Don't know if you tried contacting Troy Built Customer Service or MTD Technical Assistance and don't know if you are interested in new parts or seeing if your part is still available but here is some information I posted a few days ago following my search for older Model Troy Built model info: Thanks to Jim where ever Jim is, for the info. on my Troy Built engine. For any of you Troy Built owners who own older models and want to find out the exact model and year and maybe order an owner's and parts number - I received very good technical assistance today from the owner of Troy Built - MTD. According to MTD, Troy went bankrupt in 2001 and MTD bought them out and owns all manufacturing rights and obviously still produce the units. Parts and technical assistance is available at either the Troy or MTD website but I called 866-840-6483 and punched in a few options and then spoke to someone who referred me to techncial support. All manuals and parts lists are available on their website to down load but it takes for ever to print a manual - mine was 80 pages long.

Lary, These are forward rotating tine machines, not counter-rotating tines. All of the old Horses were this way. Bill, The number you posted is just a casting number, not the serial number. Look below the T-handle and clean all the gunk off to find a serial number. Parts that you need are readily available from a bunch of sources, including MTD (who took over for Troy Bilt) Jenice, If you have the 6HP Tecumseh engine, you dont have all of the model number. What you posted is the "spec" number. Your model number is most likely HH60. Use that model number, and you shouldnt have any problem finding the carb kit. The recoil starter may be a little bit harder to find.

TroyBilt went bankrupt a few years ago, and its assets were acquired by MTD. Present-day Troy Bilts are made by MTD. I understand that they are still supporting the old stuff. Go to the MTD web site and do a search. Also, if there is a local dealer who handles Troy Bilt, they should be able to help. Good luck.

starrah3, by now you may have given up on the "project", but in case you still are pursuing a solution I will try to "cover" some of the points in your last post. ...................................................... ***"adjuster balls (they feel a little loose when they are screwed onto the pivot screws"*** Well, they should "be free" enough to turn on the threads of the pivot stud, but they should NOT just "slide up and down" across the threads of the stud. Are the "set lock" jamb screws present (Refer to the "exploded illustration", one set screw per adjuster "ball")? If the "set lock" screws are missing, the adjuster ball will simply "unthread" itself during engine operation. ........................................................ ***"the rocker arm was wobbling all over the place"*** That one is a little hard to pinpoint exactly what you are "seeing". What you are describing sounds like the pivot stud is "loose in the cylinder head". If true, the stud might have "pulled the threads" out of its hole in the head. The repair procedure to "restore threads" is something that "can be done" by a DIY person BUT...If you do not already have the "tool kit" and the neccessary "inserts" to do this (and "most folks" DO NOT), you will be better off having it done in a machine shop or competent automotive shop. The thread restoring technique is usually called "Heli-coiling" or "Heli-coil insert repair". Heli-coil is just ONE trademark brand name and style of "insert style" thread restoration method. ........................................................... ***"I've heard that valves are generic, and need to be fitted to each engine"*** I certainly would like to have been present when that comment was offered to your ears. Generic? NO! Made to a "default factory standard or specification? Yes! In the case of your OHV engine, you will very likely be able to use the new valves "right out of the wrapper". The comment about "fitting to each engine", is only true in cases of "F-head" style engines, wherein "grinding the tip of the valve stem" is the ONLY way to affect proper valve lash adjustment (your OHV engine uses adjustable rockers to affect valve lash adjustment). Other instances where "custom fitting" of new valves might be required, would apply where the valve seat in the cylinder head was worn, cracked, or burned, and needed regrinding or replacement. I do not infer that your engine has a problem in the valve seats, so you should be able to just "pop in" a new valve and go. I do, however, suggest that you "check the contact pattern" of each valve and valve seat by doing a very light "valve lapping" procedure using valve lapping compound. Here again, you might want to relegate this to a competent shop (automotive or small engine type). Please post back with the "latest news".