"Papers published in refereed Scientific Journals: 70+ Technical articles in assorted Journals and Technical publications: 330+ Technical papers presented at Professional Meetings: 400+ Patents granted: 20 USA, numerous foreign patents. Professional organizations: American Society for Horticultural Sciences, Â International Plant Propagators Society (President Southern Region, 1989), Â International Society of Arboriculture, Â American Society of Agronomy, Â Weed Science Society of America, Â Ecological Society of America, Â Southern NurserymenÂs Association, ÂOklahoma Nursery and Landscape Association, Â American Nursery and Landscape Association, Â Texas Nursery and Landscape Association. Awards: 1977, Henegar Aware given by the Southern NurserymenÂs Assoc. for excellence in research. 1983, Chadwick Award, presented by the American Association of Nurserymen, "To an exceptional educator for superior teaching, guidance and motivation of students in the nursery and landscape arts and sciences". 1985, Outstanding Oklahoma Nurseryman. 1986, Wight Memorial Award given by the Southern NurserymenÂs Assoc. for Outstanding Contributions to the Nursery Industry. 1987, Outstanding Industry Person Award, by the Florida Nursery Assoc. 1988, Award of Merit from the Garden Writers Assoc. of America. 1993, named Fellow of the International Plant Propagators society. 1999, Meadows Award given by the International Plant Propagators Society" Here is a link that might be useful: bio.pdf

Depends on the architecture of the house. Geometric facade with a uniform design all the way across = formal planting, at least in that part of the garden. Otherwise, no, you don't want matching pairs etc. as they won't match the house - apart from the problem of trying to get and keep sets of living plants identical to one another (see below). When successful the typical non-dwarf type of Italian cypress produces a tall tree, too big for foundation planting of all but the largest of dwellings. If yours are leaning over they may be root-bound, this is a too frequent problem resulting from nothing being done to prevent it in container-grown plant production facilities. Since this is so prevalent all you can do about it is either only buy bare-rooted deciduous stock and herbaceous plants or pull roots open at planting time. Rather often there are tight knots of roots right at the bases of the trunks, in which case the specimens are more or less hopeless. These can act as fulcrums upon which the incompletely anchored, doomed trees or shrubs pivot over perhaps many years after planting in their final positions (resting places, in these instances), once the tops get big and heavy enough. 2. SKIP THE FORMALITY Not all formal effects create work; crisp areas of paving, simple water features, decorative walls, sheets of neat groundcovers are about as carefree as anything. But tightly sheared hedges, topiary shrubs, long soldier courses of identically shaped trees demand regular attention. Also, when any of your matching plant sculptures dies, it may be impossible to replace. A garden in a softer, more natural style will forgive lapses in maintenance Here is a link that might be useful: The Easy Garden This post was edited by bboy on Fri, Mar 7, 14 at 12:23

I am definately not an expert as you all are, but I had a yellowing and then black-ing of branches last year on "berkman's gold". Some suspicion was dog's urine, other - too humid - we had lots of rain. One of the things I did is sprinkle magnesium sulfate around the base and work it into the soil. And of course I had to dig down and amend the clay soil with better draining mixture of manure and store bought bag of "trees and shrubs soil". The tree is doing great this year, healthy with new cones.

The main problem would be if it got dried out. Doesn't sound like you are having that problem. Also don't let the roots cook in the pot while it is waiting to be planted, keep the pot in the shade. If the nursery has these displayed spaced widely so that the pots are getting heated up, part of the roots may have been cooked and killed. If you then buy one and leave it sitting in the sun facing another direction, an additional section of the roots may be lost. Ideally you would locate recently received ("fresh") stock in fall and plant at that time. Plants that had been suffering through the whole summer at the retailer and then bought and planted in fall would probably not be an improvement on buying one now and getting it out of the sun and in the ground.