bare root planting help

15 years ago

I got a box from Jackson Perkins yesterday with a bare root rose. It's way past time here to plant bare root. It's also leafing out. On top of this, I just soaked the spot where it should go, so no digging there for awhile. Can I just heel it in somewhere or do I have to put it in a pot until fall. It's hot here now and all the other roses are already blooming. Quite frankly, I don't know what to do with it. My daughter in Oregon ordered it for me for Mother's Day, way back in April and it just got here.

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Comments (6)

karenforroses
15 years ago
I would pot it up in a nice large pot and keep it well watered and fertilized. You can over-winter it in your unheated garage and plant it next spring, or keep it as a potted rose. I've found that my more tender roses tend to prefer this approach. Another option would be to plant it but mound the canes with mulch. Since it is a bare root, you need to keep the canes well hydrated until the new feeder roots develop - whether it is in a pot or in the ground. Otherwise you risk dehydration, which can kill the rose. After 4 or 5 weeks, the rose will send out new growth and you can gradually (and carefully!) remove the mulch. I've been able to successfully establish a late-planted potted bareroot rose by wrapping the canes in a layer of burlap, and keeping the burlap moistened daily, since it is more difficult to keep mulch mounded on the canes of a potted rose. You can also make a collar of cardboard or plastic to hold the mulch in place in the pot (sort of like a dessert souffle!). What do you other folks think?
artemis_pa
15 years ago
I would go ahead and plant it now. Soak it for a couple days...completely covered with water. Then plant it. Mound the canes with dirt mixed with mulch, spray every day. Using a collar (like the kind you would use in winter protection) is what I also use. Once you start to see growth peak out of the mulch you can put a laundry basket over it to shade it from hot sun. Uncover it in the evening, then replace it during the hot afternoon sun. just be sure to sprinkle with water daily. I've done this successfully in hot July when there are bare root sales. I've only lost a couple...but those were lost because I failed to cover it completely.
What rose is it?
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I have no idea about the pics, though blog.com has a reputation for a lot of down-time. Thanks for letting me know! If you click again another time, hopefully it will work better. Hard to complain much about a free thingie, so I won't. Sorry it frustrated you! The pics here are of a diff plant, but the very same principle. " I am wondering if there's a way to have loose airy soil that that also have enough nutrients without frequent fertilizing." Generally yes, a bigger pot/more volume of soil mix. I would forego the styro & compost. The styro will just cause you to need to water (and repot) more often. Fertilizer is much more efficient at delivering nutrients in a pot which is not a large enough environment for the natural decomposition process to appropriately sustain/fortify plants. Also, as decomposition happens, the result is tiny, water-logged, airless particles (mud.) More about soil/watering. A Dracaena grows so slowly, an occasional dose of weak fertilizer should be more than enough even in the leanest (nutritionally) mix. The mix you described, or any with 30% compost would be too dense for my confidence. The goal of a coarser, grittier mix is to eliminate tiny particles of any type, peat, sand, clay, silt. Think moist particles that have some tiny air spaces between them so there is also oxygen, even when saturated to capacity. It's going way beyond my area of experience to give you a specific recipe since I break the rules I espouse but there are a glut of discussion here about this. I would follow the advice established in those. It gets perpetuated because it works well for so many people/plants. There is a pic of such a mix here, in post dated Wed, Oct 20, 10 at 9:45.
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Eric, if you go to Pickering's website, they have instructions on planting bare root roses. Follow their instrucions and you can't go wrong. A very important instruction is to hill up bare roots with soil (10") for winter protection and drying, which is sometimes forgotten. There has always been a planting instruction sheet in my orders, so I'm surprised too that there wasn't one in your order.
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While it is certainly suggested to bare root or clean out as much old soil as possible when repotting into one of the fast draining mixes, I can only say that by my own experience, I have not found it to be critical to plant development OR more encouraging to root rots if you do not. And my experience is pretty extensive. I have been growing in containers for more than 25 years. Mostly trees, dwarf conifers and other woody plants. Several of my trees have been around for that entire time. And I also grow an extensive collection of houseplants, as well as seasonal crops and mixed annual and perennial plantings. And I will say again............by NOT bare rooting I have never lost a plant to root rot nor do my plants appear to be suffering in any way. They flourish and grow and produce well and when repotting, always have a very healthy and well-developed root system. The same considerations for bare rooting when working with container plants exists when planting in the ground. There will always a be a discrepancy between the texture and structure of the soil a plant was grown in, whether it be container grown or B&B, and the soil texture and structure of where it is to be planted And similar cases have been made that these should also be bare rooted before planting. You will find convincing arguments both for and against but very few accept and adopt the practice wholeheartedly. There are simply too many risks involved for the average gardener. Typically, just properly loosening the rootball and avoiding amending the backfill (using only indigenous soil) is enough of an adjustment to allow for proper root development and the adequate percolation of water through the soil profile(s). And making sure the rootball is well hydrated before planting. In addition to my many years of successful container growing without bare rooting, one of the factors that has convinced me this practice is not absolutely necessary is the fact that most quality wholesale growers of containerized plants - the trees and shrubs that I favor to collect - have long realized the benefits of growing in bark based mixes, for much the same reasons we hobby gardeners do. The textural quality resists collapse or compaction, they are fast draining and they allow for healthy root development. In short, the nursery container mixes are very similar in content and structure as to the 5-1-1 mix, negating any overwhelming need to remove a hugely disparate soil mix by bare rooting. I won't tell anyone not to bare root - that is their choice, as is the soil mix they use or their method of fertilization. All I can I do is relate my experience based on my many years of gardening, both in containers and in the ground. Understanding the plant and its needs and understanding the soils you are working with are paramount. If you have these factors well under your belt, then you can make whatever adjustments you might deem necessary.
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susan4952
15 years ago
I have planted bare root leafing out roses in zone 5. They have done as well as any other, depending on age, root stock, etc. It's only MAY! ( :
flowergirl70ks
Original Author
15 years ago
I think I'll put it in a pot. I just don't have time to coddle it and that way I can move it to a shady spot if need be. It's getting hot here now, 85 or higher some days. The rose is Fragrant Cloud. I don't understand why to soak the whole thing?? Even the leaves?
artemis_pa
15 years ago
By soaking the whole thing you would be sure to hydrate the canes. I usually remove the leafs if I'm going to bury the whole thing. If you don't have time to coddle it, then potting it is probably the best solution. I would then plant it in the fall.
Cindi_KS
15 years ago
Flower girl,
I'm in hot windy Wichita, and I'm still planting bare root roses. The last few years I was planting as late as the end of June. They all made it just fine, and I don't have time to water daily! Just make sure you have good soil, and that it drains well, and maybe do like others suggest and put a laundry basket over it for the first few days so it gets a little shade. I would not suggest planting in the fall. I've lost just about every rose I planted in fall, and I have over 250 roses.
Oh, when I soak, sometimes I dribble a few drops of Superthrive in the water as a blessing. That and alfalfa tea seem to help.

bare root planting help

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bare root planting help

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