When I started using Lawn Boy mowers (1956 model 7000 C-13 motor) the manual said to use SAE 30 wt non detergent motor oil at 16 to 1 and that was it. Lawn Boy then recommended cleaning the exhaust ports every 20 engine hours. They usually got cleaned when a power drop was noticed. In 1965 I bought a 3052 LB(C-76 motor) and continued to use 30wt oil until the early 80's. I switched to LB oil when I had acquired several later model mowers that called for 32 to 1. I continued to use LB oil, 32 to 1 and for the old mowers, 16 to 1. I did try Opti-2 oil after talking to an Opti -2 rep who said that I would be OK using it in my old mowers. Having only one can of 2 cycle fuel made more sense. It was fine in the newer mowers (d-601, F, and a Duraforce) but the C motor on the 3052 showed signs of something binding in the motor. Anyone who has used the early Lawn Boys know that they tend to coast to a stop after the ignition is cut off. This motor was stopping far too quickly. I switched back to LB oil at 16 to 1. Problem solved. Obviously, something in that motor was not being properly lubricated. I've never used synthetic oil (except in my 4 cycle equipment), I'm sure it would be better but I'll stick with what I know works . This mower has been in constant use since '65 and still has, at last check, 80 psi compression. So as long as the proper mix ratio is used along with a good 2 cycle oil A Lawn Boy can have a long life, but forget the 30 wt

I would just replace the gas line first ans check the filter. it the gas line is as old as the saw it's probably cracked and leaking or sucking air. If you do replace the gas line it will take awhile for the gas to get pulled up to the carb and all the air worked out. use carb. spray some carb cleaner into the carb. with the trottle held wide open so the saw will run for a short time off the carb. cleaner and will help pull the gas and air out of the line IMO. Another thought is do you see any gas dripping from the saw either out the muffler or along the bottom below the carb.? The hard starting problem or no start can easily be troubleshoot by spraying a short 2 or 3 second blast of carb. cleaner down the carb. If it hits and runs a short time off the carb. cleaner you have a gas starvation problem. Don't worry about the carb. cleaner I do this all the time and have NEVER Damaged any of my equipment. Plus you get a side benifit cleaning action of the carb. cleaner being pulled through the engine. Another thought is it maybe flooding, when the saw gets flooded you will have the comb chamber, crankcase and spark plug coated with a thin layer of oil which will prevent it from sparking sometimes. If you remove the spark plug and it saturated with gas/oil mixture (and it should be if you put mixed gas in it) wash out the comb. chamber and spark plug by spray carb. cleaner into the spark plug hole and pull the rope several times till all the oil is washed out. now put the spark plug back in and start it. Last thought is the diaphram in the carb has a tiny hole or crack and it sucks air preventing it from pulling the gas through the carb. Old saws are like new born babies IMO you have to clean the crap out of them if you want them to run and be happy!

Your best bet would be to go to a saw shop and pay the guy to sharpen the chain. Perhaps at the same time he would show you how to remove the chain. Don't take this next statement wrong. I'm a little skeptical of you having a chain saw at all if you cannot figure out oil/gas ratios and chain removal on your own without going to the internet. If this is indicative of your knowledge of chain saws then there is a high likelihood that you will be inquiring in the very near future about amputations and wound care. Before you use it go to this site and read... Here is a link that might be useful: chain saw use and safety

I would like to add to the above about the electric Chainsaw. Unless you make it a habit to cut large 10" and greater diameter trees, more that 200 feet from the nearest power receptacle I would recommend going with an electric. With an electric you do not have to worry about gas mixtures. You can put it into the shed and six months from now you plug it in and do what needs to be done. You do not have to worry about stabilizing the gas, or making sure the carburetor is drained of gas. Will it do the job. YES. In Hurricane Fran we had about 30 trees down in our yard. There was everything from saplings about 3" in diameter to the long leaf pine that was about 30" at the base. We used the electric chain saw to bring them down, if necessary, and cut them up for disposal. Yes the long leaf was 30" at the base. We used the 14" electric chainsaw to make a cut completely around the base and then popped it off with wedges. I still have the same saw, and used it last summer to cut up a 12 inch Sweet gum that came down in a storm. It still gets the same attention that it always gets, looking at it and saying that's a chainsaw, filling the oil reservoir. and plugging it in, and it is ready to do the job. As for safety, I believe it is safer than a gas saw in that the blade stops when the switch is release, unlike the gas one which continues to run until the clutch spins down. The only thing you need to watch is the cord. If not careful you can nick it and cause problems.