IMO oak leaf litter is a superb mulch. I started off using it with acid-loving plants because I have an alkaline soil. I was under the illusion that it would be beneficial in that situation. Well it is, but it doesn't do anything one way or the other for pH. When broken down it is neutral just like other decomposed mulches and composts. Pine needles, too, darn it. I now use it on a bed that includes blueberries, roses, and assorted perennials. They all look very healthy. In my area we mostly have coast live oaks but valley oaks ought to be good, too. If the leaves are big (I don't think they are), then run over them with a mower to break them up. And if you don't have a good place to use them, put them in your compost bin. What you do not what to do is mix them into the soil. They need to be on top, or in a compost bin breaking down. Just don't waste them. They are gold for the garden. BTW, did you know that oak trees will be healthier if they have oak leaf litter below them? The leaf litter supports the correct soil microbes for California oak health. Grass-type mulches do not work well for oak trees. It might be that your neighbor could get a permit to prune the part of the tree that overhangs your property so that it doesn't represent a hazard to you. I suspect they won't be allowed to remove the entire branch, but they could shorten and lighten it so it is less likely to break off and fall. Who would pay for this work the two of you could work out together. Maybe 50-50 split. Rosefolly

Egganddart49, We both are using almost the same kind of leaves, thus we have a great example of what the leaves are doing and how different zones interact with basically the same kind of leaves. To me, gardening is about "point of view", how you look at it if you will. When I look at what you are saying this is what I see: Your zone is cooler than mine, thus you will have slower decomposition in your garden. The leaves you put down in the winter sat there due to low temperatures. What the leaves did is act like a security blanket for your garden. When rain or snow piled up on the leaves the water seeped through, not flowed. As the water seeped in it took some of the nutrients from the leaves into the soil with it. Because of the limiting effect of the leaves you suffered less leaching in your soil, this causes you to need less amendments for your plants. As well, you added nutrients from the leaves all winter long, this is a very good thing. When spring came you had to move those pesky leaves out the way, but what did you find underneath? You discovered soft tender soil, moist and happy that you are the owner of the garden. They proved their gratitude by giving you a good crop, and paid you back by making sure you did less work in the process. Shoot, if you stopped concerning yourself with how many leaves are still there and focus on what you want to better improve next years crop who knows what you will end up with. Now ole Blutranes on the other hand lives where it is mild in the winter. His mulch gets chomped on by the microbes the minute it gets warm enough outside. By spring most of his leaves are gone, but his soil is ready to go too. Blutranes enjoys the same benefit you enjoy, water seeps into his soil too; he gets those minerals from his leaves as well. Blutranes can plant earlier, but Egganddart can still grows just as good as Blutranes can in less time. They both are given extra time for other things due to some leaves they put on their gardens. Blutranes is sitting at his computer looking for more wisdom from others to use that extra time on. Egganddart can now make a decision what Egganddart wants to pull outta Eggs' hat next. Work in the garden is good, less work even better IMO. I conclude that you have discovered a way to do more with less and save some money, and get a mater or two out the deal. Sounds like a plan over here Blutranes

You can apply any mulch material almost anytime of the year, although winter in Maine would be a time that probably would not be a good. A thin layer of mulch is about as good as no mulch, any mulch layer should be in the 3 to 4 inch depth range. Whether to add some lime depends on whether your soil needs it. What is the soils pH? How much lime, and what kind, might be needed? I am aware of the many "gardeners" that tell us that northeast soils are acidic and need lime and then throw a handful of lime on the planting bed, something that really does little to change the soil pH although it may make on4e3 feel good about doing something. If Alfalfa pellets are to be used they should be put down before the mulch material. kimmq is kimmsr

The plants are not biennial the individual canes are effectively biennial, as in deteriorating after fruiting. But there are two different growth modes within that general pattern: the conventional mode where a new cane grows its main stem the first year, then produces side branches that flower and fruit the second year. After which it can be removed. And then there is the second, so called everbearing mode where the first year canes go ahead and produce flowering side branches in the upper part of the cane that first year. Followed the second year by additional side branches appearing and another round of fruiting taking place. 'Heritage' is the flagship cultivar for those kinds that fall within the everbearing category. With it having been suggested that this one is sufficiently vigorous that if the second year crop is not needed 'Heritage' can even be managed by mowing it off with a lawn mower set on high each autumn. Thereby making trellising and selective pruning unnecessary.