That exceeds the limit for most lawn tractors. Also most lawn tractors have weak brakes that will not be able to stop your tractor if it starts rolling down the hill.

Thanks. That is disappointing; I don't have a lot of alternatives beyond this.

Let me add that the 17% slope is in the middle half of the front yard. When the slope is done, there are perhaps 20 more feet of flat yard left, then a flat walkway perhaps 4 feet wide, then light bushes, then the garage wall. In case the brake doesn't do the job, the leveling out will slow the tractor some, with a worst case scenario of running into the bushes. I can also traverse this on the diagonal.

Isn't the recommendation 15% max, and that put by the lawyers (ie conservative)?

I do not mean to argue your input, and agree that 17% is on the high side, but given the mitigating factors perhaps this might be ok?

Now, on the 24 percent slope (14 degrees), there is a bit of a potential hazard in the form of a dropoff into landscaping when the slope ends. But it is 14 degrees, under the 15% recommended max.

What other options do I have, if not the tractor?

I see the problem 2 ways. First of all, you're slope is pushing or near the edge of what can be traversed safely. This is not to be taken lightly as people have died in tractor rollover accidents. NOONE here can, nor should they recommend that you exceed the manufacturers recommendations as to the slope that can be safely handled.

As to the tractor, I would think that the weak link would be the K46 tranny. My guess is that it would be OK, but that is only a guess. If I were worried about it, I might consider looking for a tractor with a better hydro, a K58 or K66 perhaps, or get a tractor with a straight geardrive tranny. I should think you would also want a pressure lubed engine.

I know from reading your posts that you have struggled with the Craftsman/Husqvarna vs. JD decision, you looked to have settled on the LA120, but this may reopen that can of worms. You may have to go to garden tractor class to get what you need.
steve

Steve, right on the money, good perception. I myself read my older threads and am beginning to research the Sears walk behind recommended by soccer dad:
"I'll offer a different option all together so you can get fully informed. I'd recommend the Sears 33" commercial mower (Sears item #07188933000 Mfr. model #247-1) for $1000. You'll cut nearly as fast as a rider, and be able to purchase a good blower, string trimmer, and take the DW to dinner and still have money left over for seed and fertilizer. If all you want is a good cutting mower, I think you will waste more time on a rider on 2/3 acre than with a good commercial size walk behind."

Am in the middle of reading the reviews now, which are overall very positive. In the meantime, anyone else offer an opinion of this choice (the idea of walkbehind as well as this specific model)? The unit is linked below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sears walk-behind

"Isn't the recommendation 15% max, and that put by the lawyers (ie conservative)?"

I'm pretty sure the max is 15 DEGREES, not PERCENT.

I've seen some engine owners manuals use the same number for lubrication reasons.
I think the tractor manfs. basically said "sounds good", lets use that number for "safety reasons".

I'm not sure if a pressure lubed engine can go a bit more than that or not.
As far as safety, you'd have to be your own judge.
Lubrication is the unknown.

If the link works, you can see the tractor manual doesn't really address a specific slope, but basically says be careful.

Here is a link that might be useful: Manual

I've seen 15 degrees listed as the max slope in AYP manuals. I just checked my Wheel Horse manual and max slope isn't mentioned. As Bill said, the LA120 manual doesn't specify a max slope either.

Slopes should be mowed up and down not across. Also, you shouldn't turn around on a slope.

IMO, the LA120 isn't well suited for hills as steep as yours. If you use the product selector at the JD site, you'll see that the LA series is intended for mowing relatively flat terrain.

-Deerslayer

As much as my opinion may be worth, 1st off what is your budget? No the 120 will not work because it has the K46 tranny and you weigh 200lbs. Might make it for a short time before problems arise. As far as a walk behind...you got to be kidding...self propelled or not, unless your on steroids, than either the steroids will kill ya or walkin behind that thing will. I have a slope that is a little steeper than yours and a little wider, I jumped from an originally ordered X300 to an X304 because of the difference in the tranny..You need to be looking at a K58 or larger tranny to do the job...Good luck in whatever you decide..

As a comparison, I've had an older JD and a (shaft drive) cub cadet to mow our property. Our property has 3 places where the slope is roughly 30%, as transitions between levels. Generally the way I mowed these places was to go straight up and down as much as possible, but going down them was sometimes a bit tricky. I tended to think of it as free fall. I pointed the tractor towards the bottom on one hill, and then held on. If I tried to slow the tractor down, it tore patches of grass off the hillside. Pucker factor precluded mowing at an angle on the worst ones.

About a month ago, we got a Ventrac 3000. With all wheel drive & only turf tires, I can go at my choice of speed down these hills. I can stop on any hill midway and then back up it if I want. Climbs like a billly goat. 8-))

So my suggestion is to look at a tractor that offers 4 wheel traction. The G (or GR?) series Kubotas, Ventrac, Powertrac, Simplicity(?), & JD are all options I'd look at. You will be getting a tractor that is far more capable, but also able to last forever. Expect to spend more money, though the Powertrac 180 is not a bad deal at all.

So consider if there are also other things that you will need to do that one of these tractors can do easily.

Alternatively, get a very small, light walk behind mower, and do the hills by hand.

John

Just as a added note, if you decide to use a push mower, that should be used across the slope...not up and down...but I'm sure you already knew that.

Don't be mislead by Sears commercial 33" mower. All other brands of commercial walk-behinds start around $2500. (Once again Sears magically chops the price by 60%, yuk, yuk.) I haven't seen one, but it can't be commercial quality if it only
costs $1000.

My Toro Wheel Horse manual has a sketch with a 15-degee profile for comparing to an actual mowing situation. That's about what I have in my front yard. My 1995 12-38XL gear-drive with 12.5hp Briggs climbs and descends with no problem. Like others, I stay away from cross-mowing on a slope like this.

John

A few talking points to the above responses. I reviewed the yard again. The only area that exceeds 15 degrees (yes I misspoke once earlier when I said percent) is about 12 feet long, is in the middle of the front yard, and the lawn levels out quickly after that for an additional 30 feets or so. this rise is 30%, or 17 degrees.
My thinking is to attempt this slope in a straight down-only direction, doing so only in dry grass conditions. Should I lose traction, I have the 30 or so feet of flat grass to slow my progress. Can such an action cause rollover, assuming no obstacles, regulated speed, and caution?

Because it would be an inconvenience to do this down-only, I might attempt an upward direction once I got the feel for the performance. Keep in mind that this stretch is only about 12 feet long. If necessary I can circle back around (the driveway is adjacent) or back up the hill with blades disengaged (ie not use RIO).

I really need a solution to this which is not more expensive or labor intensive. So although some suggestions are no doubt accurate (4WD, small mower, etc) they are impractical due to cost or labor involved. Which is why I want to deeply explore this before giving up (which would mean going manual, the avoidance of which is why I got started on this whole quest to begin with).

So please bear with my stubbornness and consider the info I've provided. In the meantime, could someone provide info or a link on how to post an in-line picture? I would like to post one of the slope in question to provide a better perspective. I know how to use photobucket, etc, but it would be much more relevant if inline right here. Thanks all.

I personally don't think that sounds like much of a hill. I think the LA 120 should be able to handle it, it's not like you will be mowing that slope hours on end and overheat the tranny. Have the dealer bring one out and try it out. If he thinks it is too risky, he won't let you do it.

Personally, I don't see a problem with short sections like that.

I spoke with a salesman at a local dealer and described this briefly. His unhesitating response was that 17 degrees should be no problem. But he also referred to a reduced life on the tranny due to the hills... he said something like 'won't last you the 5-7 years it SHOULD under normal use."

5-7 years is expected under normal use?

When they say that "5-7 years under normal use" it is because they are trying to up sell you to the X300 series. Most of the 5-7 year old tractors I see look close to new and have had minimal problems. When running a tractor 25-50 hrs a year on a lawn (not mowing a forest) and properly maintained, it should easily last 10-15 years.

Then again if you were to step up to say an auto/with hydro tranny(x304) whilst going down hill and not applying the brake the machine will automatically slow down on it's own..hense forth no worry bout putting on your crash helmet(ala Parnelli Jones) and you would have a machine capable of doing your job and lasting 20+ years...hmmmm

It was my understanding the LA120 has a hydro tranny (K46).

Is the tranny on a Husqvarna YTH2348 considered heavy-duty? Sears lists this machine in their GT section. I am starting to consider this in favor of an LA120; anyone care to comment on the value for money between these two? Is the Deere a "better" machine in any way once one sets apart any issues of brand loyalty (in either direction)?

Here is a link that might be useful: list of Sears GT machines

I have the LA100!Mostly flat yard with some gradual sloping(guessing 5 to 10 degrees) with no problems.If the slope area in question is only 12 Feet!You can use a cheap self propelled mower in that area.I use one to do areas around the house that may be abit hard for the tractor.Try to get a pic here!I agree that such a short area would most likely be no problem with the LA120.But if want to play it safe!mow that area with a reg mower.I dont know about you!over $1500 is alot of money for me and the necxt level on the tractor scale is out of reach.Used is fine!but ive done that route and it would be nice to own brand new.

I took another look at my Wheel Horse manual (1995 312-8) and found the following:

Avoid operating equipment on hillsides, slopes or rough terrain. DO NOT operate machine on hillsides or slopes exceeding 15 degrees (27% grade). If safety is in doubt - STAY OFF THE SLOPE.

Reduce speed and exercise extreme caution on slopes above 10 degrees (18% grade) to prevent tipping or loss of control. Never mow uphill on these slopes - mow downhill only. If a steep hill must be ascended, back up the hill, and drive forward down the hill, keeping tractor in gear. If necessary to turn on hill, always turn downhill.

Mow up and down the face of slopes greater than 5 degrees (9% grade), never across the face. Be especially cautious when changing directions on all slopes.

Do not stop or start suddenly when going uphill or downhill. Avoid uphill starts. If machine is stopped going up a slope, turn the attachment off and back slowly down the slope keeping the machine in gear. Do not stop or change gears (speed) on slopes.color>

I think it's interesting that the manual advises mowing uphill in reverse. I can understand how it would reduce the chance of an end-over-end flip but it would come at the expense of reduced visibility. Also, more recent manuals state that hills shouldn't be mowed across regardless of grade and turns shouldn't be made on a slope. Keep in mind that my manual is 12 years old and is for a GT class tractor with a gear tranny.

-Deerslayer

Herus
You should go for the 26-48 5500 Monster tractor which is on sale for $2099 and has the 26hp Extended Life engine, extra heavy duty automatic tranny, big wide 22" tires on the back and a ton of other stuff. It's marked down $550.
And, Sears policy is if you don't like it, they will take it back. Try it out on your hill. I wouldn't recommend it it I hadn't used one for the last seven years with nothing but oil changes and a set of spark plugs. I did bend the front axle a bit by pushing it to its limits+ . . . but I fixed that and it is once again like new. Not as good as my neighbors $7K skag,
but it cuts my 1 1/2 acres just fine. I got hills too.

The YTH2348 has a K46 tranny, I would look to the Monster Tractor 5500, it has a "heavy duty" hydro.
steve

If you fall ass over teakettle and a 500 pound tractor & spinning mower blades rolls over onto you, you are going to get yourself kilt and I am not talking about a tartan skirt.

Monster Tractor 5500, it has a 'heavy duty' hydro

This has a K46 too.

Some of the DGS6500 have K66 hydros.

Here is a link that might be useful: Parts List for 5500

The two DGS6500 that have K66 trans are 28750 and 28748.

The rest are manual or have hydrogear 3000 transmissions.

I have a 28748.

I looked up those two 6500s. Look nice but in the reviews for each some users said backing up (hills?) is problematic.

A recap if I may -- I started the thread with a focus on the safety implications of the hills in my yard. Although I don't think I stated that here, I have in previous posts -- the mowing area is 2/3 of an acre, maybe even less. It is quite smooth as far as obstacles go, and not much in the way of trees to cut around. More than half the mowable area is flat, another 1/4 of the area is gently hill, with the noticeable grade coming to around 25% of total, or 1/6 of an acre. (The hilly area I have described above, by no means precipitous or extended. There is a nasty sloped area on the side which I think I will convert to ground cover as even a push mower slips due to the constricted space. This is not on the transition, which I will maintain as grass).

Due to the JD sales guy's comment and my raising the point, the thread evolved to focus on transmission beefiness and whether it would take the hills and live a normal life. Of course the two issues are related; a strong tranny would hold hills better (question: will the 6500's tranny control speed downhill?). But at some 30 hours a year, no other work but mowing, perhaps 15 minutes per session actually spent on hilly area, is the K46 so wimpy that it will die out prematurely?

Take a few pics if you can!It will help out.From the comments you have been writeing i would think A LA120 or some other simular tractor would do the job.These days tractors are not like they used to be.They are made cheaper inorder to keep the price down for the consumer.I would say even the higher models are not like they used to be also but are built stronger and better than the low end models.I have the LA100 and hopeing with proper maintnance and some TLC it will give me 10+ years.I would say to you! Go out and get the tractor you want!if it handles the slopes without any problems Keep it or return it if it gives you trouble.A tractor will make life easier!I know! Used to cut 1 acre of lawn with a push mower which took 3+ hrs to do.

I just took a 10' 2x4 and raised it up 3' at one end and that slope doesn't look extreme at all. I would think any hydro unit could handle that without any long term problems. I go down slopes much steeper than that and get little slippage and feel very safe.

The K66 in my 6500 controls speed fine on the hills I have, which are about 12-15 degrees. It will stop on the hill just fine without using the brake, though if I want to leave it there I will set the parking brake because it will creep just a little bit.

I dont have any problem with reverse on mine except that it
is slow.

I specifically got the 6500 because of the K66, I didnt
think a K46 would hold up on the hills of a walk out lot.