Simplicity Hydrostatic Transmission fluid problem 16LTH
armstrr
14 years ago
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mownie
14 years agoarmstrr
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Hydrostatic transmission problem
Comments (2)Sounds like a problem with the oil level combined with a possible viscosity problem. Maybe the thick cold oil works at first but doesn't flow back quick enough in the reservoir where it's picked up by the pump causing the pump to suck some air. As the oil warms it flows better and all is well. I'm guessing but it makes sense. So maybe adding some fluid or better yet replacing the fluid. After all if it's never been changed it's 17 years old. Be sure to use the fluid Simplicity recommends....See MoreLTH 130 hydrostatic problem
Comments (28)You CAN change the oil in a "sealed" transaxle. I did mine on my John Deere LT155 (which sports a Tuff Torq transaxle.) I wasn't having problems, but the tractor was approaching 300 hours of use and I wanted to change it. I'm glad I did, as it was looking pretty tired! Since these units don't have drain plugs, you will need to remove the transaxle, wash it off, remove the fill cap and turn the unit upside down to get the old oil out. Take notice of how much oil comes out so you can replace with the correct amount of fresh oil. (Mine took 2 quarts) If you're doing this yourself, use a digital camera to take pictures of the way the belts are routed, and to keep track of any linkage/wiring you have to remove along the way. It will help when you go to put it all back together again. My axle called for 10w-30. I used Mobil 1 15w-50 extended performance, and it's been working great going on the second summer after the change. It sounds like a scary job, but I was able to do it in a few hours taking my time. With what a new transaxle costs, I'd give the oil change a shot before buying a new one. A few other thoughts--make sure that the belts are routed and tensioned properly, that the little fan on top of the transaxle doesn't have any broken fins....See MoreCan I use regular Hydraulic fluid for my gt235 transmission?
Comments (9)I have a 2001 GT235 with the K71 transmission, and here's what the manual says: "Use John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD (J20D) transmission oil to reduce transmission noise. This machine is equipped with an internal wet disc brake transmission. Use only Low Viscosity HY-GARD (J20D) transmission oil. Do not use type "F" automatic transmission fluid. John Deere Low Viscosity HY_GARD (J20D) transmission oil is specially formulated to provide maximum protection against mechanical wear, corrosion, and foaming. It may be used in all operating temperatures." I don't know enough about oils to say whether there is an appropriate substitute. I looked on the bottle of Hy-Gard I have, and it doesn't say anything about any standards (like you would see with motor oil such as "SJ"). If it did, then it would be easy to figure out if there was a good substitute. Sounds like JD black magic to me - a magical way to make sure you buy their high dollar tranny fluid. Under federal law, a manufacturer cannot require you to use their oil, etc. to maintain your warranty unless they provide it free of charge. Chances are if you bought some Cub Cadet or Sears low viscosity tranny fluid, it would be fine since they use TuffTorq trannies in some of their models also. But who knows. If it was me, I'd wait until I could get to the JD dealer and buy some Hy-Gard so I'd sleep better at night....See MoreSpicer / Dana Hydrostatic transaxle problem
Comments (12)I understand the frustrations of trying to "raise the dead" so to speak. I admire that you want to turn out a good machine for the next guy. The multi weight oils are actually best for hydro applications (just as they are for engine applications). What we refer as "weight" of oil is actually a "viscosity index". The nickname "weight" came about due to the popular layman's use of "light" to describe thin or very fluid oils, and "heavy" to describe thick or "viscous" oils. Now some 100 odd years later, we sill use "weight" as referring to viscosity. Straight weight, or single weight oils are thicker when cold (more viscous) and thin out when hot (less viscous). Same holds true for multi-weight oils, the "special property" of multi-weight oils is their ability to maintain a specified "viscosity index" throughout a range of temperatures. Some (actually a lot) of folks still think multi-weight oils have some magical ability to "thin out when cold" and "thicken when hot". That's not what the two reference numbers mean. Take 20 W 50 for example, the "20" means that this blend of oil will thicken as its temperature is reduced, at about the same rate as if it were a "single 20 W" oil. The "50" means that as the temperature of the oil increases, it will thin out at about the same rate as a "single 50 W" oil. Therein is the "magic" of multi-weight oils, they are designed to maintain a specific range of "viscosity index" within a specific temperature range. It is easy to see how the story on multi-weight oil gets twisted. Where have you been searching for your synthetic motor oil? In middle Tn where I live (Hendersonville) I have had the best luck getting 20 W 50 at Pep Boys auto centers. I found it available in several brand names but I settled on the Royal Purple brand because (at that time) there were several members of this forum who gave it high marks. The Hydro-gear tranny in my old White Outdoor GT 185 called for "99.8 oz" of 20 W 40 motor oil. Several members stated that the recommendation for the oil had changed to 20 W 50, so that's what I bought and put in. I remember that I could only pour about 90 oz or so in and the oil was up to the "full level check hole"....See Morenjdpo
14 years agomownie
14 years agoarmstrr
14 years agoootz
14 years agowindcatcher
14 years agoarmstrr
14 years agoootz
14 years agomownie
14 years agoTwisted
7 years ago
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