>> Most stuff seems to be doing ok, but really I need to get the soil better.

If the soil is just compacted clay and things are working, is the problem immediate? If it's a long term thing only, and there's no immediate need, I'd say to just keep up with scads of compost now as well as in the Fall. As long as it's real completed compost lay it on thick and dig it in a bit between plants with a trowel. Add more. And more.

Double digging often gives good results, but it's hard. Think about the possibility of removing (and replacing with sand) just some of the clay bed soil next Fall before digging the top layers under, assuming that the bed area is small enough to be managed that way.

Then add more compost...

Most stuff seems to be doing ok, but really I need to get the soil better.

Plant deep-rooted annuals and cut them off at the soil line when they die. The roots will decay in the ground and open up channels through the soil as they decay.

And add compost on the top, with a layer of mulch ot keep the mopisture content even.

What does a good reliable soil test tell you about the soils pH and major nutrient levels?
These simple soil tests can help you learn more about your soil as well.
1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

"Most stuff seems to be doing ok, but really I need to get the soil better."

I'm with those above who say apply mulch/compost and don't worry. The worms will do their work over time. If most stuff seems to be doing ok, this is not an emergency.

If anything it might encourage you to mulch with compost and easier to break down materials, rather than harder, and longer lasting ones.

(A soil test might be justified in an emergency, but not here, unless you are just plain curious.)

Do you have worms in that bed? If so, just add organic matter such as compost, grass clippings, etc. as a mulch around the existing plants and let the worms do the work for you.

If not, go find some worms -:-)

Thank you all! Yes, I do have worms. Despite the compacted clay I have had to work with in my entire yard, I've never lacked for worms. I think that the huge pile of rocks that used to sit on this spot has really compacted the soil - my biggest issue is that its SO hard to dig into. I'm going to continue to add compost as recommended, and Ill look into those annuals with the deeper roots too (I have nasturtium and alyssum seedlings coming up - are those helpful?)! I will consider a soil test, but maybe towards fall. Right now I have lilies, clematis, iris, phlox and bee balm growing here, plus feverfew and some random annuals. I just know from digging around that the soil could be so much better.

The fact that things even grow here is a testament to the fact that my soil nutrients must be ok, its just the consistency issue. The plants aren't lush and amazing like they could be ;) I'm a total newb to be honest, I used to just plant in my clay and have everything die....baby steps!

Clay soils are kind of a fact of life in the PNW.......yet pretty much anything grows here and with great abandon :-)) Clay soil is far more of a concern for the gardener in terms of effort needed to be expended than it is for plant health. Really the only concern is over-amending planting holes - with clay soils, you want to avoid this at all costs. All it does is create a bucket effect with overly saturated improved soil contained by poorly draining clay soil and resultant rotting roots.

If planting in clay or heavy soils that are hard to dig and drain slowly, dig a very wide but quite shallow planting hole and set the plant high (top of root ball can be above grade). Fill with removed or improved soil to top of root ball, creating a small mound. This relieves digging issues as well as drainage issues.

And I agree that mulching at least annually - preferably twice annually - with compost is extremely beneficial.

My heavy clay soil has really improved by trench composting every summer. I bury kitchen scraps between perennials and the worms do the rest. Easy to do, just remove a shovel full of soil, dump in the kitchen scraps of the day, and cover with the soil removed. Even a densely planted perennial garden should have large enough spaces between plants to do this. Move the shovel to the next place, or if you don't like the look of a shovel permanently decorating your garden you will have to remember where you buried yesterday's goodies! LOL

IMO worms probably reproduce more if well fed with fresh produce scraps than they would if only finished compost is used. Lot's of worms = lots of worm castings.

Ha gardengal, that is true!! And great tip on planting. Actually, I already do that a bit, mostly because I find digging a deep enough hole troublesome as is, so its been out of convenience ;)

GREAT idea on trench composting. I've already been dumping my coffee grounds into these beds every morning as its right off my kitchen. it would be simple enough for me to do. We don't have a backyard compost system right now either, as our composter busted and the pallet system I want my hubby to build is a little further down the project list currently.

You haven't said (OR I missed it, which is quite likely, since it's me) whether you are currently mulching, and what material you're using. I'd love to know. Sorry if it's already up in here somewhere...