growing astilbe from bare root
elmerweird
15 years ago
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laceyvail 6A, WV
15 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
15 years agoRelated Discussions
question about growing asparagus bare root?
Comments (10)Toothpick-width shoots are totally normal for the *first* year growing from seed. Obviously, you're not going to eat these. If they're growing well, they should put out two or three shoots by the end of the year. Mine grew only about 6 inches tall. By the end of the first year, under the ground there should be a well formed crown with next year's shoots already visible, but tiny and dormant. This is what is typically shipped as a one-year old crown. Sometimes they will even call it a two-year crown since it is its second year of growth when shipped. But some vendors actually do sell crowns that are really two years old, so you need to know what you're ordering if it says two-year old crowns. The second year of growth after planting from seed you will still not want to pick any spears. They should be considerably thicker and should grow at least two feet tall. Just let them grow and feed them as you might other vegetables. I haven't seen the third year yet but from what I understand this is when you can start picking, but only on a limited basis. You're not into full production yet. My feeling is that I would only take one batch of spears from any plant and then leave them to grow into mature plants....See MoreRepotting dracaena fragrans: bare root or not bare root.
Comments (4)I have no idea about the pics, though blog.com has a reputation for a lot of down-time. Thanks for letting me know! If you click again another time, hopefully it will work better. Hard to complain much about a free thingie, so I won't. Sorry it frustrated you! The pics here are of a diff plant, but the very same principle. " I am wondering if there's a way to have loose airy soil that that also have enough nutrients without frequent fertilizing." Generally yes, a bigger pot/more volume of soil mix. I would forego the styro & compost. The styro will just cause you to need to water (and repot) more often. Fertilizer is much more efficient at delivering nutrients in a pot which is not a large enough environment for the natural decomposition process to appropriately sustain/fortify plants. Also, as decomposition happens, the result is tiny, water-logged, airless particles (mud.) More about soil/watering. A Dracaena grows so slowly, an occasional dose of weak fertilizer should be more than enough even in the leanest (nutritionally) mix. The mix you described, or any with 30% compost would be too dense for my confidence. The goal of a coarser, grittier mix is to eliminate tiny particles of any type, peat, sand, clay, silt. Think moist particles that have some tiny air spaces between them so there is also oxygen, even when saturated to capacity. It's going way beyond my area of experience to give you a specific recipe since I break the rules I espouse but there are a glut of discussion here about this. I would follow the advice established in those. It gets perpetuated because it works well for so many people/plants. There is a pic of such a mix here, in post dated Wed, Oct 20, 10 at 9:45....See Morehow deep to plant bare root astilbe????
Comments (2)I have about four or five that I planted last year that I just dug a hole deep enough for the root ball to fit. An inch of soil covering it should be plenty enough. I gotta tell you, these things REALLY LOVE the shade! I wound up moving them all to complete shade last year because the ones I already had in the shade were out performing the ones in part sun. They create nice foliage and the one that was in complete shade is already about 14 inches wide and 10 inches tall (without the flowers..no flowers on it yet)....See MoreGrowing new bare-roots in containers in AZ summer heat?
Comments (16)tinman, I am a Master Rosarian in north Phoenix. Perhaps I can help you. As you've guessed, bare root season in Phoenix ended in mid-February. Any bare root rose you purchased after that date had less than 50% chance of growing enough to protect it from hot temps, hot soil, hot water, etc. Bare roots purchased now will have 25% or less chance without some major work. First, no more ground planting until after Oct 1. The soil is so hot right now, that feeder roots will cook. Use the largest light-colored container, with excellent drainage, a rose-planting mix and plan to place the bush and container in the shade, preferably on the patio. You'll not only need to water the bush every day but you may need to erect shade cloth over it. My recommendation would be to create a little shade structure using part of your covered patio. You can purchase outside roller shades that produce the same effect and don't look quite so ugly. These are weighted shades that can resist some monsoon winds. Better to roll them up before the dust moves in, though. Don't feed those roses until after Oct 1. The planting mix will have enough nitrogen to give the roots a boost through the summer. Too much nitrogen will just cook them. Soak the bare roots for up to 24 hours in a 5-gallon bucket of water with several drops of SuperThrive. You can continue to use SuperThrive at least once a week throughout the summer. Unfortunately, you'll also need to mist these bare roots every day until they leaf out. There are several methods of erecting shade structures for established roses but all need to be weighted in order to withstand the monsoon winds. Trellises need to be galvanized, powder-coated or redwood for best results in heat and dry. The trellis should be attached to the wall with at least 4-6 inches of airflow between. You can accomplish this by using a 4x6 block between the trellis and wall and using masonry bolts to anchor. There are plastic polypropylene trellises but they don't last any longer than a lawn chair made of the same stuff. I start most of my bare root climbers in a large (20-24") container and use a tomato cage to hold up the canes. I do the same for David Austin English Roses that droop and OGRs that do the same. You can also use a large/giant tomato cage and shade cloth to create individual shade structures for these bare-roots. Attach the shade cloth with twist ties, shower curtain hooks, or some such. You'll need to weight the shade cloth down with bricks, pavers or similar. Leave some type of access to get water and mist inside the shade area. Next Phoenix Rose Society meeting is Tuesday, June 20, 6:30pm, at the Valley Garden Center, 1809 N 15th Ave, Phoenix (between Thomas and McDowell Roads). It's the potluck before we take a summer break in July and August. You can also find me at the public rose garden most Saturday mornings at about 9am. During the winter, I'm there for several hours a week but during the summer, I may only drop by for a couple hours, 1-2 times a month....See Moreduluthinbloomz4
15 years agolinnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
15 years agosharoncl
15 years agorinomanfroni
13 years agos46reynolds_copper_net
12 years agobuyorsell888
12 years agoDexz7
11 years agooliveoyl3
11 years ago
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elmerweirdOriginal Author