hello, ilossened up entire an 8 foot disk last year witha setaline torch. i kinda dought u just have a seteline torch laying around but u could prolly do a job like that with just a plumber's torch. the only thing is if the axle has lube, grease or gasoline any where near it there is a fire danger...this is definetly a job for a full ploy face mask or a welders helmet. if u used wd-40 or anything like that yes it will catch on fire but it woulnt explode to the extend that gass will...wd-40 could possibly help to heat up the inside of the joint as it burns. i would suggest trying to drive the machine with out the bolts as the previous poster said first and this as ur last result. do not heat the metal to hot as it can get so hot that it becomes brittle and breaks easily(should only be problem with a larger torch. also make sure u dont melt ur tires(deflating and removing them wouldnt be a bad idea). if u have any qpestions about this just post them...ill be checking back.

Start with a good penetrant like Kroil or PB Blaster and blast this area every day for about a week. Now get out a torch and heat the area. Drive them out either from the top down or bottom up. (whichever way they want to come out) Don't forget that these are also held in by a setscrew.

Brian, see my reply under Troy Bilt Horse Tiller Assistance.REJ2.

bagsprc - I think the HH60 is the engine serial number, not the tiller number. But, no matter. Try this: Lift up the flat-tire side of the tiller and set a concrete block under it, so that the flat tire is held off the ground. Take one of those load-securing straps that has a ratchet mechanism to tighten it down, and place the strap around the tire; tighten the hell out of it, so that the bead of the tire is squished out against the wheel. (If you don't have such a strap, try a rope as farmerboybill suggested - however, it's hard to pull the rope tight enough.) Using a compressor or a portable air tank, put air into the tire; the object here is for air pressure to force the tire beads against the wheel tight enough to seal. Sometimes it helps to remove the core from the valve stem, in which case you have to put a simple nozzle on your air hose - if you do it this way, you'll lose some air while you reinsert the core, but the beads should hold. If you are able to seat the beads and the tire holds air, then you're good to go. If you seat the beads but the tire looses air, then try putting Slime into it, rotate the tire a number of times, and air it up again. HOWEVER, if you can't get the beads to seat, you've got 3 options; turn the tiller over on its side and see if you can insert a tube with the wheel still on the tiller, or remove the wheel and install a tube OR load the tiller up and take it to a tire repair shop. At this point, I personally would head for the tire shop. Good luck removing the wheel - it's probably going to be quite a job. Punch the pin out, and the wheel is ready to slip off the axle - but it won't. It's probably rusted in place. Try P-Blaster, tap on the wheel with a hammer, spray it again, let it soak overnight, tap it some more - work it, work it, work it. If you've got a torch, try heat. Good luck. If you do ever get it off, put anti-seize on the axle before you reinstall it. If you get the wheel off, put a tube in the tire.