I sprayed Liquid Fence on my Liatris and coreopsis, which deer, rabbits and gorundhogs also love a few weeks ago. My liatris have turned black on some sprouts and 2 of the coreopsis plants are half black now. I'm very disappointed because they were doing amazingly well before I sprayed them. I shook the bottle each time I used them. Sigh. I hope I haven't killed them. Meanwhile, the Liquid Fence worked!

Yay! Sorry took me so long to respond... lost my internet connection for a bit, and was too busy outside to mess with that. But, I got all your great advice, and have been a busy little bee since then... They are starting to 'bud out' now... so it can't be all that bad. I Took some pictures for you guys, and set up a blueberry album in photobucket, in case you want to see these blueberry babies... they are such cute little guys. I've promised myself that if I can keep them alive through next winter... I can buy myself a third variety next spring. (Keeping fingers crossed) So, after hearing what you guys had to say... I've moved all six blueberry plants; and buried their pots in the ground today. Glad to hear they will tolerate staying in pots for now, but I'm still hoping this is just temporary. Will stop using the garden Sulfur... but it's already been a couple months since I started putting it in those new beds. I really didn't think it would take that long, but I'm such a darn newbie in this area... what the hek do I know. Also... will stop adding vinegar to their drinking water. Incidentally, they started budding out the day after I did those 'emergency' vinegar baths. Coincidence? (My tap water is super alkaline...around 7.6, or so. I'm sure they don't like it) One more question if you don't mind... My "Jack's classic" fertilizers arrived today and I've got special blueberry food in the house. Since these guys are starting to bud out now... can I give them a tad of fertilizer for acid lovers?(17-6-6) That is, if I promise not to over do it. I'm so excited about having blueberries... thank's for all the replies, and especially for the great advice too. I'll be back... Leslie in CO Here is a link that might be useful: Pictures of my blueberry babies...

thats how i kill most of my conifers.. when need be ... even if it does sprout.. how many years do you think it will take to look good?? as i stated in the prior post.. they are way too close to the house .... increase the bed depth ... and plant some new things about 2 to 3 feet further from the house ... this is the only way i know.. to insure they will sprout.. lol ... i would just cut the stumps flush to the ground ... since there is no need to plant that close to the house.. and if they do sprout.. snip off the buds.. until it dies ... or treat with roundup ... and yes.. you do have a contingency plan ... new plants.. properly sited.. and properly planted ... good luck ken

It's telling that big scale Lavender growers use mounded rows to keep their plants in sharp drainage. I have amended clay but it takes years for it to be unlike is natural self...too dense for roots and too water retentive. Some plants adapt and now I know others never will. Lavender is in the latter category. If you don't mind the look you could make little mounds of fast draining soil (without your clay included)over the gravel amended holes already suggested. That's a double duty drainage/aeration situation might allow you to grow Lavendar in the shorter term. I've got Hidecote in pots as I can't stand losing any more Lavender. I even amended the potting soil with some pea gravel and "soil conditioner" so the peat in potting soil didn't collapse and replicate bad drainage of ground soil. I've got second year Lady Lavender plants I grew from seed that I need to separate from holding pots and spread around in only raised bed I know has sufficient drainage. Rest will go in pots and get placed among other plants. I don't know why so many of us want to grow Lavender when we don't have the conditions for it but it's a great pollinator attractor and it's pretty! Just gotta do what they need to survive.