I used to buy roses from S&W, who clearly tell you they only ship in February and aren't suited for colder climates. Being a zone pusher, I went ahead and tried it, using the technique that Mad Gallica talked about with putting the roses in a bag that stays slightly moist in the refrigerator. They all survived that method long enough to plant them out, but don't do this in a fridge that contains apples, because apples can interfere with some kinds of germination in seeds and I wouldn't risk it with roses. The two things I found I had to watch for with this method was: a) mold/mildew in the bag before they're ready to be planted out - if this happens, you need to reduce the moisture and clear away the mold, and perhaps move them outside earlier, and b) a clear tendency to canker or otherwise fail to thrive in their first summer. They might leaf out fine and start growing, but gradually have the canes die back from canker or verticullum wilt, and they wouldn't last the summer. A possible way to avoid this is a fungicide spray when planted, and/or my new method I'm trying to see if I can avoid wilt in bareroots - plant them with gypsum or epsom salts. You definitely want to get them outside as soon as the temperatures are back up into the 20's and not likely to go below zero any more. For me, this is the beginning of March, even before the ground fully thaws. My best strategy was to pull the bareroots out of the fridge after 2-3 weeks and plonk them in a large garden tub full of water, with the canes open above the water. Even when the water would freeze, it only did so in the first inch or so, and the remaining "pond" would stay liquid below the surface. This would provide some level of protection for those roots (and grafts) below the water, like the kind of protection the frozen ground provides below the frozen parts. Then you plant them out as soon as you can dig the hole - don't wait for your normal rose planting season. If you can't get the hole dug and the bareroots are starting to sprout, build yourself a temporary mound or pot somewhere outside with potting soil, so they can acclimate to the temperature and wake up when it's normal to wake up with the rest of your roses. Obviously, record cold temperatures and below zero is not the time to start outside acclimation, but 20's have worked fine for me. The other obvious point is that you need a full refund and replacement from this rose company. They goofed big time and they owe you full credit, even if the roses survive. Be firm and insist in every way you can, including denying the credit charges from your card if you have to go that route. Sympathies - but this can be survivable for the roses. Cynthia

Diane, If only I could travel there and bring back plants! It sounds like a really good nursery. I wish my local nursery could have stayed in business. They were very good about taking care of their plants and would hold bought/sold ones for customers if we couldn't take it home right away. Kitasei, I think BayAreaGirl and GardenGal answered really well. I would like to add that band size and gallon size roses are usually pot-culture roses (started from cuttings) and they should come well rooted. I've come to expect that it's pretty much a given that most places will sell you a potted up bare root (grafted or ownroot) early in the year. These will generally come in 2-3gal pots. I think you can tell they were originally bare roots from how thick the cane/crown/top growth is compared to the size of the pot they're in. Fully container grown roses of that size would not be able to thrive in that tight space. The top growth reflects the size of the roots, or in this case - the size the roots used to be. Bare roots can stay in those pots for a while because they need to regrow their roots, but they should quickly outgrow them. Now, if I saw a rose for sale in a 5gal (or larger) pot, then that would lead me to believe that it's been in the pot for a long while and has a big root system.

I have only two Austins (Golden Celebration and Darcey Bussell) on DH roots and they are planted in a spot with Sycamore root competition, which is probably the only reason I can grow them there. They both have spotless foliage. I am inland quite a bit and at 1800ft. We do get May-Gray and June-Gloom, but it burns off by between 10AM and noon. I have Paul Neyron, which is a rust bucket right next to Rein de Violettes with pristine foliage, never a spot of rust or mildew. All my Teas get a little mildew except Monsieur Tillier. My Lady of Shallot is on her own roots and does very well with perfect foliage. I really want Evelyn but now I am a little scared by the 12 foot canes jerijen mentions. I have Star of the Republic with only a couple blooms that have been scented and I really want scent in my roses so thinking about replacing with Evelyn. But will give SotR a 3rd year to see if those blooms get consistent scent. The 3 or so blooms that I caught with some scent were an amazing strong lemony fragrance. Maybe just doesn't give scent in the heat? I also have James Gallway on its own roots and near Golden Celebration but further from the sycamore. It is establishing more slowly and not behaving like a climber at all yet, next year with be year 3 so maybe I'll get long canes in the Spring.

In addition to possible drowning soaking non aquatic plants for extended periods results in nutrients within them leaching out into the water. And of course if the water used for the soaking is not quite pristine there is also the possibility of infesting the specimens being soaked with water molds. Roses are easy to grow once they are established. In recent years, I have had trouble with roses purchased from garden centers that would not grow when planted out. This may be because the plants were held too long in storage before coming to market. It is also imperative when first planting roses to frequently sprinkle the canes to avoid them drying out. Desiccation is a common killer of freshly harvested roses. Once buds “pop” and shoots emerge, culture can continue as with any garden plant providing appropriate moisture as needed. The contrarian rosarian–debunking rose mythology – The Garden Professors™