High phosphorus definitely came from the crab and lobster shells

Since they didn't tell you what the phosphorous measure was on either test, for all you know they have changed their standards or the way they test. Or perhaps you were at 0.9555 "phosphorous's," and that was high, but 0.96 phosphorous's is considered excessive. You can't tell much from their test. I'd forget about it. Furthermore, the recommendation for potash is fairly insignificant at 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet (for us USAers). Unless you are growing crops that require high potassium, I'd forget about that, too. Keep doing what you're doing.

Phosphorus comes from many sources including compost and other forms of organic matter. The shellfish waste would contribute adequate levels of Calcium without the addition of the Calcitic Lime. What this is telling you is to be more carefull in what you add in the future, not necessarily that your soil is going bad. That soil test is a guide, a tool, to help you maintain soil fertility and while a good periodic soil test is necessary keep in ind that it is one tool to use, not the ultimate guide.

That's it for lobster and crab shells for a few years, then..

Here is the analysis given. Any of these numbers stand out?

Everything we grow is healthy but very slow growing. I figure ntrogen is the big limiting factor but thought excess phosphorus or low potassium might not help either. The soil is very sandy despite what we put in.

2002
(kg/ha)
P2O5 695
K2O 470
Ca 1562
Mg 342
Na 204
(ppm)
Fe 99
Mn 23
Cu .62
Zn 4.5
B 6.43

2008
(kg/ha)
P2O5 1966
K2O 255
Ca 6909
Mg 638
Na 95
Sulfur 44
(ppm)
Al 1183.11
Fe 170
Mn 59
Cu 1.70
Zn 14.4
B 13.12

Salt(mhos x) .22
CEC 22.4

If the soil you have is sand then it will always be sand, just like mine. Your aim is to try to maintain an adequate level of organic matter in that sand, somewhere between 5 and 8 percent. Nitrogen is kind of tricky to manage since the N availabilty is dependant on your soil temperature and generally the warmer the soil the more N available, because the warmer the soil the more active (if you have a good, healthy soil) the Soil Food Web.

Whoa on the wood ash due to it's liming effect. I wouldn't want to raise the pH much higher. I'd look at alternate sources for phosphate.

You're right about the wood ash - what was I thinking. A source of potash without phosphorus or liming effect is a puzzle. There's a big vein of greensand less than half a mile from here but not accessible by truck, and I've just read that it is a liming material as well. We have hens, but poultry manure contains more phosphorus than potash. Seaweed maybe. Granite dust is so slow to act that ATTRA says it's not worth using.

The Rodale encyclopedia lists 'molasses residue in manufacturing alcohol' as having an NPK of .70/0/5.32...

If soil needs to be warm to make best use of nitrogen then that explains a lot. We've been having long cool summers.

Paulns,

After watching your thread it occurred to me that your answer could be found at the very site you referred me to a short time ago. From the Journey To Forever website:

"In addition to carefully recorded field observations, an extensive range of sample analyses (soil and products) was carried out by the consultant bio-chemist, Dr. R.F. Milton. These included analyses for available plant nutrients in every field every month for a period of over 10 years."

Since there has been a study that specifically targets "soil tests" every month for over a 10 (ten) year period, one would think this would be proof enough of the validity concerning the outcome of using an organic gardening technique. Nonetheless, the study then goes on to state:

"On the Organic Section, which received no fertilizers, the fluctuation was so marked that, for example, in the field with the highest humus content and the longest history of no chemicals, as much as 10 times more available phosphate has been recorded in the growing period of the year than in the dormant period. Potash and nitrogen followed the same general pattern. It was clear, from the fact of the closed cycle, that this seasonal release of minerals could only have been brought about by biological agencies, and it appears to be a natural action-pattern of a biologically active soil."

This is the same exact finding you are experiencing with your garden. To claim it is a "fluke" or the result of an "unreliable soil test" is a bit silly to be kind. Since you were the one to point this site out, I was sure you had harvested this information for your own knowledge base. Might I suggest, when you get the time, to review the link below and go about the business of growing your garden with limited concern (when weather permits of course). In the mean time, I shall get back outside and finishing preparing my new mulching stock based on the new "Tiffy" technique she shared with the communityÂ

Blutranes

Here is a link that might be useful: Towards a Sustainable Agriculture -- The Living Soil

"as much as 10 times more available phosphate has been recorded in the growing period of the year than in the dormant period."

Then our 2008 results are worse than I thought, since December is the beginning of dormant season here - the ground will have frozen a couple of times, at least the upper inch or two, at a time when you are probably still in a tee shirt and SPF 40. :)

...and swatting pests, I meant to add.

"when you are probably still in a tee shirt and SPF 40"

20°C and rain (finally!) here with all the bugs too. I am glad to see all the honeybees; they were in short supply last year so at least all the peach trees will get pollinated. I am going to have to hill up my potatoes real soon, that BIM juice really works well, so far. Sorry about all the frost and frozen ground; so when will you be able to get out there and get your knees dirty?

BTW, maybe you should have a talk with Annpat; she might be suffering from cabin fever or something...

Blutranes

A few years ago we had 2' of snow on the garden May 8. It's -9C tonight. Kills the bugs.
I'm always glad to hear about honeybees.