Not sure if my Rose bush is dead or not
sunflowersrus222
10 years ago
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kingcobbtx7b
10 years agojerijen
10 years agoRelated Discussions
not sure how to prune this rose bush (see photo)
Comments (8)I'm not sure what zone NYC is (maybe zone 7?) but I think it is too early to prune yet. A very general basic rule of thumb is to start pruning when the forsythias bloom in your area. Usually that means that temperatures are right for the roses to start growing and it's time to prune. I tried to do the arrows picture but it was very hard to tell from your photos what was good and what wasn't so here is my Basic Pruning Primer Take off any dead wood. Any cane that is black or very dark brown is probably dead wood. Canes that are green but have a very black or dark brown streak running down the side are probably going to die soon so take them off to below the streak. However, as some canes age they can get a darker brown barky look to them and still be living wood. You can tell dead wood by looking at the center part of the cane called the pith. Start at the tip of any cane and cut off a piece about 2 inches long. Look at the center. If it is a greenish white or cream the cane is alive. If it is brown or a dark tan it is dead wood. You can easily tell the difference. The whiter center will look moist and the dark center will be dry looking. Keep cutting down the cane in small pieces until you reach cane that has a clear whitish moist center. The cane from that point down should be healthy. Once you've removed all the dead wood you can prune for shape and size if you wish. It's a good idea to take out one of any canes that cross or rub each other. Rubbing will cause damage and you could lose both canes so take one out. Take out any spindly canes with a diameter of less than a pencil. You have a lot of that spindly.twiggy side growth on your bush. Also take out any canes that grow directly into the center of the bush. You want to open up the center for good air flow. That allows the center to get more light and to dry quicker to help prevent fungal diseases. Since your bush doesn't appear to be very large you may want to hold off on thinning it too much right away though. I am not at all familiar with the method that Campanula described for getting it to put out a new cane at the bottom (basal growth) but Camp knows her stuff so I'm sure it's good advise. I was going to suggest that if possible you repot it deeper to encourage more growth. You can also then straighten it up in the pot some so you don't have to stake and tie it like that. My worry is that eventually that string is going to strangle the rose and kill it. It's wrapped very tightly around that one main cane. If it girdles the bark completely everything from there up will die. Most of all don't be afraid to make mistakes. For the most part you can't really kill a rose by pruning it. Usually it just grows back even better. And for another thing, we've all made mistakes and still do sometimes when pruning a rose. I experience that sick feeling of "OOPS, I shouldn't have cut that" usually at least once every pruning season, lol! Mistakes are how we learn sometimes and, like I said, roses are very forgiving. I know there are several rose societies in NY and I'm sure if you contact one of them they would be very happy to help you out. Or you can go on the American Rose Society web site and find a consulting rosarian for your area that you can contact. When I did that for my area the guy came right over to my house to help me and we've been good friends ever since! Rose people are really nice and love to share and talk roses with anyone interested, lol! Here is a link that might be useful: The American Rose Society...See MoreWhiteflies = Virus = Dead Rose Bushes
Comments (8)Hibiscus is indeed a prime Grade A host for whitefly, but of course, it's not the only one. We've seen evidence of them on citrus leaves, brugmansias, and they appear to love begonias. But, listen, where did you read that Whitefly spread a virus that kills roses? Look, we live in an area of SoCal which is still largely agricultural -- all sorts of fruits and vegetables are grown here, and for years we have all battled massive whitefly incursions, because there was so much spraying going on. Of more recent years, the farmers have cut down on use of broad-spectrum insecticides, and instead planted "insectaries" around the perimeter of their fields. As this progressed, our whitefly outbreaks have largely disappeared. But when you say you have sprayed several times with different products, I hate to say this but you're making the problem worse, rather than better. If you can bite the bullet and quit spraying with insecticides -- rather spray the plants with water, and encourage predatory insects and birds (hummingbirds looooooove whitefly) you'll see the problem begin to abate. I know. We've been down that road ourselves, so I'm talking about steps we've taken, which have been successful. We haven't seen a whitefly here in years. Jeri in Coastal Ventura Co., SoCal...See MoreNew to roses! My rose is dying on the bush now so where do i cut
Comments (1)You can just snap the spent flower off. I try not to remove leaves from young plants-- they are needed for growth....See MoreMy rose bushes hardly grew into bushes, so puny help.
Comments (8)You made a mistake by cutting them back last fall. In your zone you should not prune your roses in the fall. Wait until spring. The roses store nutrients in the canes and you cut that supply off when you pruned them. That being said, last year was a particularly bad winter and you probably would have lost most of the cane anyway. Nothing you can do about that. We all started out with shorter than normal roses this spring. They'll need time to recuperate and rebuild their structures. Knowing what roses you have will also help us to determine how large and bushy you can expect them to get. Roses can take from 3 to 5 years to fully mature so be patient. As for the puckered leaves we really would need to see a photo of them to be able to diagnose what's going on. Why are you using the Bioneem oil? Do you have a bug infestation? If not then you don't need it. If you do not have a specific insect that you have correctly identified and are using the correct product for that bug, you could be killing off beneficial insects instead. That could set you up for an even worse problem later on. Only use insecticide when you have a bug, know exactly what bug it is and determine the correct insecticide to use for that bug. Not all insecticides work on all bugs. For now I would keep them well watered and fertilize them following the instructions on the fertilizer carefully and be patient....See Moresunflowersrus222
10 years agoroseseek
10 years agojerijen
10 years agoseil zone 6b MI
10 years agohoovb zone 9 sunset 23
10 years agomerlcat
10 years agosunflowersrus222
10 years agodeervssteve
10 years ago
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