Yes and yes.

Right now, in the GH, under mist, I have cuttings of Salix Hakuru Nishiki, White Beautyberry, Leptodermis oblonga, Bouvardia longofolia, Odontonema callistachyum, Juanulloa aurantiaca, Breynia disticha 'Roseo-picta', Passiflora edulis 'McCain', Jasminum x stephanense, Jasminum polyanthum, Muntingia calabura, 18 different species of Hoyas, and probably half a dozen other things I can't remember right now. I have in past years also rooted Magnolias, Viburnums, Hibiscus, and many others. This is a great time of year to do it.

I'm doing a some of both, Gardenia, holly, roses, heavenly bamboo, pink smoke bush (really want this to work!) trumpet vine, and the list goes on.

Thanks to everyone for the advice!

Vic

Do you think the Southern Magnolia can be started from cuttings? We have a beauty in front of the house we'd love to reproduce. The seeds, planted outside, never germinate.

Just watch those temps in those little portable things. They'll cook in no time. That's why stressbaby is successful is his/her (I forget even though you've helped me so much in the past) is not only the mist, but also he/she has a very large greenhouse and every gadget available.

I have this Harbor Freight 6x8 and the temps are way above 100 F. No way to root stuff. That's with a shade cloth too.

As to cuttings I should have said earlier that juvenile wood is very important. That's why growers keep stock plants. If a person were to let the plants age significantly, the chances of rooting go down significantly.

greenhouser, here's what Dirr says for (Evergreen) Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora:

"Cutting propagation is the preferred method for this species. The importance of bottom heat, sanitation and the use of fungicides has been stressed. One report mentioned the use of Clorox treated metal flats, for the months of July and August (September) are the optimum for cutting propagation, although reports have noted successful cutting propagation into November. Take terminal cuttings, 4.5 to 8" long, treat with 3000 or 5000 ppm IBA0talc and place under mist with bottom heat (75 to 80 F).........wounding has been re ported to promote rooting and the leaves are not reduced in size. A range of rooting media, including vermiculite, perlite, sand, sand and perlite, have been used. When using the bottom heat (80F) it is important to keep the cuttings well watered. Fungicides such as Captan, have been used as a cutting dip prior to sticking followe dby a fungicide spray every 2 weeks. A soluble fertilizer applicatoin at the time of callus formation and rooting also has been reported to improve subsequent cutting development. Roots are brittle and coarse, and care is necessary to prevent root damage which will retard cutting growth."
(Dirr 'The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation' From Seed to Tissue Culture - Second Edition 2006) - This book is worth its weight in gold.

The same set-up I above described will do just as well. A plain old tupperware bin sealed and under a shade tree. Dappled light to indirect light to full shade/mostly shade is perfect for those without all the nice misters and greenhouses - etc.

Dax

I've worked with Sweetbay Magnolia, so I don't know about Southern Magnolia.

Dax has quoted Dirr, I don't know that you can get much more help than that! Thanks, Dax. I agree, you really have to watch the temps in the little houses. Greenhouser, it cannot hurt to give it a try.

Vic, if by pink smoke bush you are talking about Cotinus coggygria (sp?) I should mention that it is really hard to propagate from cuttings. I have never been able to do it. You might look at layering.

PS: Nice house Dax!

I live near St.Louis Missouri. I am new to Gh thing also I have a 6x8 hfgh. I have some cuttings of perennials in there right now using a mist system that is on 3hrs a day and a shade cloth what a difference this made. They are rooting well the rose cuttings I am finding do better when they are put in bags for a couple weeks then I take them and keep them misted. This GH ting is all about trial error right now but taking notes on which plants need more humidity then others. This is a conversation I would like to see more of here in this forum. Growing in a GH and not so much about setting one up to use. Anyone can put up a Gh but how do we use it.

Layering!??? I don't have a clue about that. Yes that is the bush I'm talking about, really want a purple one but the place that I "relocated" the cutting from only had a pink one. It a was new sprout, it's been about a week and was doing ok, now is starting to droop.

Also, when doing cuttings should I use a little cutting?
Does size matter? (talking about plants! lol)

And, I know people say it can get too hot in a greenhouse to root, but doesn't it also get pretty hot on the plants wrapped in plastic with no air circulation?

Thanks for all the info!
Vic

That's why you keep them in the shade Vic. Layering Vic is bending a stem to the ground and burying it. It's a very effective old fashion way of propagation. Check Google. Size of a cutting should be 4-6" generally speaking, as well.

Thanks a lot Stressbaby. I tell ya, it really is a heck of a house (will be).

Dirr on Cotinus coggygria (that's your pink-blooming commonly sold in nurseries species):

"Rooting cuttings is not difficult but overwintering successfully is another story. Cuttings have been direct stuck in pots, in flats, greenhouse benches and in outdorr ground beds with 80 to 100 percent success. Key to success includes using softwood, actively-growing cuttings in June (preferably), 4 to 6" long, 1000 to 3000 ppm IBA-solution, well drained medium, mist, rooting takes place in 4 to 8 weeks. Early JUne, 'Royal Purple' (Iowa) rooted 86 percent, while late July (Iowa) rooted 33 percent using 1425 ppm IBA plus 1425 ppm NAA and 40 ppm B (H3BO3). Cuttings must be overwinted without disturbance and transplanted in spring. Transplanting immediately after rooting resulted in 70 percent and great losses. One grower overwinters rooted cuttings in 33 to 38F storage. Hormone is definitely needed to to produce vigorous root systems. In one study, 8000 to 10,000 ppm IBA talc proved optimum. 2percent IBA0talc burned the cuttings. Untreated cuttings rooted similarly to 8000 and 10,000 ppm IBA cuttings (80-90 percent) but had only one or two stringy roots. Hardwood cuttings of 'Royal Purple', early December, treated with Jiffy Grow, rooted 100 percent. Successful handling after rooting was problematic. Other instances of hardwood cuttings were reported but success was variable."
(Dirr 'The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation' From Seed to Tissue Culture - Second Edition 2006)

And Vic, get my mind out of the gutter ya fool! lol oops!

Take care,

Dax

Hey thanks! :) I have an old unused large aquarium I can use in the dappled shade of a flowering cherry tree. I can use that and put a clear plastic cover over it. I already have a supply of perlite, sand, vermiculite etc. My greenhouses are too hot for rooting anything, even with the shade-cloths and there are no misters available.

You took the words right out of my mouth. Almost all of us already have a GH = now how do we use it to best advantage to grow our beloved plants? I'm finding excess heat in both winter and summer to be my biggest problem. Even in winter on a 30 or 40F day the HF 6 by 8 reaches 100 to 105 degrees. If we can ever figure out how to get the two vents to open and close without force we can get auto-openers. We just set the Rion up this spring but even with 4 roof vents, a shade-cloth and both doors open it's too hot to use. I'm hoping the winter will be better in this larger GH (8.6' X 16.6'). Although the older plants tolerated the high heat all winter, or at least until I got out there to open the vents and door, the seedlings were a little spindly. Too much heat for the length of the day.

Oh, both GHs have fans for HAF and the Rion has one on the floor blowing up - but that one will have to go once the last plant tables are out there. It's in the way and the roof is too low to hang it overhead. I may try a smaller less thick one to get the heat moving........

I, too, would love to see more threads on greenhouse GROWING. I tried to engage in that conversation once by starting a thread entitled something like, "Let's talk about the Green in Greenhouse," but I was promptly shot down, so I gave up on that. I'm not referring to anyone in particular, but don't you wonder about a GH poster when they give plenty of technical information, but you never hear about what they grow or see any pics?

From last year:
{{gwi:300753}}

Another:
{{gwi:300756}}

Cuttings potted up:
{{gwi:300759}}

I do take requests and love to trade...anybody?

Greenhouser, I can't remember, do you have an exhaust fan? Size an exhaust fan at cfm = double your volume (one air exchange every 30 seconds) and your temps will plummet. Email me, I might be able to help you with the misters.

Dax, I couldn't ever even get the darn Cotinus rooted! Who has 10000 ppm IBA lying around, anyway? ;-)

SB

well I say lets keep the conversation going. I have not been able to find any internet sites on how to grow plants in a greenhouse.Maybe we can start our own forum. I don't think everyone who purchases a greenhouse knows how to use it. I don't. I am learning by trial and error

Hi Stressbaby,

I buy my rooting products (I use 8000 on everything but again I deal with woody plants only) from OBC Northwest. I use the line of Hormex products. Hormex makes #'s 1,3,8,16,45. #1 = 1000 ppm IBA and so on.

I know that's not what you mean, but that's how I'm able to add to this thread.

Dip n' Grow as a diluted producted is actually better according to my professional sources. Most of these growers use 1 to 10 parts as a dilution rate. I don't know the full strenght of this product, but it probably is quite strong. Plus, I think the powder products aren't as good; Dip n' Grow would be #1 on my list followed by the line of Hormex products.

OBC is a wholesale company, but anyone can purchase from them if they were to meet the company's minimum. A pound of Hormex I checked was about 15 bucks and that alone meets a minimum.

Here's also a link from the Home Page for Hormex which details what each strengh is used on (some) specific plants. I'm sure a person might be able to step outside the lines and (choose) which product based on the current information they supply.

I'm finished trading for the year, but not next! I'll think of you come about this time, next year. June is the month I do all my trading! Things are potted up so they have full-root systems each June in my climate and I do this based upon information a conifer grower has told me about his own operation.

Anybody who wished to discuss grafting ever, just send me an email or post a thread.

Thanks Stressbaby for the offer.

Dax

Here is a link that might be useful: Hormex Home Page

Hey Dax! I didn't put your mind in the gutter, you did! The power of suggestion! LOL
Now you're telling me I have to choose a rooting hormone! I thought this whole "just dip in powder & stick it in the dirt" aka dip & stick, was not going to be as easy as it sounded! Also, my smoke bush "cuttings" are like 3ft tall, LOL, I guess that is too big?

Stressbaby, Yes, I seen that post. What a rude ------ that person was. I almost didn't post my ? because of that. I wasn't sure if I should post it here or on the plant propagation forum. You guys have helped me a lot. And if a GW user doesn't like the "topic" they don't have to read the thread!
As far as trading, I have some smoke bush cuttings, lol
Please tell me that is not heavenly bamboo. I tried that too and it's not looking very good either.

Vic

Ok, now that I know I'm doing everything wrong, where should I put my greenhouse?
For summer use: I have an area that gets am sun, but is in the shade in the mid and late afternoon. It's under a large tree (on the west side) Garage on the North (about 20 ft away) and open to the S & E. I have a cement slab I can put it on or just the ground. which is better, does it matter.
For winter, same thing, cement or dirt. But it will be in full sun. I won't be using till early spring, I'm not going to be heating this.

For anyone in Zns 5-6, how early can you get use out of a gh if it is not heated?

Vic

Stressbaby, I'd love to have some of the cuttings you've got going like a Breynia and a hoya or two but I don't have any cool tropicals to share.

Do you have a pond? I have many extra aquatics including 'Helvola' a tiny yellow waterlily.

I'll answer a few questions. Yes, I would be suspicious of anyone with tech knowledge but no interest in discussing the growing of plants in the GH. There may be a commercial interest there.

No, I don't have an exhaust fan but it appears I need one desperately. The frame of a Rion is plastic and we're kind of lost as to how to install it. We would also need to get a vent for near the floor to let the cooler air in and remove the auto-vents or the fan would just suck air from the nearest roof vent, not the floor vent.

Misters: due to the solid limestone between the waterline and GHs, there is no way to get water to it. Because even a few expensive hoses have split on us over the years my husband doesn't want any hoses left with the water pressure turned on. We don't have a well so it's costly when a hose pops. I was hoping the shade cloth would make it cooler and it did, but it still hits 105F when the sun is directly on it. Without the cover it would hit 120F.

Vic, you better learn to graft with 3-footers! heeheeheehahahahahhhohoohhoho!

I was once there myself!

Gotta run, am going to my new home being built... today's payday.

See ya all,

Dax

Greenhouser, here is a thought...unconventional, but just maybe it would work...

You could run a hose to the GH and put the mister valve/timer at the house. Then the hose would not remain pressurized, and you could roll the whole thing up in the fall.

There has to be a way of framing in an exhaust fan. Post some pics and maybe we can work it out.

Thanks for the Hormex info, Dax! Does IBA really come in 45000 ppm?!? Guys, let me tell you, Dax knows his conifers. For most of my cuttings I use off the shelf rooting hormone powder or 250-1000 IBA quickdip. Occasionally on harder to root things I'll go to 5000 IBA quickdip, but eventually as you go up you have to start adding alcohol to the solution.

Vic, do a search for posts by Chris_in_IA and you will probably find your answer regarding when you can open your GH without heat. Or you could email him. He hasn't posted much lately. (Hope I got his user name spelled right...) That is not heavenly bamboo. And I think a GH with a large deciduous tree to the west might be ideal. There are many, many posts regarding foundations, you may want to search. I spray lots of water around my GH and I have good drainage through the floor. I would worry a little bit about the drainage in a GH with a concrete floor, but depending on your needs, it could work.

Buyorsell888, you have mail.

This thread is all over the map, but it's fun.

Buyorsell888,

I cannot seem to access your email through the "my page" link. Try emailing me. I may just have some plants for you.

SB

I think you can see the back wall clear enough in this pic. The heavy green frame is plastic.

Greenhouser, I picked up a small exhaust fan at a garage sale, it is about 8x8", why couldn't you get one that size and just cut into the wall close to the frame and install it that way? The one I have isn't too heavy, and it looks like the frame on your gh would be strong enough to support it. Have you tried looking at gh websites? They have all kinds of stuff on some of those sites.
Just a thought, I am new to this gh thing.
But, I am Jealous! it is a very nice gh.
Vic

That 45 Hormex threw me off. Never in any literature have I seen it suggested to use anything that strong. Maybe, just maybe, a Cotinus c. might need that! Who knows, not I.

I think that framing an exhaust fan in heavy plastic would be the same as for aluminum, etc -. I also can't understand why a Rion Greenhouse doesn't have a pre-made kit for assembling such. There has to be one specifically made for that nice of a house.

I'm in the same boat as you. Money walks but I'm not walking. With time, you can save to get what you need. There's no way you should have a greenhouse without exhaust fans and shutters to pull airflow through (and water). I'd guess you'd be losing for the positive approximately 20 degrees of heat with proper air flow. After all, a greenhouse is designed to be used year-round. As per misters should you get that far at some point in time, you'll want to have them set at misting every 30 minutes (for propagation) with such a light misting, that water droplets don't stick on your plant material. And even though 50/50 perlite to peat is a common growing medium, a person should researh what media is best-suited for each plant being propagated.

Another important product I use is called Consan 20 which is a combination fungicide and algaecide. When the top of your potting media contains green junk or your plants show any signs of blighting, this product should be used. My friend uses a wholesale product which is less toxic called Zerotol, but I've only seen it sold wholesale and it's over 100 bucks at a crack. Either of these may be used to in addition, sanitize your greenhouse (clean), as well.

Not much contribution, but I'm too enjoying this conversation so much, I wish to keep it moving along.

Nice folks around here. I'll have to stop in more often.

Take care of yourself!

Dax

Greenhouser, can you post a couple of closeups of the PVC frame material?

They had to have (the PVC) bolted together, well or they snapped into place which doesn't seem likely. I looked at construction photos one time for these animals but I do not remember how it worked. I do remember a person here had hired someone to put it together.

Dax

Stressbaby,

The links to mail through Garden Web aren't working.

My email is my username@comcast.net

That wouldn't work because you need a regular GH fan with those slats that open and close as the fan runs or shuts off. They're expensive and not lightweight. The polycarb alone wont support it. It would somehow have to be attached to the frame. The polycarb itself isn't easy to cut without the right saw and it's already installed. Then another vent would have to be added at the opposite end to let air in. Sometimes I feel overwhelmed with everything I need, and the cost involved. This can become a very expensive hobby.

My husband is now semi-retired and will retire in less than a year so we have to watch our spending.

My husband is the best but the costs are really starting to add up with this Rion. Neither he nor I realized all the costs involved. Remember it took a lot of rebar, then concrete for the base to be attached to the ground. Then we needed a load of gravel. I had to get several fans for HAF and all the electrical equipment to get electricity to it from the garage. We picked up two small 1500w heaters and the wireless thermometer, plus a regular therm for the GH itself. I needed to buy a decent 100' hose to get water to it. Then it was the shade-cover and insulating material for the poorly designed roof. Then when I priced vents and exhaust fans I almost fainted. After seeing how flimsy the roof-vent openers are Rion provided I don't think I'd want to buy an exhaust fan from them. Although the wood for the benches was free as was most of the hardware cloth, we did have to buy another roll for the last 3 benches or plant-tables. If we add a exhaust fan and vent we'll also need to buy some kind of saw to make a clean cut in the polycarb and something solid to attach to the plastic frame to set the fan in........ as I said in another post we're getting a bit overwhelmed. It's just not a job for the average Joe or Jane.

Yes I can take pics of the frame. It's snapped together, then very strong nylon pins are inserted to keep the joints together. The construction is very strong, plus the polycarb just doesn't sit in the frame. It has a heavy black rubber strip forced into the frame to make them air and water tight adding to the stiffness of the frame. But then you can see daylight where the roof joins the wall and at the second joint of the roof and at the top of the roof itself!!!! To our distress we just found that silacone will not stick to the plastic to fill these large spaces to the great outdoors. Great-Stuff will not stick either. So we bought heavy sponge insulation to stuff and cram into these openings.

Greenhouser, Ok, if your going to go budget-wise, (I know I always have to!) what about getting one of the dryer vent thingys that goes on the outside of the house? Mine has little shutters on it.
And then using the fans like what you have in front of it?
You can get a saws all at harbor freight for $20.00 to make the hole, then file it smooth if you need to. And just drill holes in the gh to hold it in. Yeah, it may be redneck, lol, but it would be a lot cheaper. You can pick up little box fans at rite aid, cvs, or walmart pretty cheap and they would be light enough to hang from your ceiling.
I didn't know what a good deal I got on my vent fan till I tried looking it up on the internet to show you it. There are the little slats on it like you said, but yes, they are over $100.00! eeek! If I weren't using it I would just mail it to you.

Dax, thanks for all the support!
I'm trying grafting now, I cut the top off a small poplar tree and duct taped the cotinus c. to it, and put a garbage bag over it. My neighbors think I'm crazy! LOL

Oh, I did learn one thing on here. DON'T check the little box to have all the posts sent to your email! ooops :)

Vic

This is a little diagram I found from last year. I drew it to help someone on another forum with the sagging frame over their Rion door.

{{gwi:300763}}

I wonder if something like this would work for your fan. You might be able to skip the wall anchor altogether and just screw it in.

This is a better diagram.
{{gwi:300764}}
Stock aluminum is available at most hardware stores and is easy to work. You could even paint it to match the frame.
The key would be getting a good seal. You could put it in spot A or B below. You might be able to get a fan that would fit (and seal) three sides of either opening, but I think you would have to seal at least one portion of either...either to the side of A or down below spot B. If it is big enough, A would be preferred, just because it is higher.

{{gwi:300765}}

Maybe if you measure those openings for us, we can help find a fan.

OK, this is perhaps even less expensive, and it would use a box fan, 80" of 1/8" aluminum stock and a few screws. It should work, as long as one of the openings is 20" or greater.

You would still have to seal a hole one place or another. I think the standard 20" box fan is rated at around 1500 cfm.
{{gwi:300766}}

OK, I'm taking the cooking spaghetti approach, tossing everything at the fridge to see what sticks. Does anything stick? ;-)

Greenhouser, I have not tried this myself and really don't know if it would work but what about glazing putty to fill in those gaps in the frame? You can buy the preformed glazing putty at any big box...it might work and wouldn't be too expensive if it didn't.

Greetings to Dax...Love the house, man. :)

Just a thought,

Dave
Milwaukee

I move everything out of my greenhouse here in North Georgia By the 1st week of June.Even with the vent fans running constantly,and some misting,it stays in the high 90's in there!I grow all my plants outside this time of year-my greenhouse funtions as Frost protection(I keep it about 50F at night with propane Heat)During the colder Months.During the warmer months,It serves no Purpose.Mark

The temps here in St.louis are in the 90's and I am still using my GH. All my cuttings are developing roots that is one reason I bought a GH.I hope to use mine 9 months of the year.

Thank you Milwaukee Dave as my Dad has so appropriately named you during our first Harbor Freight assembly.

Things are coming along quite beautifully.

From yesterday, July 7.

Greenhouse to be tucked under this south-facing deck:
{{gwi:300767}}

Front of home (West Facing) and wrap-around (South Facing):
{{gwi:300770}}

Living Room Going Up - The home might be finished mid-August or thereabouts (Late August I was told):
{{gwi:300773}}

Dax

That is just incredible Dax. where are you building?...certainly not in the Chi area.

YOU SAID: "Greenhouser, Ok, if your going to go budget-wise, (I know I always have to!) what about getting one of the dryer vent thingys that goes on the outside of the house? Mine has little shutters on it."

Yes we looked at them. They're quite small, only about 8" in diameter. It's going to take a hole a lot larger than that to cool a 8.6 X 16.6' GH. To be effective the fan would have to be right up to the vent and there's no space to attach a fan, especially a large one. Blowing the heat towards the roof vents, would be similar to what you're describing - doesn't work. I tried that already.

YOU SAID: "You can get a saws all at harbor freight for $20.00 to make the hole, then file it smooth if you need to. And just drill holes in the gh to hold it in."

Our GH is the Rion so the frame isn't level with the polycarb like on a HFGH. The frame for any vent or fan attached to the frame would be set back from the polycarb.

YOU SAID: "Yeah, it may be redneck, lol, but it would be a lot cheaper. You can pick up little box fans at rite aid, cvs, or walmart pretty cheap and they would be light enough to hang from your ceiling."

We already have two small fans hanging from the ceiling that we walk into constantly because the ceiling is so low. But they're for HAF and don't suck in fresh cooler air. They just push the hot air around. I put a 20" box fan just outside the doors blowing in which help a little, but it'll short out if it rains. Actually the safety thing will shut it off. The fan would be ruined. So I can only use it when I'm home. I really need an expensive large exhaust fan and matching vent at the other end. But there are two problems... where and how to install it - and the price.

YOU SAID: "I didn't know what a good deal I got on my vent fan till I tried looking it up on the internet to show you it. There are the little slats on it like you said, but yes, they are over $100.00! eeek! If I weren't using it I would just mail it to you."

Money is becoming an issue now because my husband is semi-retired and will be be fully retired in less than a year. Neither of us have pensions. We had to replace the side deck this spring as it was only meant to be temporary and was there for 10 years. The money always went for something else. You know how that goes. In the past 3 years the fridge died, the microwave died, the washing machine blew it's motor.... on and on it went.

Lynn

We would easily need a 5g bucket of it but it may be worth looking into. Thanks for the idea. :-)

Yes. I understand the picture. Where does one find aluminum shaped like that? There would still need to be some kind of slats to keep rain out of the fan. I wish I could see some pics of how someone with a Rion added an exhaust fan.

I saved the pic to show my husband as he would be the one doing the work.

Hi Lynn,

That box fan comes with shutters. I'm guessing it's the same fan used for attics in homes. Very common.

Framing whether it's level or not is always entirely possible. You need a level, the hardware, caulk; maybe this glazing material Dave suggested, etc - those are good diagrams stressbaby drew up. Just moving air around in a greenhouse with a fan doesn't do very much work. You need to exchange the air (replace it). All this takes is a sturdy frame and you guys will figure a way to achieve this. I had a young kid at Radio Shack hand me something yesterday and said, "you'll figure it out and if you don't you can always call me." You're relying on common sense for the most part. And, saving a buck where possible.

The weight of the fan, the stength of the new frame, that's what you're seeking to accomplish. If you guys are able to tilt the fan a little too in order to aim it toward the floor shutters, that too is a real good idea for sure.

Thanks Dave. We're chillin' here in Rock Island but I'm moving 40 miles south to a little farming community called Aledo in Illinois still.

For those of you that didn't see my previous photo on another thread, this is what I'm adding in addition to the deck which is pretty much a big shade cloth itself. My mom put a window in the basement south wall that can be utilized to exchange cool air from the basement and so I can see in the greenhouse from down there too. The window doesn't take up any greenhouse wall room whereas a sliding glass door would have. I walk outside from a slider door, a little sink will be right in the basement corner (illegally) - as it will drain right outside onto a hillside so I can wash off, and that's about it.

It's gonna be swank!

Later,

Dax

{{gwi:300350}}

We're going to look into something with shutters. So far all I saw were huge heavy noisy expensive whole-house fans. There's only one setting - high. We'll keep looking.....

I have to admit, I have never worried about the heat in my greenhouse. I have no time to shuttle plants back and forth from the greenhouse every season so I just add about 50% shade using wood lath from the Box Stores, adding plenty of air movement, keeping all vents, doors, and screens opened, and watching moisture levels...HOT? you bet. But the plants don't seem to mind and grow like crazy! Heat is just an inevitable side effect of growing in a greenhouse. I'd worry more about sunburn.

Dave
Milwaukee

Using wood lathe? How do you attach it? Any pictures? Also, how about starting a new thread? This one is so long it takes ages to download.

On the Harbor Freight, I can use loose wood lath on the roof without attachment. I lay them parallel to the rafters on both sides of the roof. they are cheap and effective. I have to replace some every year, but at about 6 bucks per bundle it is such a minor expense. They are surprisingly stable and don't blow off in some of our windstorms. I like them because they can added or removed to increase or decrease the shading simply by removing or adding a few. I do not know if this would work on the Rion models though.

But this is one of the reasons I opted for the HFGH. It seemed to be most like standard aluminum greenhouse construction.

Dave
Milwaukee

Greenhouses are especially good for sprouting seeds this time of year. Seeds love the hot atmosphere and sprout quickly. Plus, they are acclimated to the heat so you can keep them on the gh as long as you keep them liberally watered.

You might want to check W.W. Grainger. They have or used to have a number of shutter mounted fans. I have bought in the past Gable end shuttered exhaust fans with auto shutters for less than $100.00

Shutters are less bulky, but they are difficult to insulate, and you don't want to loose any more heat than you have to. Think about using the same thing used for reflective shade cloth as curtains for the windows.

The best reflective shade cloth is called Temptrol and it reflects 95% of the heat. That is better reflectivity than even radiant barrier paint. In a hot climate, have it with the foil side facing out, and in a cold climate, have it with the foil side facing in to keep the heat in. It's also permaible for air and moisture. Go to the link and they will send you a free sample.

Here is a link that might be useful: reflective fabric

Greenhouser,
If you are concerned with mounting the fan ON THE FRAME why don't you explore of using A fan mounted INSIDE THE GREENHOUSE. Not on the frame, but free standing. Then you would only have to make a hole in the panel. You could connect the fan and the hole with A/C ducting. It might not be lovely, but it probably would work.
1. hole in panel
2. A/C duct from hole to
3. louver mounted fan on a free standing arrangement inside the GH. Try and think INSIDE THE BOX.
1eyedJack and the Dawg