Need Raised Bed Watering Solution

10 years ago

Hi,

I've got a dozen raised beds I use for veg. They're about 3' x 12' each. I've tried a 'drip' but I'm planting stuff almost all year round and the crops are spaced differently so it's a PITA to work around the tubes. I've -routinely- sliced into them.

I was wondering if there were some fairly inexpensive sprinkers I could put just in the corners of each bad that would use a narrow but long mist pattern. I've seen things like this at golf courses but I'm sure they're expensive.

Or if there are better options, I'm all ears. The key points are:
---relatively cheap
---something durable that I can't break like these drip things.

Hopefully that's not asking for the moon.

TIA.

---JC
Seattle

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Comments (4)

Molex 7a NYC
10 years ago
I use Ein Dor Mini (dripworks.com) sprinklers in some my raised beds, they work great. I connect them to a 1/2" mainline with valves for each bed, I use two of 5sq/ft sprinklers per 8 foot bed. The coverage is great and spray pattern only waters the soil.
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suntower
Original Author
10 years ago
Thanks. I've never used these before. The prices seem almost =too= cheap (if that's possible) so maybe I'm missing something?

In addition to the sprinklers, what else does one need to make a complete 'system'? I guess there is some sort of mini-tube and then an adapter to a standard hose? Do they offer a complete kit of some sort?

Thanks!
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Thanks everyone for all the responses. Some more details - I have 2 beds 15X3 - about 90 feet from the house. I have 4 white pvc pipes in the beds, the pipe is about 8 inches above the bed. There are 3 holes - every 6 inches. The holes are drilled using #57 Micro Drill Set - it is smaller than 1/16. Each of the pvc pipe has a valve to control the amount of watering - that way i can control the amount of water depending on what i have planted in there. Currently i am running a 100 ft 5/8 inch garden hose (regular hose) - from the water outlet to the beds. There are no holes or leaks in the hose - just in pvc. I think over this weekend - i am going to measure the waterflow - at every stage: 1. water outlet 2. end of the hose 3. end of hose + a valve just to get an idea where it is going south. I like the idea of putting a timer, but then i am going to have timer at the main outlet - so if the main outlet is configured to turn on every other day for 30 mins - then i have to configure the second set of timers at the bed to turn on - one precisely at the same time - and the other at +15 mins... That sounds fairly complicated :) - so i might just run another pipe till there and use the main timer to control and not have 2 more timers at the bed. but i am surprised that there is not enough pressure :) so trying to find an easier way :) really appreciate all the help. I will post my findings around the weekend.
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So much good info.. thanks for sharing all. Here's something that has worked well for me. I run 2 "farmers" drip tapes down my 3ft wide garden boxes. This tape is inexpensive - 6 cents a foot and I throw it away at the end of the season. I've only found it at the local AG center. It is very quick and easy to connect and lies flat and straight without pinning down. These lines attach to a section of regular black irrigation line which is permanently anchored across the width of the box at one end and connected to a hose bib. The connectors (the adjustable type sold for that tape) allow for the exact amount of water needed to that particular line by using a screw driver in a little slot to make the adjustment. So for beds that have established plants and perhaps a row of seedlings one can make the appropriate adjustments for the exact amount of water needed, ie wide open for the seedlings - less for the mature plants. I've set my beds up with timers too and bird (heavier type) netting around the sides (about 24 inches high) attached to round metal stakes (in case of a wandering rabbit or chicken or whatever. I can throw a shade cloth over the whole thing easily too. Also I've found the narrower beds easier on my back to work in by the way. I've tried a number of different drip systems and this is the best I've come up with for this hot dry area. If you try it be sure to have the little holes "up" so that they can dry out between waterings. I'm trying to cover all the bases but there will be something else I'm sure..... Can I go on vacation now please!!!!;)
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I have often found in areas where standing water occurs in the more rainy seasons, that even when water can not be seen standing there, the soil stays overly moist for longer periods of time. Then even in the drier parts of the year, the water table beneath the surface of the virgin soil is also very high. If you check and find these conditions to also exist in the area where you desire to plant the Arborvitae then raising the bed for them is needed. To prevent root rot arborvitae, they should do fine if planted in at least 2 feet of well drained soil which can also remain just moist enough for the shrub's needs. I have a friend who's lot has been grade in such a way for runoff water to flow away from her house and collect in a lower spot in the north side, behind her back yard fence. We created a 3 foot high raised bed with sloping sides there and planted an Oak tree. that bed almost looked like an island in the very wettest times of the year. Last year we planted some 3 gallon pot sized 'Little Giant' arborvitae around the oak, but first we had to raise the sloping edge of the bed around that young oak tree to about 2 feet high. The shrubs have done vary well planted on that raised bed. Today they have grown to be double in size, and for the entire time they have maintained a healthy appearance.
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Molex 7a NYC
10 years ago
i would recommend one of their Heart of the Garden kits, and then purchasing separately the individual emitters of your choosing.

So you need a filter, a psi regulator and 1/2" mainline tubing for a basic system (some kind of metal U hold downs). Then all the 1/4" tubing (soaker or regular) your Ts and Elbows and all sorts of different plugs and adapters running to your various zones.
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toolbelt68
10 years ago
I suggest you use copper pipe hold downs with copper nails for holding down the feed tubing.

Also, instead of having the tubing down next to the ground why not install a wire/cable down the center of the beds about 2 feet above everything. Then tie wrap the feed hose to the wire, install your emitters and stand back... lol

A 1/2 hose feed line with a 20 psi regulator can service at least 200 emitters. (I've heard up to 600) So one timer/filter/regulator should work for your whole setup if you connect the beds together.

Don't forget to install a back flow unit at the head of your feed line as you don't want any water back-flowing into the house water system. It has to be at the highest point in the system.

The end of the feed line should be at the lowest point in your water system so the input line can completely drain.
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Need Raised Bed Watering Solution

Comments (4)

Molex 7a NYC

suntower
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Need Raised Bed Watering Solution

Comments (4)

Molex 7a NYC

suntowerOriginal Author

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suntower
Original Author