I just had to say thanks for this post Leon. I had done a few air layers in the past with grape vines but never with figs. this past season I air layered about 10 off of one tree that I wanted to share with friends and they came out great. Your pictures are so clear and tell the complete story. The only thing I changed was on horizontal branches I used a water bottle cut in half lengthwise. It was easier to get the soil to stay in place. Below is pictures of one such success. I've shared your pictures with others that were interested and they also found them so clear and helpful. Once again Thanks, "gene" This airlayer was started on July 22 and cut off on Oct. 16. I let it go for 11 weeks because of it's size. My grandson holding up a very nice one. The root ball

Some of them are labeled for raised beds - I use Daddy Pete's Raised Bed mix. Most soil/media in this area is pine bark blends which is better than peat moss based media in my opinion but every garden is different. As long as it is fluffy and allows a lot of air in it should work. Also know that any good growing media is only going to last two years at the most. You will have to add new media next year after this mix breaks down. Breaking down is what you want. I don't always blend stuff together in my raised beds. I start off with good fluffy media and add compost (a thin layer) and fresh sterile media on top each year. If I notice that a bed is getting compacted (very rare) I will use a shovel and break it up and mix in rotted leaves or old wood chips. Air in the soil is as important as water - those roots have to breathe.

First, take a good look at what is there so you can make a reasonably intelligent decision about what is needed. These simple soil tests may be of some help. 1.Testing for organic matter. Put about 1 cup soil (enough to fill the jar to 4 inches) in a clear 1-quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1-foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. More than likely that "native" soil just needs a lot of organic matter.

Wow, thank you. Full of great ideas. If you will bare with me, I have a few questions about some of your ideas. I will try to respond to all, but not necessarily in order. Bob, some of the microbes will bot be able to survive a complete dry soil. Also soil is slightly moist when you buy it, because very dry soil repels water. Unless the person has a good understanding of soil it can be tricky. Not only does it repel water, but once it starts to take it up. It will quickly become soggy. Daninthedirt, First I would like to say, I love the name Dan-in-the-dirt. That's a good one. Most soil is not sterilized before bagging. Mixes for seeds and "indoor" soil, are the only two normally sterilized. See below response to your question. armourded hit it the nail on the head. Neither the customer of garden centre will be please with the smell mildew. Most people can not identify the smells in soil, but most people have encountered mildew smell. It will immediately turn people off. Also, where mildew grows, also grows black mold. It occurred to me if the soil is quality, the other beneficial organism, would most likely inhibit the growth of one single organism. I have noticed, soil I store in similar containers do not develop the smell. I also notice the soil I added the mildew smell lava & pumice, smelled of mildew at first, but since is not longer having the overwhelming soil. There must be microbes that eat mildew. gardengal48, I agree, I would like to avoid plastic if I have a choice. I also agree with the holes in the bag. If anyone has ever used those Ziploc Produce Bags, you will know they are full of tiny holes. They do keep produce fresher for a very long time. The first time I used one, I put in a head of romaine lettuce. I forgot about it, until cleaning out the door, a month or more later. That lettuce looked as good as it did the day I put it in those bags. It lets air out, but not back in. Something like that is an option, but still plastic. Even if people can not open the soil in the store, I want them to be able to see the difference of quality soil. Another advantage of plastic. That is why I was looking at strong kraft bags with windows. I have decided I will replace any soil bags left on the store shelf longer than 2 months. I can always use the soil for myself, as well ensuring the freshness of the product. I worry the mycorrhizal fungi will quickly loose viability. After discovering a strain of beneficial organism as bio-fungicide or mycorrhizal, companies invest quite in figuring out how to make them stable enough in a dry or liquid form. This is why some never come in a powder form. I am sure adding it soil with any bit of moisture will make an impact. I have thought of having the mycorrhizal in a separate bag in the big bag. I think replacing in 2 months is the best option. If all goes well, that will not be a problem most of the year. Especially if I only bring as much as they need. Unlike them having to store a pallet of soil Geoforce think you and I are on the same wave length. Last night I spent time looking for flour sacks. It would allow me to print the name and logo on the bag. It would not give people the choice of seeing it. Even so, I think a cloth bag would stand out. People will notice a soil brand that does not use plastic. Instead uses bags that can be washed an reused by the customer. Reusing bags, means they see the name many times, not just a bag in the shed. Until I can afford to print on the bags, I can affix a tag to the bag. I have a small cotton shopping bag, I use for vegetables, I am going to test this idea. Thank you all. It has been great reading the feedback. You are amazing. I am still open to other ideas. The cotton may not work. Cheers & Smiles Maybe a window it not needed. It is hard to see the benefit of the soil by the eye, since so much is dark, like the lava rock. You can feel the difference better. In the picture it just looks like typical soil, even though it is not. (FYI: Zero coir. THE FOLLOWING IS MY CURRENT OPINION. I RESPECT ANYONE HAVING DIFFERENT THOUGHTS I do not feel it brings an benefit, as well as no proof of being more environmentally friendly. Especially taking into account the poverty the farmers and workers are living. It is actually not a waste byproduct. Farmers use to use it to yearly condition the soil of the coconut fields. Now they have to bring in fertilizers. It takes chemicals to break down coir into the parts we can grow plants in. Horticultural uses less than 1% of the peat harvested. I do not use just peat. (Less than 30% of this is peat. If packed it gets down to 18%) Again thank you.