"I do not think it is a good idea to use carb cleaner all the time, because it can chemically attack plastic parts, o-rings, and rubber hoses". I had 34 year old 3 1/2 hp tiller that I bet I cleaned the carb. 30 times, plus the tank, and head. Never once did I ever replace a gasket, not even the head gasket. What do you think in the liquid your pouring in? I guessing airsol or liquid all the same chemicals. IMO airsol is better because it evaporates very quickly. I buy gum-out like beerbellies by beer, if it hurt any seals none of my equipment would run. I wish I could just plug a can in like propane and just run if off that, disconnect when your done? think about it never have to clean or worry about stale fuel setting in the fuel system. I don't know why small equipment not being ran off those little green jug of propane anyway. Could have 40 lb bottle to recharge all the little green ones???????

To northga, I found this post purely by accident. I thought I would give my 2 cents worth anyway. Do not bother with a larger hose ( if you need a new hose anyway by all means get the 3/4". Don't bother with the expense of a 1" ). The increase in pressure will be negligable ( unless you have a long run of hose ). Someone answered your post and part of his information stated that in your area it was common to have a 3/4 inch service line and water meter. If true your water venders' engineers need an education, 3/4 inch is absurd unless you are providing water supply to a camper. In any case it sounds like a plumbing problem ( very common ). Many times ( frankly most of the time ) pipe and fitting sizes are just to small ( even if 'up to code' )and create velocities that are to high, thus a more than reasonable pressure drop. I would love to sell you a booster pump, but that will not solve the problem ( considering the information you have provided). The first thing to due is to confirm the size of your service line and water meter ( if 3/4" you are out of luck ). Your water vender should be able to provide you this information. Second, locate your water meter. There will be some type of isolation valve(s)( shut-off valve(s) ). Be sure the valves are fully open ( you would be surprised how often they are not ). Next locate your pressure regulating valve ( yes you do have one ), if there are isolation valves here as well be sure they are fully open. I'm sure you have the same[pressure]problem inside the home when several demands are made on the supply ( this occurs in most every home due to small pipe sizes ).[ If the plumbing were sized and piped correctly your shower would not be affected by a toilet flushing. ] I am getting long here... A booster pump ( or any increase in pressure ) will not by itself provide an increase in flow ( gpm ). Flow is determined by what the plumbing (size) can provide within acceptable losses and by the demand on said plumbing. If you are demanding 20 gpm ( sprinklers, showers, dishwasher, etc ) all at the same time and your plumbing can only provide 12 gpm ( at 5 feet per second velocity ) you will give up the pressure that's available. There are many things you can do, even if your water meter is to small ( including but not limited to installing a booster pump ), however any "fixes" will result in increased flow and pressure for the sprinkler(s) and reduced flow and pressure in the home ( all things being equal ), short of installing a second service line and water meter. If there is a hose bib available upstream ( prior to ) of entering the house then do use this connection ( see "fixes" above ), this alone may provide you with the what [pressure] you are looking for. The bottom line is consider doing your outside watering during a time when houshold water consumption is not an issue. Hell, I've got to get back to work hope this has been some help. MChristensen, Technical Consultant Booster Pump Tech Here is a link that might be useful: GardenWeb

Fans help to keep insect populations down, can eliminate or ameliorate the effects of passive solar (heat) gain that occurs when a plant's leaves act as a passive solar collector and over-heat, which occurs much more frequently than sunburn. Air movement also speeds up the nutrient stream and causes an increase in evapotransporation, which means it increases the plant's nutrient load - generally a good thing because it increases both additive and multiplicative growth. Additive growth = lengthening and thickening, multiplicative growth = more leaves, branches, and roots. Air movement also helps the plant retain growth inside the canopy outline (for trees) and increases the potential for back-budding. I have 2 - 4 x 8 grow tables under lights in my basement, and I have 3 fans running 24-7 from mid-Sep until around end of May. Al

I have an AquaPlus ProLogic pool control panel and a GVA-24 valve actuator. Both HAYWARD products The actuator is attached to the three way valve between the pump, the Aquanaut cleaner and the skimmer basket. The pool was built before I bought this house, so I don't know which of the two paths the pool drain uses to get to the pump. picture attached Before the actuator I had to move the valve manually between the skimmer and the cleaner depending on where the dirt in the pool was - sometimes I left the valve part way between the two. But the position the valve is in dictates what pump speed I can use - if the cleaner is closed off I can run the pump ~3500 rpm for maximum skimming action. If the valve is opened to the cleaner 100% (skimmer shut off) the pump can't run faster than ~1800 rpm or the cleaner speed is too high and it climbs out of the water. With the actuator on the valve, controlled by the panel, the valve now oscillates between the two positions about every 30 mins; skimmer, cleaner, skimmer, etc. So I still can't run the pump faster than 1800 rpm, unless I manually set the actuator switch to stay on skimmer only (and then manually run the pump at a higher speed) I paid $2000 for this "automation" and I feel like I'm not getting what I paid for. What I want, is for the pump speed to change according to which position the valve is in - high speed for skimmer, low speed for cleaner. Or, for the controller filter time program to allow time at low speed and keep the valve on cleaner position, followed by time at high speed in skimmer position. In the same 24 hour period if possible, but having it on different days would still be an improvement. Is this possible on my control panel, or is there another piece of hardware I need? I've read the manual so I suspect the answer will be no, so here are 2 follow up questions (which just occurred to me as I'm writing this) 1. The cleaner is a Hayward Aquanaut 4 wheel. Is there a flow restrictor available that will keep the cleaner speed low when the pump is at 3500 rpm? 2. Could I achieve the same effect by setting the valve stop position to only open to the cleaner, say, 20-50%, and restrict the flow that way? Thanks in advance