Can't decide which greenhouse to get for year round use, cold climat
fireweed22
7 years ago
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fireweed22
7 years agoRelated Discussions
I can't get ahead... plans for next year
Comments (23)I have bad soil, half your garden size, and it greatly improved for things not effected by juglone, squash, corn, melons, etc. You wouldn't believe the size difference of the year before, so I'll always compost or at least throw leaves all over garden area. All you have to do is dump bags of leaves about a foot or two high over the whole garden area, maybe mow them to speed up decomposition, and you will have given your garden lots of great leaf mold, plus you already have your manure. I think the manure could be new because it can age all year before you throw it down. I wouldn't waste the manure until about a month or 2 before planting, or maybe even half at the end of the year, save the other half at the beginning, but some in the middle of the year too. I've got beds for next year, waiting to put them in, but I'm waiting for the leaves to fall and looking into local pastures for manure. I couldn't give advice on weeds being I'm going to plant some good weeds over the area until the beds are in. Try ragweed, dandelion with the flowers pruned off, yellow dock, and a few other deep rooted types of weeds that bring nutrients to the top of the soil. They will make good compost....See MoreSolar pool cover year round in hot climate?
Comments (19)My goodness, this thread takes me back in time! Mighty_turf, I ended up not using a solar cover on my 10x12 HFGH (decided my climate really didn't require it) so I am no help on best places to purchase. I believe conventional wisdom is that most heat loss in a greenhouse occurs through the roof. If I were to purchase one I'd definitely cover the roof, and probably lap it down the sides a bit, depending on the size I ended up ordering. Hopefully others here will have more specifics for you. If not, I'd consider starting a new thread with your specific questions about solar pool covers, to get a few more eyeballs on your questions. (Sometimes newer threads get more attention...?) Happy New Year!...See More100 year old house, cold climate, retrofit to in-floor heat?
Comments (9)I can't speak to the in-floor radiation, although it sounds marvelous. We just did a retrofit of our 1910 whole-house hot water heat using the original castiron radiators. To our surprise and continuing delight, a new German high-efficiency direct-vent boiler with Triangle hot water heater has saved us over 50% each month over our old bills. We now have tons of heat, and we're in Maine. Do make sure that your original cast-iron radiators aren't repipable before replacing them? They don't make 'em like that any more, etc etc. For the addition, that's always tough. We removed a radiator in our kitchen, but made up for it a wee bit by relocating the laundry room directly below it in the basement. I'd kill for in-floor in my kitchen, but it is indeed terribly expensive. Up to you to decide what the priority is -- it certainly would be a very understandable outlay in cold climates like ours, and potentially could be paid for by the expected savings with the new boiler?...See MoreHelp Deciding Which Greenhouse to Choose
Comments (16)It is going through its first winter, and so far the winter has been mild. Also I am only using it as an unheated greenhouse to overwinter some plants. So, I can't offer much useful info for you. As far as wall material is concern, I think almost all brands use similar materials. I opted for a TwinWall thickness to maximize the heat insulation property. I put a piece to styrofoam to cover the Side Louver Window in winter. It would appear that the main heat loss would be between the wall panels and the structural frame, but I did not apply caulking there thinking that it may make panel replacement problematic in the future. In retrospect, my only regret so far is I should have gone for the Grandio for a 20 ft long greenhouse. I looked at the pictures of its structural design and it is a far more stronger design, but I don't know what is the quality of their structural components. However, for a 12 ft long (8'+4' ext), it is probably OK for the Palram. The Palram design is very clever for ease of installation with reasonably good precision components. Hope this help....See Moreplantladyco
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