) valve is to be removed and a WATTS 210 gas shutoff valve installed on the water heater vessel. A Pressure Relief valve is then installed on a hot water line at any convenient point above grade and a discharge line extended outdoors or to an approved indirect waste receptor. The T&P valve may be discharged into the house DWV system providing it is connected by means of an approved "indirect waste receptor" such as a utility sink or floor drain providing the lowest point of the discharge line must remain a minimum of 4 times the discharge line diameter or 2", whichever is greater, above the flood level rim of the receptor. A T&P discharge line SHALL NOT discharge into a water heater drip pan. The T&P discharge line diameter must be equal to or greater than the diameter of the discharge port. If the total developed length of the T&P discharge line exceeds 40 feet, the line size must be increased by one nominal trade size. All horizontal runs of the discharge line must be pitched at 1/4" per foot towards the discharge end. There shall be no traps or valves on the discharge line and the discharge end of the line SHALL NOT be threaded. (If run with galvanized iron pipe the threads must be cut off the end of the line).