I don't mean to be discouraging, but if you planting plants that like sand don't add the compost stuff and the worms. Don't buy and add worms, just put the stuff in a bin and compost it. The worms will come. You will need some bagged browns to fill out that soil, then you can you can plant plants that want rich soil. If you just dump a lot of greens in the ground, I don't think it is going work out very well, unless you want to wait to plant for a few years.

Several points:

1. Is the manure composted or relatively fresh? I think that's what Tropical is getting at. If it's manure compost, add all you want. If it's still hot, or has been sitting but there was too much high-carbon bedding that was not broken down, beware.

2. AGreed that adding worms is not a good expenditure. If the conditions are right, they will come. If not, the ones you add will leave or die.

3. Bare root plants are fine IF you keep them watered while they develop a root system, and don't let them dry out and get fried.

Good luck!

PS What is 'bank run' sand exactly?

Upon reflection 200 is a lot of plants, what kind of plants are they? I would suggesting planting some cheap annual 6 packs of plants that only cost a few dollars first to test out the soil before investing in plants that cost a lot of money and may die due to adverse conditions. I have seen many people spend big bucks on all new plants all at once, to have them all die. I would just go get one bush, and plant that, let that sit there and think about what to add next, instead of tossing a huge amounts of plants in there at all once. I once made the mistake of buying five roses at once due to clearance sale and my soil was not good and they all died.

bankrun sand is similar to jv982 experience. I can't describe it much other than looking at his photos and knowing that is what we have.

the manure is composted, been sitting for over 6 months according to our neighbor farmer. they told us that everyone uses it for garden beds.

so if I used the composted manure and coffee grounds and put it in the sand, I should not use the worm method?

we have planted a few trees over the past few years and they all took, so I am "hoping" my plants will also. I am just checking with the experts here to make sure it is a correct method.

Here is a link that might be useful: jv982's photos

If you mean the worm method, it won't work to dump the coffee and the worms in the ground. They must go in a worm bin. There is a worm forum here on garden web called Vermicomposting where you could learn more about the worm method.

What I am gathering from your photos is that you don't have natural sandy soil, you have put a lot of sand there. What kind of soil do you have sandy or clay? If you have clay and add sand that is bad. If you have sand and add sand that is just strange, you should have added a bunch of OM instead, dug that in and then planted the lawn. They asked you about the builders sand, it could be high in salt. I would have a professional soil test done at this point to see if you did any damage by adding sand. I would not buy 200 plants and plant them until you fix up your soil. Worm composting will not make a huge amount of compost fast. Worm composting is a kind fun thing to do, but it generates very little using compost.

I am glad I looked up Van Hoorn, because they sell hostas. Hostas do not like sand, they like compost. I should know I grow them. If you want to buy 200 hostas you need to dig in a lot of compost, and they like a lot of water also. I thought you were growing plants that like sandy such as California Natives for a dry landscape. Go to the hosta forum and learn about how to care for hosta. Here are my hostas.

Here is a link that might be useful: My hosta photos

Many "landscapers" and some "horticulturists" will come in and plunk down a thin layer of soemthing they call "topsoil" and plant and then for the next several years you try, diligently, to keep the plants from dying spending a lot of money on fertilizers and sprays to keep insect pests and plant diseases from consuming those plants.
Better is to take the time now to make the soil you have into a good, healthy soil that will grow strong and healthy plants that can better resist insect pests and plant diseases. Your soil should be well endowed with organic matter so it is evenly moist but well drained. While animal manure can add nutrients it does need more vegetative waste to help hold those nutrients in the root zone and provide a home to the Soil Food Web that will be feeding those plants.
If your soil is sand the organic matter will fill in the very large pore spaces between the sand particles which will help hold both nutrients and moisture in the soil. If you have clay soil that same organic matter will open up spaces between the soil particles so your plants roots can move around and find both the nutrients and moisture that are now more readily available.
Perhaps these simple soil tests might be of some help.
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.
A good, reliable soil test, maybe from your state universities Cooperative Extension Service would also be a good idea.

I re read your post again and it said you are looking for plants to plant in sunny conditions. Hostas don't like sun at all, they like shade. I forgot to mention this. No amount of compost and water will make hostas like sun.

I would focus on buying plants that like the soil conditions that you have, rather than trying to create soil conditions for certain plants.

You've got a zone 5 in your header? What state?

Think native. My first plant suggestion asclepias tuberosa.

Here is a link that might be useful: asclepias tuberosa

I agree with joepyeweed - focus on plants that are well-suited to your conditions. That said, I have a few suggestions.

1) Make sure the different layers of fill (e.g. topsoil, sand) are integrated with your native soil. Moisture has a difficult time moving through differing soil profiles.

2) Very few plants will grow in pure sand. Even if you want to maintain a lean soil, you'll do well to amend it with organic matter - just don't overdo it. I would suggest using pine bark fines or pine bark "soil conditioner" - these will break down much more slowly than compost, manure etc.

3) If you have the patience, amend your soil with organic matter now and then plant cover crops. A warm-season cover crop could be planted this spring (clover or buckwheat), tilled-in come September, and then another cover crop (winter rye and hairy vetch) could be planted in mid-September and will over winter. Next spring, you can till the rye/vetch and you'll have some excellent soil to work with.

4) Prior to planting, pull a soil sample and have it tested - preferably by a reputable private lab. Amend your soil accordingly.

Above all, the investment in preparations you make now will pay dividends for years to come.

Good luck!