What size pots should I use for these roses?
I've just received a delivery of six old roses that I want to plant in my 'old rose garden'.
The roses are -
Lady Hillingdon (Tea - shrub)
Souvenir de la Malmaison (Bourbon - shrub)
Safrano (Tea - shrub)
Old Blush (China - shrub)
Sombreuil (Large flowered - climber)
Mlle. Cecile Brunner (Polyantha - shrub)
All the roses are, more or less, the same size as the Lady Hillingdon seen in the attached photo.
My only problem is that, because of the 'wettest Winter ever' in my part of the world and the constant rain all through Spring, the planting holes for the 'old rose garden' will now have to wait until Autumn to be dug.
All the roses have been delivered in 2.5 litre plastic pots. They are all 'own root' roses and have been grown in the pots in which they were delivered. I fear that these pots will be inadequate to see the roses through our hot, dry Summer.
I read in the 'Plastic Pots' thread by 'mauvegirl8' that Nik (nikthegreek) says he grows upwards of 40 roses in containers.
Nik, if you read my post, could you please advise me on what you consider an appropriate size container to use for the roses to see me through until, at least, the end of the year?
My local farm supply store stocks standard conical terracotta pots for very reasonable prices i.e. 25cm (10 inch) pots with a capacity of 6.7 litres (1.8 US gallons) cost 2.50 euro - if that's too small, they have many other sizes up to 37cm (14.5 inch) with a capacity of 18 litres (4.75 gallons) for 6.50 euro.
I would welcome any advice from people growing their old garden roses in containers as to what size containers they use.
Cheers
Tricia
Comments (6)
seil zone 6b MI
9 years ago
tuderte
9 years agoRelated Discussions
What pots should I use?!
Comments (3)Pots are made of inert material, and as long as they have good sized drain holes and are otherwise suited to the growing habits of the trees in them (e.g. maple roots grow laterally and so a wide pot vs deep is in order), they should be ok. However, you don't seem to appreciate that different size root balls must have the correct size of pot, whether rectangular, oval or cascade, and while the pots may be great for training in a general sense, unless they're the right size for your trees, they won't be any good. Plastic is not a problem except that in very cold climates they can tend to crack over the winter, so that could be a consideration depending on the climate, type of plastic and whatever wintering techniques you use (burying, garaging, etc.)....See MoreWhat size pot should I use?
Comments (3)Hi Josette, glad to read you have bought some more DR's, lucky you! Now, am I reading this right....your plant is 3 inches wide and so is the pot??? If that is the case the pots are most certainly too small...how will the caudex grow, it will have no room to swell at all? You will need a pot that gives at least one inch each side of the widest part so 5 inch diameter minimum I would suggest. Maybe someone else would like to add their thoughts...these are only mine :) I have just repotted my 3 bigger ones, also with 3inch diameter bases, they have gone into 7inch diameter pots from 5 inch ones...mainly because I could not find any 6inch shallow ones. They are in the gritty mix so I should not have issues with soil staying wet which can be a prob when plants are overpotted. So 7 inch max I would suggest. I will try and post some pics tomorrow in the light of day! As I said, hope someone else will chime in... Gill UK....See MoreWhat is correct pot size for a tree rose? How big should it be?
Comments (5)Piper, if you're going to have to move it from time to time, I would stick to the smallest plants -- like Mini Standards only a couple of feet tall. We find that our Plumerias in HUGE glazed terra cotta pots commonly have problems in Santa Ana winds. I think a standard rose in a pot would be similarly afflicted. Right now, DH has the biggest Plumies tied to the wrought-iron fence, to stop them blowing over. Jeri...See MoreWhat kind of potting soil should I use?
Comments (0)> Soils for containers should drain 2 to 3 times faster than native soils. > Soils must drain quickly, but still retain a reservoir of water. > Commercial bonsai soil mixes are available and for the beginner with just a tree or two, this may be the easiest way to go. > If you wish to mix your own, keep in mind that good bonsai soil needs basically three elements: *Organic matter to supply nutrients, such as peat moss, or composted pine bark with all of the big chunks removed and the dust sifted out. *Inorganic filler such as coarse sand (swimming pool filter sand), chicken grit, turface, perlite or small, uncoated aquarium gravel. *Water holding material, such as compost, peat moss, untreated kitty litter, crushed brick or vermiculite. > Many enthusiasts incorporate a time release fertilizer, such as Osmocote, into their mix. > Preparing your own soil doesn't have to be complicated, and a basic soil recipe like 50 percent crushed granite or kitty litter or turface or pumice and 50 percent sifted pine bark mulch is easy enough to put together. > A slightly more advanced mix would be organic matter, inorganic filler and water retentive material in equal parts by volume. This mix would suffice for most conifers. > Custom mixes can be made by varying any of the basic elements. Many bonsai growers have their own special formula. One part of the mix given in #7 with one part of a good, commercial potting soil is good for all broad leafed trees and most tropicals....See Morealameda/zone 8/East Texas
9 years ago
nikthegreek
9 years agotuderte
9 years ago
seil zone 6b MI