instrument to measure hours of sunlight?
alezandar
16 years ago
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sundog7
16 years agorustyj14
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Amount of sunlight
Comments (8)Other posts seem to recommend leafy vegetables for this type of sun pattern. I realize these are generally spring/fall vegetables, but are they spring/fall vegetables only in a garden with direct sun during those seasons? They are basically vegetables that will tolerate 'shade', defined as less than 6-8 hours of direct sun, and still do well. This, as opposed to the vegetables that require 6-8 hours of direct sun to prosper. Your sun exposure pattern as you describe it would fall into the "shade gardening" category - lots of internet info available on it - since it would only have 6 hours of direct sun and then only for a limited time. There are some ways to get around the problems of shade gardening explained in some of the articles linked below - using containers that can be moved as needed is one of the most common. Hope this helps. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Shade Gardening...See MoreStupid Question about sunlight
Comments (23)Well I guess I'm contributing to the hijack - sorry scraplolly! I used to live in a house with a driveway just like dtownjbrown and I hated it. So I was kind of interested in contributing to his story. You could think about mixing some evergreens in there. Microbiota, dwarf chamaecyapris, pencil holly, rug or pencil junipers, etc. But they are kind of dull in a row... Another way to go about this is to plant annuals for a few years to see what responds to the lighting. I would think you could grow coleus, petunias, maybe even an indeterminate tomato - cherry tomatoes, the italian plum tomatoes. I grow them in less than optimal sun in containers. My favorite is San Marzano - good for salsa. This year I'm growing calladiums in full sun planters so go try some new things - you never know what will work. Sometimes the repeated annual amendment helps also. Your soil looks good in the picture but who knows how old it is? You say it drains quickly- its possible that somewhere along the way somebody re-waterproofed and improved the drainage down deeper. When we had our back wall re-waterproofed they dug down 11 ft and then filled the space with limestone to about 2 ft from the top - then backfilled my topsoil on top of that. The space right up against my house is very dry as a result. A good resource for you would be the Botanical Gardens in the area - just do a search. Another good resource is the Plant Search function at MOBOT - Missouri Botanical Gardens. For ex. I just searched on Full sun to part shade, Dry to medium, 6-12 inches spread, Zone 3 for scraplolly and got a list of plants back - http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Results.asp I don't know if you want anything to hang out over the line of the bed into your driveway but I'd think about that as you select plants.(daylilies)Whacking the flower heads every time you drive in has a tendency to look kind of ugly. The above was in case you don't like my idea: Given the narrow space and lighting my personal recommendation would be to plant a unifying ground cover like pachysandra which is evergreen, make space intermittently to have a few clumps of daffodils/tulips and alliums in spring and then have a nice white lattice structure just covered in green ivy to cover the wall. I would have parts of the lattice go up 6-8 ft and parts down at the level your siding begins. - sort of like the silhouette of a town. I would use horizontal and vertical crossbars rather than the cheaper looking diamond shaped criss cross pattern. You need to fasten it so that it is out from the siding about 1.5-2 inches for long term home care. You don't want ivy putting tendrils into your siding or cement. Where you live you might succeed with Boston Ivy which is very colorful in the fall. An alternate might be grapes or hydrangea petiolaris which I doubt would be watered at all after established. I could see having round blue ceramic planters filled with colorful coleus and impatiens set right down into the pachysandra with the wall of green ivy behind them. To give more space you could have cutouts in the latticework to center the planter in the space. You could have a small water fountain on the wall among the vines - or frame it with the lattice. Another planter idea is pruned boxwood with annuals/trailing vines around them for summer - and you can do something with them for the holidays. You should be able to have Korean, Vardar Valley, Green Mountain, etc live in a container if you keep pruned. The Blue Girl holly also does well in low light/bright sun but you'd really have to stay on the pruning to keep a holly in bounds. I would also try some unobtrusive stick in the ground solar lights to create a soft glow after dark along the drive or you can wire lighting in. I get container combination ideas every yr from the White Flower Farms catalog - gorgeous stuff altho this yr they were too in love with bronze and orange combos. Shrubs that I have kept pruned for yrs to 12 to 18" wide are taxus, boxwood and believe it or not - euonymous - burning bush. I have a 3 ft deep bed along my house and its underplanted with pachysandra and the burning bush are at least 20 yrs old - you just have to keep up with the pruning to keep them to the size you want....See MoreTool For Measuring Amount of Sunlight?
Comments (12)Karl the best tool for measuring sunlight is 3D Studio Max, hahaha! seriously! In the architectural industry we have to do sun studies all the time. For designing ballparks and stadiums sunlight studies are very! crucial to make sure the sun does not "blind" the players. Sunlight can also affect landscaping design as well when designing for sports arenas, etc. For the 3D program we use, you put in a virtual reality sunlight, a compass, use a pull down menu for the times and locations that calculates even daylight savings as well. But yeah, not practical unless you want to spend $12,000 bucks for one licensed program, hee-hee. I've also got an older version of the program at home myself, so it makes it eaaaasy for me. I wish I thought about using it before I impulsively jumped into roses, LOL!...See MoreHydroponics under natural light?
Comments (6)If you want to grow mature houseplants in hydroponics, the lighting requirements are no different than if you wanted to grow houseplants in soil. Algae is a problem almost all hydroponic systems face regardless of what light source you use. Most houseplants do not grow very much because the limited lighting conditions are not condusive to vigorous growth. Because of this, houseplants need a much lower nutrient concentration than more traditional hydro crops like toms and lettuce. I disagree with what indywar said about the solution needing to be changed so frequently. If you are regularly monitoring and adjusting the pH and TDS, there is no reason to change the nutrient solution every two weeks. My sugestion is going to your local library and reading everyhting you can find about plant physiology. An understanding of how a plant's roots absorb oxygen and nutrients, and how a plant's leaves use photosyntheis is key to long term success as a hydroponic grower. So many people grow plants in hydro but don't fully understand how it works. Educating yourself about the physiological workings of plants is the single best thing you can do to advance your hydroponic knowledge....See Moresundog7
16 years agomikie_gw
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15 years agomarineguy
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6 years agolast modified: 6 years agojamason024
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