how big is big .. how about a pic ... has there been any major earth work under or around the tree in regard to the renovation ken

In general, I would like to be able to tell you that you cannot overwater, being in the dry SW. But generalizations get one in trouble and since I'm not standing there looking at the situation, I could easily lead you down the wrong path. So, a couple other thoughts: First, has any construction work been performed in the general area of this tree recently? I see thin foliage at the tree's top and that is often a sign of root system damage. So, has any heavy equipment been in the area, any holes or trenches dug for anything? Second, if you would, take a close look at the bark up and down that portion of the trunk you can see from the ground. Look for tiny holes. some insects lay eggs in trees, usually just under the bark, and then when the larvae hatch and later pupate, they form exit holes. These holes are often shaped like the letter "D" but not always, and can be quite tiny, depending on species of insect. Now I'm not saying there is a borer of some type working the tree over, just that we want to be able to rule that out. Any other signs of symptoms? Any small piles of sawdust-looking material at the base of the tree? I'm still mining (bu dum bum) the same territory-that of borer insects. But that does not mean your tree has this problem. Finally, assuming no insect issue is identified, please refrain from blindly applying "some pesticide" to the tree, in the hope of somehow magically hitting the right target. It just doesn't work that way. Tree pests are often quite specific in their tastes, so one really needs to know what they're dealing with. Do pay attention to water management though. This means that if things are too dry in your locale for proper tree health, it may be time to water, keeping in mind that a tree of this size has roots running all over the place, not in some neat little bundle right next to the base of the trunk! One really needs to water the yard to water their trees. Refrain from any fertilizer use as that can stress the plant out even more. Then let us know what happens down the road. +oM

Super! Others will chime in, and probably do a much more in depth job than I. I'll start you off though with what I feel comfortable with. 1. No, I didn't root prune. First time I repoted 4 5 years ago, the roots were were wrapped around the soil. The second time I repoted, to the actual pot, 2 or 3 years ago the roots hadn't grown so much as the first time. 2. I used regular house plants potting soil with neutral ph (7 i think). The soil is rather airy, not dense or heavy. It has good drainage I think. When the time comes, youre going to want to strip all that soil off, bare root it, and prune 1/3 of the roots away. Any that are old (brown), dead, circling, or taproot looking (growing straight down). Keep all the thin hairlike fibrous roots, they are what you need for a healthy plant. Get rid of all that bagged soil media is step one. [Here is a link you will find especially helpful![(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/why-root-prune-when-you-repot-dsvw-vd~2025020) 3. I'm watering once a week during winter time, and once every 4-5 days in summer. I pour approximately 1 liter of water. It is water from my own water source, so it is not treated with anything. I have just a couple of filters in place at the pump. Are any of these filters salt based? When you water, can you bring that big plant somewhere where youre flushing the soil well at least once a month? Don't water on a schedule, water when the plant needs it. Best way I have gleaned from others here it to use a wooden dowel (1/4" and 5/16" fit in a pencil sharpener!) and insert it all the way to the bottom of the pot. Count to ten and pull it out. If it's wet, wait to water. You want to water when just the sharpened tip of the dowel is moist. This thread is HUGE, and very intimidating. trust me, it will solve all your issues and get you back to enjoying this coffee tree! Take the time to read it and all the comments. TRUST ME! :) 4. To be honest, not really. I put some fertilizer in the water especially from March to October, but not I'm not rigurous about it. I often forget. Then from October to March rarely. And I used some fertilizer for palm trees or tropical plants, found in the supermarket. I'm quite afraid of not using too much... As you'll see in that thread, you want to use at least some fertilizer. if you don't have the desire, time, or want to add fert at a low dose at each watering, that's ok! At the very least add some Controlled Release Fertilizer (CRF). A lot of folks here (myself included) use Dynagro Folaige Pro 9-3-6. I use it at the maintenance dose which is 1/4tsp per gallon at each watering, and flush the soil often. Further reading and discussion on fertilize in containerized plants can be found here. Long read, but again, TRUST ME! 5. The tree is positioned near a glass door which is facing east, and there's another window facing south. I would say it has enough light from the end of March until October. Right now the sun rises at 8 and sets just after 5 in the evening, so pretty short days. Also most of the days it is overcast from November until March. I am by no means a Coffee tree grower, i'll let other determine if this is enough light or not. From what I have briefly read they are a tolerant species capable of full sun to limited light such as an east window. 5a. I never got it outside, no. I wanted to, but never decided where I should position it, as to no have the foliage "burned" by direct sunlight. It will love the outdoors, lets see what more experienced growers suggest for where to put it. 6. Romania, Eastern Europe. Equivalent to USDA hardiness zone 7a to 6b. Similar to me. Don't repot or prune until around the end of May. The plant will need to build up energy reserves after a dark winter, and this allows enough time for it to recover and rebuild more energy reserves after you work on it. Not that you can't do it all now, but the tree won't be happy about it. Patience.

IMHO you are asking for trouble planting a live oak that close to the house. Even if the rooting wasn't an issue, eventually the thing will encroach on your foundation and overhang the house. Now some folks LIKE that, because they want the shade. It is a trade off... the risk to the house vs the aesthetics and shade. I would say you still have 10-20 years before it becomes a real issue though. And even if it doesn't fall over in a hurricane, it is very common for live oak to drop significant sized branches.