I see no problem in pulling your trailer loaded, as long as the total loaded weight does not exceed the approximate weight of your tractor. And even if it does I would not worry about it as long as there is not excessive wheel spin.

You can get a 2 inch ball with a shank on that will fit the existing hole on the back of your tractor, as long as this hole is 3/4 inches or larger. If not open it up to 3/4 inches.

I would say that yuo should have no problem pulling that trailer. I am assuming that you have no step hills to climb, and that you are not planning to put an excessive amount of weight on the trailer. Remember that tongue weight it very important here. Make sure that at least 10% of the load is on the tongue. Never let the load rest only on the back of the trailer. You will reduce or even eliminate your traction. That could lead to a bad situation. You will need to plan to stop early as the trailer will want to push you just as in a car. In fact, you may have more trouble stopping than going. I have pulled a boat trailer and a popup camper with a L118. The popup weight 2100 lbs. Can't say that I'd recommend that, but I used common sense and took it easy. I am not familiar with that particular tractor, but you can buy a 2" ball that has a 3/4" bolt. My L118 has a 3/4" hole in the rear plate. Most MTD or Murray tractors only had 5/8" holes. If that is the case, I have seen (at Rural King or Tractor Supply) a 1 7/8" ball that has a 5/8" bolt just for that purpouse. I would think that for what you are going to do, a 1 7/8" ball would work just fine. I would not use that on a car on the road, but for 5 MPH on a tractor, it will work.

If you are going to use the JD as a mule I would recommend weights for both the front of the tractor, and the rear wheels. The weight on the front will reduce the chance of the front end coming up, and in addition unsprung weight on the rear wheels will help reduce wheel spin. I use a GT6000 as a yard mule, and although the 20 hp Kohler Magnum has plenty of torque at idle, the wheels can spin easily while maneuvering a 2000 lb loaded trailer.

Thanks for the replies. I think I will head down to the local Fleet Supply and see what the have for hitches.

Thanks

Let us know what you find out.

I use my GX345 to move an 12x8 trailer sometimes heavily loaded.

I have liquid filled tires and a big butt, but have successfully moved the trailer up a grassy incline with about 2500 lbs of dirt on it. Had to get a smooth running start though.

My biggest problem is that the ball is way too low in the factory hitch plate. I need soemthing to raise it up maybe 6"-8".

It would be ideal to figure out how to mount a hitch on the front of the tractor.

I'm wondering if there will be enough clearance between the ball and the tractor frame for the trailer hitch to fit over the ball?

I went to Fleet Supply, and as Fix It suggested, found a 2" ball with a 3/4" shaft. It fits, I just haven't tried it with the trailer yet. I ended up making turning a railroad tie into a drag for the gravel driveway/lot. Haven't tried that yet. There is tomorrow...I'll keep posting.

Bill,

You will eventually bend your drawbar hitch if you put a ball directly on it. Plus you will bang the heck out of the rear frame with the minimal clearance. You won't be able to pull other attachments without first unbolting the hitch, and the ball will be very low to the ground.

I know it's expensive, but I would consider buying one of these multi-hitch adapters from Hayes Enterprises. Then it will just be a matter of sliding the hitch out of your truck's 2" receiver and using it on the tractor.

There are also 2" adapters for sleeve hitches if you have one or plan on getting one in the future.

-Chris

Here is a link that might be useful: Hayes multi hitch

I put a 1 7/8" ball on my Kubota T1670 and Sears Suburban. I also put hitch couplers on all of my lawn trailers and attachments. The hitch plate on my Kubota and Sears Suburban will easily handle a few hundred pounds. I've stood on the ball and jumped up and down with no ill results. The scrapes on the trailer tongue were from before I installed the coupler and it would scrape on the hitch plate during tight turns.

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word of advice, and dont do what a friend of mine did, a cart loaded with dirt, stopped on up slight uphill grade, parked and unfastened the hitch from the ball.
Cart leaning backwards, tongue flew up, a finger between tongue and curved edge of tractor fender above ball, damn near lost a finger, cut to bone and broken..

i regularly pull my 5x10 trailer loaded with limbs using my L130. we have FLAT land, so i don't have to worry about stopping downhil or going uphill. this past spring i trimmed up all my trees and loaded that trailer down 9 times in one day hauling wood out to the burn pile. everything from huge oak limbs to small crepe myrtle limbs. never even a groan from teh tranny.

To pull a real trailer load you need a real tractor :-) Here is my 25 year old JD314 in action. Pulled a total of 12 cords of firewood out of the remains after a neighbor had some timber harvested. Had to use the winch a few times to get out of some muddy areas. As long as the 314 has traction it is unstoppable!

Ken

Here is a link that might be useful: logging

What tranny is in the JD 314?

Sorry taylorkh, that's not a real tractor. This Cub is a real tractor, with real traction:{{gwi:321808}}

That Cub artic is some cute! I'd like to see more detail on that one. Specifically: Does the "rear section" have its own engine or is it powered from the front end via propeller shaft??? or is the "whole thing" hydrostatic drive (front & rear) with just hoses serving the rear section. Inquiring minds want to know!

Sorry mownie I don't know anything about the "Cub-Zilla", but that motor up front looks healthy enough to power both axles....looks like a V-4?