nyccoconut, I know spraying anything is a pain - I grow my houseplants in a second floor grow room, so I feel your pain. My suggestion - spray several times according to the label with your choice of hort soap, hort oil, or neem. This will deal with the worst of the existing problem. Then to prevent future problems, and you have no pets or kids around, use the Bonide granules, assuming they are labelled for indoor use. I personally use Marathon granules, but I had to buy a huge jug of them, and they are costly. The Bonide container is much smaller, so presumably cheaper. And yes, Bayer Tree & Shrub is good stuff, I've used it. OUTDOORS ONLY THOUGH. It has the same ingredient as the other products we've discussed. There are two problems with imidacloprid - it can be toxic to bees (which is why the label suggests you spray early or late in the day when they are less likely to be present) and to fish. There is also some evidence that pests are developing a resistance to it.

Judging by what comes up when I googled Disulfoton, I'm going to second rhizo's alarm. It's not supposed to be particularly volatile, so I'm not sure how you're smelling it so strongly (not doubting that you are, just puzzled by the discrepancy: how much did you use?), but whatever. It's not one of the nicer ones. If you have a place out of the house you can move the plants to, move them. If you don't, either change the soil completely or discard the plants. If you decide to change the soil, it might not be a bad idea to have a second person there while you do it, and have a phone handy. The early signs of human toxicity are blurred vision, fatigue, headache, dizziness, sweating, tearing, and salivation, and it gets worse from there. Disulfoton is an acetylcholinesterase inhibitor, which means that it mostly affects the nervous system (all nerve gases are ACh inhibitors, though not all ACh inhibitors are nerve gases), so it's not to be messed around with. Some people are genetically much more susceptible to ACh inhibitors than others, so it's possible that you're one of those people and that's why you're having a stronger reaction than you "ought to." None of this should be cause for panic. (Panic is never helpful anyway.) You need good air to breathe, so get the plants elsewhere for the night. You need to do something more permanent about the soil eventually, so make plans to change it or dump the plants. Make sure you have someone else around when you do whatever you decide to do, so you don't have to worry about being able to get emergency help if you should need it. And all this will be settled back to normal in a week.

I feel for you! I have a very similar situation. My neighbor hates my trees, shrubs, everything and walks on my side of her fence and has been spraying round-up for years. All grass, groundcover is dead 5 feet on the property line on my side. My 5-yr. old new arborvitae tree looks worse than the day planted and has not grown an inch. My tall Leland cypress trees are brown on the bottom halves and look poorly, not to mention she stubbed many of them to the trunk, took out limbs up to 8 ft above the ground, the trees look awful! Her goal is to kill them-after 10 years of growth. I know that I am venting. So what to do with crazy? At first I though she was just mean. I do believe she poisoned my cat 8 months ago, since she had threatened me the month before. The law is very unhelpful. Laws exist, but one practically has to catch enough photos and film footage to prove anything! Or eyewitnesses that are willing to testify. The person can go to court and lie, which is what the neighbor does all the time. A preponderance of evidence is what the policeman told me. So I have been installing surveillance cameras around my home and plans for one or two to shoot down the fencerow. After $200 and trial and error, please get a complete system, donât try to piece mill these things together unless you are technically, electronic savvy. After working with wired cameras for a while which now requires a transmitter and receiver if you want camera placed a great distance from your house, I would advise IP cameras if you have a reliable router. The summary is that neither system is foolproof, so easiest may be the IP. I am ditching my wired ones soon and buying IP, more money. I just hope to catch her and sue, or stop vandalism-which may require continual vigilance on my part. Also get a reputable tree specialist to take a look at your plants, one that wins cases in court. The value placed on plants and trees a tree is not always just the monetary purchase value, the staff told me trees can value at 1000 or more. Besides, it is against US law and may local ordinances to poison (put adverse chemicals on) someoneâs land against their permission. I donât know the penalties for this. Regarding fencing, great idea, but it canât stop the herbicide run-off. Bad Neighbor has built a damn along her fencerow; water does not flow downhill but back on me and none on her. Again against the law for person to damn up the natural flow of water and cause harmful consequences on anotherâs land. Fence may stop direct application on trees and bushes, but my neighbor is so crazy that I figure she will sneak on my side of the fence to do her dirty deeds. The situation I face is complex and fraught with impediments, all maniacally crafted to an almost impossible web. I too have thought about moving, which is exactly what my neighbor wants, control of my land. I have never been so hopeful for someone to die sooner than later.

Organic gardening is pesticide free in my garden. The only chemical I have ever sprayed in my garden is soapy water, and I hardly ever do even that. SInce I cover myself with soapy water all the time I don't consider that a pesticide ever though it can kill pests. Since people are advised to wash their produce before eating it, I think I could claim quite truthfully that my stuff is pesticide free. I have also killed some pests just with water (drowning), but I wouldn't call water a pesticide. "As to organic food being better nutritionally? Well probably not technically for the most part" Amazingly enough organic food has been shown to be better nutritionally. Probably relates to the soil being richer in organic material. Antioxidants and vitamins tested were significantly higher in organically grown produce. Here are two quotes from one article about it, just Google 'organic vitamin antioxidant higher nutrition' and you will find a slew of articles about all the research and analysis. >>The decline in our produce's nutritional value corresponds to the period of increasing industrialization of our farming systems. As we have substituted chemical fertilizers, pesticides and monoculture farming for the natural cycling of nutrients and on-farm biodiversity, we have lessened the nutritional value of our produce. Integrated well-established organic farming systems can counter the decline. >>For example, Virginia Worthington, a clinical nutritionist who earned her doctorate in nutrition at Johns Hopkins, published a review in 2001 of 41 studies comparing the nutritional value of organic and conventional produce. After tallying the data across all the studies, Worthington concluded that organic produce had on average 27 percent more vitamin C, 21.1 percent more iron, 29.3 percent more magnesium and 13.6 percent more phosphorous than conventional produce. I do agree that locally grown is just as important as organics, though. The amount of fuel spent transporting food around the globe is scary. Marcia Here is a link that might be useful: article the quote is from