Marechal Niel bud drop
daisyincrete Z10? 905feet/275 metres
12 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (13)
jacqueline9CA
12 years agofloridarosez9 Morgan
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Pink Marechal Niel, Stockholm and Claire Rose
Comments (3)The only one I can comment on is Claire Rose. Mine survived the big Easter freeze of '07, but it took it hard. Last year it just started to bloom again, but only a little. It did put on some good growth. I just pruned it today, and it looks promising with plenty of new growth and hopefully plenty of flower buds. The flowers are a pale pink, and prior to the big freeze they were fairly large. I think the David Austin catalog online has pictures of it. Here is a picture of it before that big, bad freeze. I hope this gives you an idea what it looked like, and hopefully my plant will look like this again in the not too distant future....See MoreLa Reine Victoria, mme Bravy & Marechal Neil in an "ice garden"?
Comments (27)mad_gallica is right about Chinas and Teas and other "warm-climate" roses not liking cool Summers -- and this is probably why the old books written in Great Britain bemoan then as "lacking vigor". In reality, they simply didn't get the heat they needed to promote vigorous growth, despite not having to endure Winters as severe as they are here. Where I am, the growing season is warm to hot, humid, and we get ample rain. I lived in Buffalo, NY for three years, and the Summers there were not nearly as hot and humid as all my years on Long Island and my past three years in central NJ. This is why I went with a wide range of rose types when I was shopping for this garden -- I knew that the once-blooming European OGRs would just yawn through Winters here, but I see that they pretty much stop putting out new growth once the temps start hanging in the 90s. I wasn't sure how well Chinas and Teas would do, but was encouraged when I read that Stephen Scanniello grows some both in his Barnegat, NJ garden and in various client gardens in NYC and Long Island. So I went with a few. Yes, they took a beating after Winter, but while most of my other roses languished through Summer, they were invigorated with growth and bloom. Pruning the dead stuff off in Spring left them looking rather like how most people treat Buddleia butterfly bushes, but also like them, they quadruple in size by the end of the growing season. However, if you don't get hot Summers, they may not get what they need to "make up" for what Winter took away from them, and you'll be left with tiny things that are always on the cusp of growing backwards. When Winter comes, the new Teas and Chinas I got which I intend to keep in pots will be going into the garage or my enclosed-but-unheated back porch. Before that time, I'll stop watering them. I'm hoping that keeping them cold and dry after they get smacked into their version of dormancy will keep them from trying to grow again. And they'll be out of the wind. I'll bring them out again in late March or early April, which is about when my other roses start leafing out. Temperatures at that time of year don't go any lower than they do in late Autumn here, and the few Chinas and Teas I have in the ground are still blooming a little then. And those temperatures are much like the lowest reached in zone 9. Keep in mind that this is my first time trying this, so I can't say if my plan is sure to work. If you have an area where you can set up grow-lights, perhaps you can try keeping them there for the Winter. But as was mentioned before, roses don't often do well in typical indoor air. Beyond that, you may want to look at Bourbons and Hybrid Perpetuals and Portlands (aka Damask Perpetuals) if you want to expand into OGRs that repeat-bloom. When I was in Buffalo, I gifted a few to some neighbors, and they got through Winters there with very little dieback. Of course, this will vary with the cultivars -- those with more recent Tea ancestry will be less hardy. Another bit of advice when looking up roses on HelpMeFind is to go beyond the zone hardiness rating and instead look to see which member gardens grow that particular rose. If a member garden is in your neck of the woods, that could be an indication that it will be OK for you. And be willing to experiment -- most roses don't do well everywhere, but there's usually many which do well somewhere in particular. And if you're starting with bands, aim for Spring delivery and try to push growth through the Summer by growing them in pots with something like my "magic mix". Then plant after the hottest part of Summer has passed, a little deeper in the ground than you'd think. That little bit of extra depth may help a baby through its first Winter. :-) ~Christopher...See MoreDetermined my Rugosa's have "Bud Drop." Any resources on this?
Comments (7)User: Jaxondel says: "I've come to believe that bud drop on my plant is related to an especially heavy spring flush. It's as tho the plant expends a tremendous amount of stored energy on a spring growth spurt, the first flush, then a heavy production of "second wave" buds, but just can't muster the wherewithal to bring all those buds into full flower. I now think of the bud drop as the rose's way of "stopping to catch its breath." If MN performs in your locale the way mine does, bloom production will slow during the summer months and the bud drop will stop altogether or become negligible. Perhaps a timely dose of nutrients would lessen the drop, but I've never tried that for fear of exacerbating the problem." This definitely seems to be the same situation I had. I had HUNDREDS of roses that budded in the first flush. It was incredible....See MoreTransplanting Marechal Niel
Comments (10)Humble: okay, this will sound really crazy, but I'm going to share even at the risk of resembling a lunatic. I've used Vaporvac's bread knife method (that part is brilliant, by the way) and I've used long spatulas, the type used for icing cakes. They're stiff but flexible. Anything slim and long should work. You can use a rubber mallet to tap on the tool handle, too, as you go around the inside of the pot. Now here's the crazy part. I've greased the knife/spatula and the insides of the pot with olive oil. Yes, weird. This is a potted rose, not a cake. I know. But it seemed to help. I also made sure the soil was moist before going to work. Soaking the clay pot itself helps since it absorbs water. The bottom is harder than the sides, but I used a squeeze type of squirt bottle to spread olive down the sides as I worked with the knife/spatula, and I squirted oil through the drainage hole and tried to swing it 360 degrees to cover the bottom. If the roots are exiting the drainage hole, the oil can be applied to the roots to loosen them. Sometimes the unpotting root damage is reduced because some of the roots can be loosened and slipped back through the hole. The inside botttom is where the spatula is extra helpful since it's flexible. I rinsed the roots before planting and watered the rose well. I share experiences on this forum that I'd never discuss with those who have no understanding of the lengths rose lovers go to in order to preserve cherished plants. This is absolutely not a confession for mixed (rose gardener and non rose gardener) conversations! MN is a heavenly rose! I'm wishing you and Buford all kinds of luck. Carol...See Moresherryocala
12 years agoKippy
12 years agocollinw
12 years agojerome
12 years agodaisyincrete Z10? 905feet/275 metres
12 years agoUser
12 years agojerome
12 years agojaxondel
12 years agoorganic_tosca
12 years agommmgonzo
12 years ago
Related Stories
HOUZZ TOURSMy Houzz: Flashes of Industrial Style in a Modern-Rustic Dream Home
In this picture-perfect getaway, you can sleep under the stars without leaving your bed — and heated brick floors keep toes warm
Full Story
ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9