Good deal, I sould have warned you NOT to pound too hard, it's possiable to break the ears off of the mounting pads (big problem) so all is well, I use a "dry film lube" when i replace or work on anything thats cose to "dirt" I may be wrong doing that, but thats what I do, theroy being greese/oil attracts dirt

To install tubes in the tires, you'll have to break the side-walls away from the rims. to do this, it can be done with large C-clamps, by tightening the clamp against both side walls, and turning it in until they pull away from the rims. To get it all the way off, lubricate the tire bead and rim with oil or grease, and carefully pry the tire off the rim. After cleaning and priming/ painting the inside of the rim, and its' dry, lube the inner bead of the tire, and force it onto the rim, using a rubber hammer. Now, with the one bead inside the rim, and the other bead not, spread the tire out and stuff the inner tube inside, spreading it out all around the rim. Stick the valve out thru its hole, and tie a string to it. Before installing the tube, you should pump the tube up enough to get the wrinkles out of it, then let the air back out of it!, and install it, as above. Then, after its inside the tire, carefully get the other bead of the tire onto the rim! Be careful the valve doesn't slip into the rim!(The string) Now, pump the tire up to seat it on the rim, watching that no part of the tube is caught between tire and rim! Then leave the air back out until it has gone down well. Using the rubber hammer, pound on the tire so any wrinkles in the tube will be gone, then reinflate it, and you should be good to go! (With the rim off the machine, we used to bounce it on the pavement) All of the preceding is a tried and perfected method of replacing tires and tubes, as taught to me by The Gulf Oil company service station schools, way back in 1946! We had no fancy tire repair machines, nor tubeless tires, no Flat-fix, Slime, nothing except hard work! HTH: Rustyj

tiller John, I tried it my self: I figure the shaft with the O-rings has to be removed first. I drove the spiral pin out of the eccentric lever on the outside of the casing. My wheel puller would not budge the lever, so I wedged a sharp angled, yet very wide and flat chisel between the casing and lever and it slipped off. The shaft with the square piece of steel on the end and O-rings now exited toward the inside of the trans casing. Now I was able to get the clutch fork shaft off by first unscrewing the pipe plug located just below the eccentric shaft on the outside of the casing. The clutch fork shaft is a smaller diameter that the threads so it simply exits to the ouside of the casing. You may have to grab the shift fork and angle it slightly so as to get a grab on the slippery shaft that it slides on and you will be able to coax it through the threaded hole that the pipe plug had occupied toward the outside of the casing. It exits throught the casing wall to the outside of the casing.

If it's like my 6hp Horse, there is a slotted nut with a roll pin driven through it, right where the hi/lo lever pivots. remove the pin and tighten the nut to the next notch and try it there.