How well does it drain, Chef? The peat has no business in a veggie bed, and doesn't do anything except take up space. Obviously, this is coming from someone in a far less zeric climate, but I can't see why you'd use peat.

Tomatoes and Peppers have different soil requirements than Basil and Cilantro. I grow my herbs in virtually unimproved sandy loam, but I use about 50/50 compost/sandy loam for Tomatoes and Peppers. The herbs get a soil soak of compost tea once, when they first start growing strongly, and the Tomatoes and Peppers get compost tea and compost side dressing several times, especially when they flower.

It may be that the manure made it too high in N (especially if you also added fertilizer). Too much N has a tendency to cause plants to produce lots of leaves and not much fruit. If that was the problem last year, not much of the N that was there last year will still be in the soil.

The only way you will know whether this soil is good and healthy with a balanced nutrient load is with a soil test. Contact you local office and inquire about having that done and then dig in with these simple soil tests to see what else you need to know about your soil;
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

Here is a link that might be useful: Arizona Cooperative Extension Service

Lots of growth and little fruiting is a definite sign of too high N- as bpgreen said. (Hi BP!) It really is a classic, easily recognized and diagnosed problem.

I would not add any more manure or peat. Mix in a little shredded leaves and mulch with shredded leaves.

Soil test. What's you rPh? Don't guess. While I agree it sounds like too much N and don't understand a) what you mean by "planting soil" and b) the large quantity of peat--you really need a soil test.