Well you have a sort of strange engine. It does not appear on my IPL CD but have run across it before and finally managed to get close to it on the B&S site but not the type numbers you have but not important. I would carefully inspect the rocker arm, push rods and the stud and threads in the head for damage. IF all appears well, I would reinstall the stud torquing to 85 INCH Lbs. using some thread lock which is relatively expensive but not nearly as expensive as taking to a repair shop. Also check that the valve guide has not worked up. Should not be more than 1/8" above the head casting. B&S went thru some "Identity crises" around this period. The 33 engine appears to be a "stretched" version of the 31 series engines which had a letter in the model number. The 31C--- has considerable differences from a 311--- for instance. I MAY have torque settings for that and I do have detailed instructions for valve adjustment for the 31 which I would use for the 33. IF you would like them, contact me at address below, put in proper format and remind me. Note that I am experiencing computer trouble at present so don't think I am ignoring you. Walt Conner wconner5 at frontier dot com

Here are some easy to follow instructions/suggestions. Do yourself a favor and purchase the Briggs Factory Service manual. It is a very small price to pay in order to ensure you do a first rate job. The cost of the book will be instantly refunded to you X 10 or more just by you doing the cam R&R versus taking it to a shop. Nothing wrong with DIY, just understand that even DIYers have to purchase manuals, it's just good insurance.

I'm not sure what the cross reference filter's part number was. It was just one that crossed and that was in stock. The outer diameter was 1/4" smaller than the B&S filter. Concerning the sequence of events - the clogged filter resulted in fouled plugs. I wasn't aware that the plugs were fouled but I did know that the filter was tremendously dirty so I changed it but didn't change the plugs until after I realized that the filter change had no effect. Once I noticed that the plugs were fouled I changed them and the mower seemed to be working properly but it then fouled the new plugs in after only running it for 1.5 hours. I went to the B&S website and submitted the information to them to see if they had any recommendations and their reply was to change the air filter. I wrote back and told them that I had already changed it but it didn't make a difference. The tech then wrote back and asked for the model number of my engine and when I provided that to him he responded by telling me that it was a documented problem with that engine and that there are several cross reference filters that will fit but the mower won't run well with. Twice he wrote to me and told me to change the filter to the B&S numbers and it would fix the problem. Obviously I had to change the plugs too since they were fouled and when I did that this weekend I could immediately tell that it was running much better. I used it for ~3.5 hours and it never missed a beat and I could tell too that it was no longer running rich. I'm sure it is fixed because even when it seemed to be running well when I had changed the plugs the first time it still ran rich. This time there were no signs of it running rich and it never once lacked power or backfired as it had before. The part number recommended by B&S is: Air filter 692519, pre filter 692520. BTW, the tech also stated that there are even hood stickers that call out the wrong air filter part number too. The printed material that I have for my engine even lists the wrong spark plug gap. I found that out when I had the tech verify all the numbers and specs for me before working on it this weekend. Lastly, the salesman at the parts store told me that they had experienced problems with that same engine when they had used other air filters. As he stated it, "that motor is very picky about the air filter that it uses". Strange but true! At least in this case. Thanks again. Scott

So, this is what takes place while I am mowing. Put @ 4 hours on the repair and the missing pushrod did not float up the oil filler spout or into any vital parts. When and if I have problems I am going to let you all know about it. Hopefully it will wait to appear after this season when I plan on overhauling the twin v. I really looked for a passage that a poshrod could go and found no space big enough to accomadate it. If anyone has an idea share it with me and the others that seem to be interested. THANKS AGAIN, Bob