Bolt a D-Ring to the floor of the trailer in each corner. Wrap a strap tie-down on the axle behind each wheel and run the end of the strap through the corner D-Ring. Tighten each tie down snuggly but not too tight. Once all tie-downs are snug, tighten each strap.

Here's an example of a D-Ring.

D-Ring

I have trailered tractors on interstate highways hundreds of miles using the above method.

-Deerslayer

If those sides are substantial (like 2 X dimensional lumber or metal) and they are attached securely to the bed of the trailer, you can use a couple of C-clamps screwed down tight on the top edge of the sides to form a strong but removable tie-down anchor. I have used this technique in many situations where I needed anchorage but none was provided. A 3 inch size clamp would be the smallest I would use for this even if the sides are 1/4 inch steel. You would need a minimum of 2 clamps (1 on each side)but can use additional pairs if you like. Place the clamps mid-way of the tractor chassis. Drape your tie strap across the center console (space between the seat and the dashboard). Tighten up your tie-downs. You can run a length of rope around the tractor front axle and anchor that to each C-clamp if you like. Do the same for the rear of the tractor using the towing attachment provision on back of tractor frame. Set the parking brake on the tractor. You are good to go.

I forgot to mention to set the parking brake...good idea. I also lower the mower deck to its lowest position.

Another thing to remember is to place the center of the tractor forward of the trailer axle. The trailer will be much more stable with a couple hundred pounds or so of tongue weight.

-Deerslayer

"run the end of the strap through the corner D-Ring"

If your straps have S-Hooks on the ends, connect the S-Hooks directly to the D-Rings.

-Deerslayer

If you can't get to the rear axle, then I'd attach the tiedown s hooks to the tow plate in the rear.

I would also tie down the hood. Wind whipping around the tow vehicle and into the box could blow the hood open, even for a few seconds and you could be looking at an expensive repair.

If you use a D ring into the floor or side of the trailer, make sure it is thru bolted and not just screwed thru the surface. I would also ensure that there is sufficient backing behing the thru bolt so it can't pull out.

Check that both tires have the same air pressure to help eliminate sway and that you have at least 10% or more of the total trailer and load weight on the tongue.

Drive at a reasonable speed since it will take longer to stop as you well know.

Point the tractor forward so the wind doesn't catch the hood. Tie down the seat so the bouncing doesn't break the seat switch or brackets. Close the fuel shut-off valve so the bouncing carb float doesn't flood your engine. Take out the key so it doesn't fall out during your drive.

Secure it so the bouncing doesn't allow the tractor to "walk" around the trailer. Sudden stops or swerves would spell trouble.

I secure it in an X pattern towards the floor of the trailer so it can't bounce around or move side-to-side or front-to-back.

From my X500 manual. May be applicable to your application.

IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! Transporting a machine on a trailer or on a truck bed at high speeds can result in hood or engine cover raising and possibly coming off machine if not secured.

· Position machine on trailer so hood or engine cover opens from rear of trailer to prevent wind from blowing hood or cover open.

· Secure hood or engine cover with existing machine locks or latches.

· Secure hood or engine cover with tie down straps if no locks or latches exist.

This is all *GREAT* advice. I wouldn't have thought about securing the hood/seat, the parking brake or lowering the deck.

Thank you all very much.

I wouldn't rely on friction and gravity (brakes) to keep it in the trailer.

I trailer mine quite often about 8 miles on smooth road. I've never tied mine down theyhave never even moved. Let alone bounce around.

Bill

Well, Bill, I hope you don't have to stop suddenly or you might be wearing your tractor as a hat.
Tie it down, it takes only a few minutes.

I have two D-Rings mounted in the rear of my trailer, and a cable that I attach to the D-Rings with two quick links. I then use another quick link that I attach the cable to the hole on the tow bar of the tractor. On the front of my trailer, I mounted a had winch. The cable from the winch is attached to the front axle and I tighten until the back cable is tight, then set parking brake. Never had any problems.

Good advice from deerslayer above about lowering the mower deck. If you hit any big bumps or potholes with the deck raised, the bouncing can put a lot of stress on the deck suspension system.

"I trailer mine quite often about 8 miles on smooth road. I've never tied mine down theyhave never even moved. Let alone bounce around."
The fine for an unsecured load can be quite hefty. The insurance co will not be very receptive either. Tie it down for safety's sake.

All good advice, except for Bill's. I trailer my tractor(s) several times during the summer as I mow the church lot, my mom's yard, and my brother-in-laws yard. It's important to strap down the machines securely. It's also good advice to trailer them with the front of the tractor toward the front of the trailer as winds can and will blow off the hood if back on the trailer (it doesn't hurt to also to place a strap across the hood, just be sure you don't tie it down to much that damage occurs to the hood). I put straps toward the front and back to keep the machine from moving in either direction (if the tractor has a stout bumper you can drive against the front railing and then secure the tractor toward the front). Also place a strap, if possible, across the walk through area to hold the machine down firm. Remember to always remove the key, lower the deck and put the park brake on. You'll feel foolish when you get to where you're going safely but can't start the tractor because the key is nowhere to be found. Here is a couple of shots from last year after I got back from my brother-in-laws:

[IMG]http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa145/treed_63628/trailerloaded.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa145/treed_63628/trailerloaded2.jpg[/IMG]

??? Why aren't the truck and straps green? .. or yellow?

I have a piece of chain that I wrap around the front rail of the trailer and the front axle on the tractor. Then I put a bolt through the ends of the chain and screw a nut on it.

Canguy is right on the money as to fines for unsecured load. Here in the States, the federal standards for securing transported cargo require that the securing point on the transported object, the securing devices (chains, ropes, straps, etc.), and the securing points on the transporting vehicle, be substantial enough to withstand impact generated forces "a MINIMUM of 6 Gs" (G-forces). This means that (for example) a tractor weighing 600 pounds must be secured with a system that will withstand 3,600 pounds of force in order to be "legal" by U.S. DOT standards. To determine the "minimum" rating needed, multiply the weight of object by 6. That will give the minimum rating needed. It is recommended that you use a system rated for 10 times the weight of object in actual practice. It is doubtful that a private individual hauling a GT or LT on a small trailer would be stopped and have the securing system evaluated for compliance by the local constabulary, but encountering one of the State DOT compliance units (who inspect transport loads as their primary function) could lead to a citation if you have not prepared a good "tie down" system. These folks also have portable scales to weigh the transporting vehicles to see if the gross weight (vehicle & load) is in compliance. If one of these guys inspects your "rig" you can bet he will look at things you never dreamed of. My point with this is: Why invite an inspection by having no visible tie down system. And if you were to be involved in some kind of collision or other highway accident where your (transported object) was released therein, a "thorough investigation" would follow. Don't forget that in the event the example 600 pound tractor is released at sufficient speed in a collision, it could exert the destructive force of a 3,600 pound (or greater) object when it strikes another object (mini-van filled with a kid's soccer team for example). I don't think hauling anything unsecured in an open truck bed or trailer is something to boast about, considering the potential consequences and/or fines/lawsuites. JMHO plus some facts.

"??? Why aren't the truck and straps green? .. or yellow?"

LOL.......Actually most of the straps are yellow, they're just used a lot that they're faded and dirty.

It's probably good that the straps are yellow. It allows them to be seen, more easily, when lying in the grass.

I'm going to start a new thread related to this issue.