Zack -- BS is a serious problem for about half of the roses in my coastal Carolina garden. I succeed in keeping the disease at bay by spraying Honor Guard once every three weeks. Every spring I mark my spray days on the calendar for the entire season and keep rigorously to that 21-day schedule -- adjusting it only if rain is predicted. Honor Guard has the the same formulation and active ingredient (propiconazole) as Banner Maxx, but is less expensive. A very little amount goes a long way (1/3 teaspoon of Honor Guard to a gallon of water). Gardeners in other zones tell me that it's also very effective in controlling PM, anthracnose & rust -- altho rust control apparently requires a slightly stronger solution. ND1964 -- Re your comment, **might spray again this week but don't really see any BS yet**. IMO, if you're going to resort to spraying your roses, it's very important to establish a rigid schedule. Often leaves are hopelessly infected BEFORE you see the evidence. Most spray products are preventatives, not cures, and spraying those products will not stop already-infected foliage from exhibiting the tell-tale spots you're hoping to avoid. Michaelg -- FWIW: I know we've all been told time and time again that 'Gruss an Aachen' is a Floribunda -- in fact, that its arrival on the scene heralded the advent of the Floribunda class. Not so, say Gregg Lowery (Vintage Gardens), Brent C Dickerson, and several European authorities. They insist that GaA is rightly classified as a Hybrid Tea. So, according to them, that rose of yours that totally defoliated is an HT afterall . . . ;-)

If you go to the web site Help Me Find/roses, you can search for roses by name. Try Chrysler Imperial - red colors are not very true on the computer, but you could look at it and see what you think. Also, if you post this question on the Antique Rose forum, you will get way more and more accurate information (folks who are good at identifying antique roses are also good at identifying ANY rose, and they love to try!). Jackie

These above mild temps surely can't last too much longer and I wouldn't be concerned of what new growth possibly continues to push. The tops will be tender and very sensitive to freezing back, though the lower older portions of stems will be hardening up. You can top the plant back somewhat when really cold weather arrives to prevent it from being thrashed around in strong winter winds, though leave the hard pruning until spring. Oh, and do mulch that rose really thickly, as your Chinooks will want to eat up any snow that falls upon it.

I think probably Grande Dame is the better choice for both disease resistance and fragrance. I now have Grande Dame and It is proving to be a very good rose. In the past I’ve had MAAB, and I like it, but it was never very fragrant. I will admit that the first couple of seasons some of the stems were a little weak on GD so the huge blooms could be kind of floppy at times, that seems to have corrected itself now that it’s more established. .