Oil leak Kohler - unknown source
keepitrunning
15 years ago
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johninmd
15 years agomownie
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Kohler Carb Issue
Comments (10)Start checking small details. Use a good light source and a magnifying glass to check the O-ring groove for small pits (commonly due to corrosion). I have saved similar carbs from the going to the scrap heap by restoring a smooth "floor" to the groove using JB Weld and have instructions for that procedure if you want or need to try. Another thing that might have occurred is that the bowl may have "caved in" a bit (at the mounting screw location) and is not now compressing the O-ring enough to affect a tight seal. If this seems to be the case you can "straighten" the dimple by placing the bowl on a flat surface and gently striking the interior of the bowl bottom with a bar shaped drift the same diameter as the "footprint" of the bowl mounting screw head. It is very hard to actually tell precisely WHERE the leak is occurring because gasoline is transparent until enough of it collects to form a "tear drop". A method for pinpointing leaks of motor oil or fuel that I learned working at a motorcycle shop is to clean off all traces of the leaked liquid using strong detergent or solvent and then dry the surfaces thoroughly. Then spray the entire suspected area with any brand of aerosol deodorant that uses a "talcum powder" formula. The white talcum powder will darken at the spot that is leaking as soon as any liquid touches it. The change of color is less obvious if gasoline is the liquid, so you have to observe carefully, and in the case of this carb, you may need to use a small inspection mirror to see all points around the edge of bowl. Spray the powder well above the bowl base so you will be able to see if the leak is coming from a defect that is higher up on the carb than the edge of the bowl. Also, the Kohler service manual illustrates and instructs to check the clearance between the float body and the float "hinge towers". Says there must be a minimum of .010" clearance between float and towers using a feeler gauge to measure. Any rubbing of float to the tower could cause the float to push on the needle with too little pressure to affect a tight seal, regardless of the condition of the needle and seat. Good luck!...See MoreTroubles with Kohler Courage 23 HP Twin
Comments (36)Shusby: With all the work and replacement components go a few bucks further and do what I recommend numerous other do. 1st never use starting fluid via the carb venturi , if required only through the spark plug hole and only a short blast. Ether based starting fluids may dry and damage carb seals o-rings and gaskets and diaphrams within the carb. Use only carb cleaners for carburator starting spray use. Also drain out your old fuel by draining from the fuel line , do not tip over the mower to drain , you may drain crankcase oil into the breather housing and into the carb . Once drained add some carb cleaner & dry gas combination in case you have moisture within the fuel system. Let the new fuel and fuel treatment sit for about 30 minutes minimum. Then try the starting sequence via Carb cleaner sprayed within the carb venturi (throat) . Once started (may take a few tries) keep engine running until it will idle . This has been successful 90 % of the time . If not the carb jets will require removal and carb spray and compressed air may be needed to further remove dirt , debris within the carb circuits. Good Luck and let us know how you make out . I always try the KISS approach when gas starvation is indicated . Rather than throwing Time and $$$ at engine and component tear downs and Parts replacements that are not warranted....See MoreKohler 16hp Command Engine Nagging Won't Start on Simplicity
Comments (40)Update....the engine is running!!! My son and I had faced a setback earlier in the week when one of the head bolts sheared after the second round of torquing to 36 ft-lbs. That was a bummer, but a couple days later we got the bolt out with an easyout. We put all the parts of the rider back together (with a new needle/beam torque wrench) and fired it up with some carb cleaner, and it started up fairly quickly!!! As expected, we did have the smoking of burning off of oil, but after 20 minutes or so, that seem to diminish to nothing. Seem to have a little bit of burning oil smell still, but I am hoping that is just some residual oil burning off the frame or muffler shields - those parts around the muffler seem to get very hot. Only remaining issue was a backfire after turning it off. It happened half the time after shutting it down, even when I would let it idle for 15 seconds before turning it off. But I can probably live with the backfiring. I would welcome any input on this problem, but I can do some research on the internet about this seemingly separate issue. Thanks so much for walking my son and I through our first fix of this magnitude....usually we only fix fuel problems. It was a really satisfying experience, and I am really grateful for your advice along the way....I was truly amazed. Again, thanks so much....See Moregas in oil,
Comments (4)Well, it would be difficult to give a definite answer to the question of: "With the oil drained and the gas tank half full will gas continue to flow past the rings and be enough to be obvious when I open it tomorrow?". Reason for the uncertainty of an answer is that the rate at which the gasoline leaks past the "float needle valve" is unknown and the length of time your machine was parked between your latest using (when it stalled and you drained the oil) and the previous using before that. If the needle valve is leaking (or WAS leaking), it might be doing it at a rate slow enough that you won't be able to detect it simply with a "one day's leak test". The BEST way to evaluate the sealing efficiency of a needle valve & seat is to check it with a pressure/vacuum hand pump (Mity-Vac is one brand) to "see" if it will retain vacuum and/or pressure. Another thing to consider about leakage of a needle valve & seat is that the leakage per se (while installed on the machine) DOES NOT indicate a defective NEEDLE VALVE & SEAT. If the float is of the "hollow" type (either brass or plastic), and has failed (partially filled up with gasoline) it will not push the needle against the seat firmly enough to stop the flow of fuel. Another variable detail is that occasionally a solid particle of debris (could be a minute piece of fuel hose) may get caught under the needle valve, allowing fuel to seep past. The offending piece of trash can later be swept loose and be passed right on through the main jet and be carried out of the carb altogether. You never stated if the engine began running poorly or putting black smoke out the exhaust just before it stalled (and I can understand that you might not have paid attention to the exhaust output at the time) or if it just quit like turning off the key. The fact that you can turn the crankshaft by hand is good at this point....See Morenjdpo
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