Failure to post the Engine Model & Type numbers usually causes this problem.
WHAT Briggs 14.5 HP?

Heh, heh. I'm thinking Bill's right. . . Good fuel flow? Clean carb? 666 in the spec #?

usually it's the 18HP engines!:-)

sorry for the late reply. the forum does not appear to be messaging me as i selected when a response is posted.

during lunch today i'll get the model and type off the housing.

since i posted, i've gapped the valves more and opened up the carb a half turn, and put on a new fuel filter.

i was able to get the tractor started by jumping it from my truck, after which i mowed the front yard. it runs smooth and the exhaust looks better than ever (i don't see it, even with the muffler off)

however, the starter doesn't seem to be able to overcome pressure about where the piston is at TDC. unfortunately, i melted the relay while testing, so i have some more testing to do - plus i need to get guage on the pressure.

more fun for the weekend!

I may be wrong, but if that engine has compression release, the valve clearance is important. If the exhaust valve clearance is too great, the valve will not open far enough during the compression release cycle, making it harder to overcome the TDC compression. The compression release mechanism bumps the exhaust valve open a crack to dissipate some compression during the cranking operation. If the valve lash it too large, it will not open enough for proper compression release. Perhaps someone else will verify what I am saying. Charles Ranheim

i found the model and type.
Model: 287707
Type: 0225-01

Charles, you may be quite right. i don't know enough about the engine to know, to be honest.

Also, i'm guessing by rocker/pushrod position and position of the flywheel magnet where the the TDC is for determining where to adjust valve clearance. does that sound about right?

Whenever I have had to adjust my valve clearance in an engine where the valves are in the block (not overhead valves), I have the head off and watch the piston and valve operation. I check the valve clearance when both valves are closed, usually on the compression stroke. If you try to do it at TDC, you may be getting an incorrect setting if the compression release cam is coming into play. If this is an overhead valve engine, you certainly have to adjust the clearance with the head in place. If you just turn the engine over by hand and watch when the valve fully closes, the clearance can be checked. You can also look in the spark plug hole to see where the piston is at the time. Charles Ranheim

"Also, i'm guessing by rocker/pushrod position and position of the flywheel magnet where the the TDC is for determining where to adjust valve clearance. does that sound about right?"

Not quite-
Valves are set with the PISTON 1/4" PAST TDC.
Remove the spark plug and use something like a wooden pencil as a depth gauge. After locating, you could always mark the flywheel with paint (whiteout?) for future reference.

excellent advice guys. i am about to get off work and i'll go ahead and see what i can do.

i've toasted some electrical unfortunately, but that shouldn't completely stop me.

i'll report back later.

I have detailed instructions for adjusting valves IF you would like to have them.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at verizon dot net

Walt, i would definitely be interested.

a report on my most recent activities on the engine:

i pulled out the spark plug and shined in a flashlight to observe the position of the piston. after moving the piston 1/4" past TDC in adjusted the valves.

to be sure the starter had the power to turn it, i left out the spark plug and touched a jumper cable to the starter terminal. it spun the fly wheel just fine.

i inserted the spark plug and tried the terminal again, and the starter spun the fly wheel fine this time as well.

i did not get the engine to start, but i'm not surprised since i killed the relay. i think it's called the starter relay - it's that item between the battery and starter which also has a ground and a few other hot leads coming off of it for things like headlights.

should i be able to start the engine without that by touching a jumper cable to the starter terminal?

"should i be able to start the engine without that by touching a jumper cable to the starter terminal?"

Yes! Just make sure the ignition switch is on.

"Upon further review"
Maybe?

I don't know what tractor you have, but there's a possibility a safety switch could interfere with ignition, if it grounds the engine kill wire or disconnects the carb fuel solenoid if equipped.
Make sure the PTO is off and you MIGHT need to push in the clutch amd/or be in the seat?
It just kind of depends on how the safeties are wired.

understood. ;)

I'll try a few things when i get a chance. I broke this engine down and cleaned it the other week and it appears to be in great shape inside and out. i really hope i can get this thing rolling again.

i'm glad you mentioned the carb fuel solenoid - it does have that. i'll take a closer look at the wiring harness before testing further. thanks!

fixed!

i picked up a new battery (previous was only 3 weeks old, but toasted) and a new starter solenoid.

since i had just adjusted the valves 1/4" past TDC (thanks bill) it fired up in the first crank and ran wonderfully. i did some test mowing of a fair amount of the yard on hills, thicker growth, the standard stuff, etc. i'm very pleased.

thanks alot everyone!