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Craftsman Lawn Tractor Won't Start

15 years ago

I have a 18HP Kohler engine 42" Craftsman lawn tractor model 917.272420 that will not start. When I turn the key there is no click....no hum...nothing. I have replaced the fuse and the solenoid and the PTO switch and have charged the battery. Any ideas what else this could be or what test I can do to figure it out. Thanks so much in advance.

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Comments (4)

bill_kapaun
15 years ago
You can download an owners manual here with a schematic- page 33/64
http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0103373.pdf

It appears you aren't getting 12V to the B terminal of the ignition switch.
I'd check the connector first to make sure it didn't vibrate loose.

You might try jumping 12V directly from the battery to the starter solenoid to see if the engine cranks, to test the battery.
mownie
15 years ago
cecr, download the PDF manual as suggested by Bill. Look at the schematic. As Bill said, try "jumping" from the battery positive cable on the solenoid to the small terminal (WHITE wire post). If this makes the solenoid engage and motorize the starter, there is nothing amiss with these 2 items and the defect is "upstream". Using a 12 volt test light or a multimeter (set to DC volts scale) check for voltage at the white wire on ignition switch WHILE the switch is turned to the start position. If you have no voltage on the white wire (while in start position) the ignition switch is defective. If you have voltage present on the white wire (in start position), the ignition switch is good. Next you need to find the clutch/brake safety switch. Beware that in the process of performing any of these tests, your movement of the wire connectors could restore a loose fitting connection and suddenly cause the starter to begin turning. The clutch/brake pedal must be pushed down completely and locked before doing the testing. While holding the ignition switch in the start position, check for voltage on the 2 white wires of the clutch/brake switch. If the switch is defective (or not being properly actuated) you will have voltage present at only one white wire. If the switch is not mounted securely in its fixture, or has become "out of adjustment", it might act like it's defective also. Be sure that the switch is secured properly. If you find the switch is properly mounted and voltage is present at BOTH white wires, the defect is in the wiring or connectors somewhere between the clutch/brake switch and the small white wire post on the solenoid.
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I take it that the engine does not even TRY to start, but just spins when the starter is engaged. You need to make the test that mownie suggested. There are probably more safety interlocks than just the seat switch, and one of them could be "shorting" out the system. There is likely one on the clutch/brake pedal, and another on the PTO lever (the one that engages the blades), and one on the shift mechanism (to prevent starting if the transmission is in gear.) Testing these will require a multimeter. There is also a ground wire from the engine to the frame; typically on Husqvarna/AYP/Electrolux/Roper machines, it is a rather small black wire that is attached to the underside of the tractor frame just below the engine and inside the right front wheel. You've likely got a bad magneto or (more likely) either an electrical short caused by chafed insulation, corrosion, or loose connection, or a malfunctioning safety interlock switch. This all based on your being certain that there is no spark at the plug.
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Seat switch connector has a built in "shorting bar" which will close the kill circuit when the connector is unplugged from the switch. Unplugging the connector from the switch gives the same results as if the seat is not occupied. Seat switch is just one switch in the safety interlock circuitry that can cause the engine to have no spark. The brake pedal interlock switch is actually 2 switches in one assembly. One of the brake switches is dedicated to starter inhibition, and the other switch is to kill spark and stop the engine. The PTO switch also has a circuit dedicated to the kill wire. You can disconnect the kill wire from the magneto to see if that restores spark. If doing that restores spark, something is grounding the kill wire somewhere. Could be a chafed wire.
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With the new solenoid and a new key switch that pretty much leaves the PTO switch and the brake/clutch switch to test. You can test the white wires at the clutch/brake switch for the presence of 12 volts while the key is held in the start position and the PTO switch is in the engaged (blades ON) position and the clutch.brake pedal in the up position. With the PTO switch and the brake/clutch switch set as described...........only one white wire at the brake/clutch switch should be showing 12 volts (while key is in start position). If you do have 12 volts on 1 white wire at clutch/brake switch, press and hold the brake/clutch pedal down and check the other white wire for 12 volts. If no 12 volts, clutch/brake switch is defective. If you do have 12 volts on both white wires, the trouble is in the wiring that leads from the clutch/brake switch to the starter solenoid. If neither white wire at clutch/brake switch is showing 12 volts, you need to back track to the PTO switch and check the white wires on it. At the PTO switch, with the key in the start position, and PTO switch engaged as before, BOTH white wires should show 12 volts. If only 1 white wire shows 12 volts, defective PTO switch. If neither white wire on PTO switch shows 12 volts, the trouble is in the white wire between the key switch and the PTO switch.
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mownie
15 years ago
I somehow edited some sentences from my above post. I'll try again.
cecr, download the PDF manual as suggested by Bill. Look at the schematic. As Bill said, try "jumping" from the battery positive cable on the solenoid to the small terminal (WHITE wire post). If this makes the solenoid engage and motorize the starter, there is nothing amiss with these 2 items and the defect is "upstream". Using a 12 volt test light or a multimeter (set to DC volts scale) check for voltage at the B terminal on ignition switch. If you do not show voltage on B terminal, the problem is in the wiring between B terminal and the battery. If you do have voltage present on the B terminal of switch go to the next step. Check for voltage at the white wire on ignition switch WHILE the switch is turned to the start position. If you have no voltage on the white wire (while in start position) the ignition switch is defective. If you have voltage present on the white wire (in start position), the ignition switch is good. Next you need to find the clutch/brake safety switch. Beware that in the process of performing any of these tests, your movement of the wire connectors could restore a loose fitting connection and suddenly cause the starter to begin turning. The clutch/brake pedal must be pushed down completely and locked before doing the testing. While holding the ignition switch in the start position, check for voltage on the 2 white wires of the clutch/brake switch. If the switch is defective (or not being properly actuated) you will have voltage present at only one white wire. If the switch is not mounted securely in its fixture, or has become "out of adjustment", it might act like it's defective also. Be sure that the switch is secured properly. If you find the switch is properly mounted and voltage is present at BOTH white wires, the defect is in the wiring or connectors somewhere between the clutch/brake switch and the small white wire post on the solenoid.
bill_kapaun
15 years ago
Just turning the key to the ON position should energize the fuel solenoid, causing it to click.
Run with lights sould give you lights.

Had a similar problem on another forum where the wire to the B terminal was broken inside the insulation right at the key switch connector.

IF this tractor has the ammeter, you might ty jumping across it. It's a series device, so you won't hurt anything.

You did hook the small RED wire back up to the starter solenoid didn't you?

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