I don't believe you understand the significance (function/purpose) of the things going on here. You CANNOT disconnect A1 at any time. In fact, the circuit that is supposed to be powered by the key switch terminal A1.............might not be getting energized by the key switch at all right now (defective key switch). This may get complicated (my explanation), so try to bear with me. The key switch internal contacts that serve terminal A1 must be "hot" in the RUN position AND in the START position. To do this, the rotary part of the switch contact has been given a very long stationary contact strip so A1 circuit does not lose its connection when the key is turned to the START position. BUT! Circuit A1 is not powered ONLY by key switch terminal A1...................Circuit A 1 ALSO receives current directly from the voltage regulator output wire (feed path is through OP3 terminal 30).............but this "secondary" A1 power source DOES NOT come available UNTIL the engine RPM comes up enough to cause the alternator/regulator to make electric current. So here is what I believe might be happening with your tractor now. The key switch has a "dead zone" in the long stationary contact causing a loss of continuity to circuit A1 in the RUN position. But when the key is turned to START.....the rotary contact of A1 in the switch moves to a spot that DOES provide continuity........and so the fuel solenoid is energized and opens. And the engine starts. But, when you let go the key immediately, and it returns to the RUN position, A1 circuit becomes dead again. And because the charging system has not yet produced any "real" current yet............the fuel solenoid closes.....engine dies. Holding the key in START position for long enough to allow the charging system to come online and substitute for a sound A1 circuit from the key switch may be "key" to ciphering how this unusual circumstance is manifesting itself in this case. Testing this (this theory) could be as simple as providing a separate (temporary for testing only) source of power to the fuel solenoid that would eliminate the A1 portion of the electrical system by running a fused jumper wire to the fuel solenoid from a battery positive source (such as the battery + terminal on the starter solenoid). I do not suggest you do any of this unless you actually know how to do real automotive electrical work! Having ever had your hands on Lucas Electric components does not count :^) If the engine starts and does not die as soon as you let go the key with a proper test jumper wire connected to the fuel solenoid............you have cornered the problem.

If you post the Sears 917.xxxxxx number, one could look at a schematic and know what they are talking about. Depending on the schematic, if you really have a drain, pulling the fuse MIGHT solve it. IF it has a drain, it MIGHT have a direct connection between the charge diode and battery. Like I say, one needs to look at the correct schematic. My guess is that your battery is simply getting old and you don't realize that a 3 AMP charging system that you likely have simply doesn't have enough run time to get it charged fully. It takes 10-12 hours running at high engine speed to fully charge a totally discharged battery on these machines. This post was edited by bill_kapaun on Sat, Jun 28, 14 at 15:51

'Craftsman LT1000 with Briggs And Stratton 17.5 HP Engine ohv 1st problem: Runs fine for about half an hour then dies 2nd Problem Definite loss of ground speed in all gears ' OK, I have the exact same unit, and had the same problem last year. I spent an entire morning checking stuff out, including using a spark tester tool, checking the valve clearances and the 'coil'. Anyway, none of those were the issue, the issue was that the carburetor choke was NOT spring back to the 'open' position after engine warm up/engine start. I saw some 'fixes' on the Internet which detailed how to remove the verical carb butterfly shaft and shave it down a little so it wouldn't stick. I figured I could always 'open' it manually with my hand after a few minutes, but instead drilled a small hole forward of it in the plastic housing, and put a 25 cent spring from there to the ALREADY-PRESENT hole in the black horizontal lever that attaches to the vertical butterfly shaft. See photo at http://www.uploadhouse.com/viewfile.php?id=2339206 before I added the spring. The hole I used is in the foreground; the choke lever from the driver seat pushes the black lever counterclockwise to close the choke, and when I release that lever, the spring I added pulls the black lever clockwise to open the choke. Here is a link that might be useful: Photo link

Remove the deck so you have a good unobstructed view of the ground drive belt system. Have a helper sit in the seat and push down on the clutch/brake pedal while you examine all the linkages in the mechanism from below the frame. You are looking for worn or loose pivots, pins or anything that can limit the travel of the components that put enough slack in the ground drive belt for the transmission input pulley and shaft to become "unpowered" so you can shift. Have you also noticed the clutch engaging at a lower pedal position when you try to get moving from a stop? That can also be a symptom of the same issue. If you have recently changed the belt and did not use an OEM spec belt there is a chance the belt is a fraction too short. Basically, something is causing a bit of power to be applied to the belt when the clutch is pushed down. Here is a link that might be useful: 917.272751 OM