Sorry about the missing details folks. I am using RO water for the misting system and the majority of residents in the gh are orchids. Problem is my wife also uses it for "general uses", seed starts, nursing weak plants, etc. I have found some plants that seem adversely effected by the dampness, orchids with fuzzy mold growing on the dry husks of old stalk sheaths and, in one case, an orchid with new leaves that seem to have died back with a dark "rotting" look.....sorry for the lack of precision in my terms. The info that the Fogger wets down the area in its path seems consistent with the promo video visuals I've seen. So far no one has mentioned the Trion unit. It seems that it is made for adding humidity in-line in residential air ducted systems and perhaps could sit at bench level and be directed away from any nearby plants. Also forgot to mention that the gh has two fans mounted on the roof trusses creating air flow 24/7 in a circular path. I'm off the the San Francisco flower show on Wed AM. I'll quiz some folks there about the issue as well. Thanks for your thoughts Steve

I have owned this Maytag 23 SEER IQ Drive equipment from Nordyne (both a 3 ton & a 2 ton unit)since April 2009. I replaced two old, inefficient systems in their entirety. I paid top dollar for this high efficiency equipment and boy was I taken! Lots of service calls (more in 1 year than in the 11 years I owned the older units); high humidity inside the house (a new problem that started with the install of this equipment); noisy fans that wake me up when the units shut down at night; no improvement in energy efficiency at all (I have to keep the house 4 degrees cooler than with the old equipment to keep from sweating, due to the high humidity); equipment is sensitive to power fluctuations (computer brain flips out every time there is a switching transient from the power company and must be reset); and the list just goes on and on. I would NOT recommend purchasing this product. A Trane 2 Stage system would likely be a much better investment (note: I have never owned Trane equipment and I don't know anyone who works for Trane - it just happens to be the alternative I investigated before deciding to buy the IQ Drive.)

Thanks Tigerdunes for the info. I am going to meet with my HVAC installer on Thursday to talk about how best to decrease the airflow while the compressor is on to allow sufficient water to be condensed from interior air -- with goal to keep my internal humidity below 60% (or more). Re your comments 1-4: 1. No crawlspace, house is 9 ft elevated on stilts. I do have a vapor barrier on bottom of R-38 batting in floor. 2. I never run fan in "ON" mode, however, it runs a whole lot on slow speed without compressor running in "Auto" and/or "Cool" mode -- which I think may increase the humidity like "ON" mode as noted by contributors in this forum thread. However I must solve the more major problem of not removing sufficient humidity when the compressor IS running on, first. Then address this if high humidity is still an issue. 3. I agree that attemping to re-program dipswitch settings, even with the manual, is foolhardy for a person not trained in HVAC and Trane eqpt. in particular. 4. Will attempt to get air handler air speed to be more correctly matched to dehumidification needs. Especially in light of your and ryanhughs comments: "First, that air handler will come factory set for an airflow suitable for 3.5 tons, so it should be adjusted for both the high and low stages of your 3 ton unit (4TWX6036 is a 3 ton). Second, is Comfort-R enabled?" Thanks again to all for your continuing assistance. I will post how this does (hopefully!) get resolved. KR

You might have multiple small air leaks in those rooms rather than one or two large leaks that are easier to locate. Finding air infilteration require's an organized process plus a few specailized(not necessarily complex or expensive) tools. A supply leak can result in outside air being drawn into home any place that isn't sealed.