Your Centifolias, Damasks, Mosses, Albas, and Gallicas
Tessiess, SoCal Inland, 9b, 1272' elev
10 years ago
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portlandmysteryrose
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Do grafted gallicas and damask sucker?
Comments (9)If the graft is buried, a lot of roses will go own-root. An own-root Charles de Mills suckers. An own-root Charles de Mills will eat your garden unless stopped by a hard object like a lawnmower. Whether or not it's a good way to produce more roses depend on how many hundreds of more roses you want, and how well that particular rose sends out side roots along the long sucker roots. Charles de Mills actually isn't very good at that, so I usually have to dig up several feet of long root before anything fibrous shows up. OTOH, Mary, Queen of Scots seems to have fibrous roots practically at the bottom of every cane....See MoreAlba and Gallica roses in N. Texas
Comments (10)Albas and gallicas do great here, and I'm in a very hot and dry summer area. Low annual rainfall. Damasks do well here too (not surprising as they come from a very hot and dry part of the world). Very little winter chill. I don't know exactly how important this is (among various other contributing factors), but my elevation is higher than some who don't do well with these classes in Southern California and who actually have more winter chill than I do. Elevation being something to consider came to my attention after reading about it in a scientific paper written about damasks in the middle east. Another issue that I've been pondering for a while, is how much cultural practices in rose keeping in hot, dry locations, negatively affect the performance of particularly the albas, gallicas, and damasks. One thought that has occurred to me is that the "baseline" of care that is assumed for most roses in the majority of rose pr that has been given to the public over the years, has used the hybrid tea as the example to follow. So from years of information saturation, what the hybrid tea likes best appears to be the standard of care assumed to be ideal for all classes of roses, pretty much everywhere. Well, it ain't necessarily so that all roses like what hybrid teas do--which is lots of fertilizer and water, frequently applied. Think of other garden plants and consider how much variation there is in what the different ones prefer. For example, salvias. Many of the California native salvias are very drought tolerant and may die or just barely survive much summer water. They also don't care for being fertilized. Others however want a rich, moist soil. My albas, damasks, gallicas (and rugosas) are among my most drought tolerant of roses. Since I started with old garden roses, I never got into the "hybrid tea" mentality, and thus my roses have always been grown with only very light and infrequent feedings (sometimes no fertilizer for *years*), and low water. I didn't know until I started reading these and other forums in the last several years that I couldn't grow these roses! The roses recommended, mainly teas and chinas, have been disasters here. They stand out for wanting much more food and water than I'm accustomed to giving my other roses. Guess over the years I've been doing my own Earthkind trials.;) Josh, I don't know how closely your conditions resemble mine which is a mediterranean climate, but if it were me, and I was considering growing a new class or classes of roses, I'd look at where those roses come from and are happy, and how similar those conditions would be in my garden. Actually I would expect albas and gallicas to do well for me, and if they didn't I'd want to look into what I was doing to change the natural environment here into one they didn't like. I think such changes haven't happened because I'm basically a lazy gardener who just isn't into the effort and expense that would entail. Melissa...See MoreCan I have gallicas, albas, centifolias or damasks here?
Comments (6)The number of hours of winter chill, matter with the once blooming old European roses, I live c. 10 miles east of San Francisco, Ca and I think our climate zones may be similar. Temperatures here rarely get below 30 degrees above zero Farenheit, and if so, than at most for a week or so in total, and that every few years, however some of the Alba, Gallica and Hybrid China roses bloom very well here, -de la Grifferaie blooms gloriously for more than a month in spring, and the Apothecary Rose and Alba Semi-Plena have a shorter bloom cycle, but bloom fully. In Oakland, Ca I've grown Celsiana and La Ville de Bruxelles and both are extraordinary roses, for beauty of bloom. La Belle Sultane didn't bloom much for the first two years in my garden but now it is taking off and Luanne, my wonderful neighbor has an older plant that blooms fully and very beautifully. Her plant of 'The Bishop' is the healthiest and most beautiful of the once bloomers in her garden, it produces a bountiful display of red-mauve roses every year. If you want more ideas for Old European roses to grow with borderline winter chill, I suggest that you search the Internet to find out how many hours of winter chill you get each year and compare it with San Jose California and if they are close, then check the website of the San Jose Heritage Rose Garden, They list all the roses they grow. I've seen these blooming at san jose heritage and would grow them where I live: Belle Isis Nestor Felicite Parmentier de Meaux (also grown at the Berkeley Botanical garden) Mme Legras de St. Germain Belle Amour Konigin von Danemark James Mason (a modern Gallica) Gloire de Guilan although the garden is very hot in summer with temperatures in the 90's and triple digits, with few hours of winter chill, San Josee Heritage Rose Garden have dozens of the older European roses, most of these bloom during the weeks between: mid to late May through June most years. Best Wishes, Luxrosa If your garden has as much winter chill as Sebastopol California, then you might look at the list of roses that vintagegardens.com sells, as all of their mother plants are grown on site in that town....See MoreAny Suggestions on Rooting Moss, Gallica, Damask?
Comments (12)Robert, The Albas are particularly difficult creatures. Some varieties I have never managed to root cuttings of, after a decade of trying. ('Konigin von Danemark' comes to mind) A friend once told me that you can root Alba cuttings more easily if you allow the plant to experience a frost before taking wood, but this implies taking hardwood (Winter) cuttings only. The Gallicas and Damasks are quite a bit easier if you time things right. I found the easiest wood to root was one of two: flowering shoots as close to pencil thickness as possible, taken from the plant no more than 2 or 3 weeks after blooms have finished. It is important to take some of the heel on that cutting. In other words, using good secateurs, cut the shoot off the parent branch as close as you possibly can, keeping every millimeter of that shoot and retaining that thicker wood at its base. Its the wood at this branching point that will form callous most easily. The second choice (and with some varieties this worked better for me) I take the mid-Summer basal shoots once they have pretty much stopped growing at the tips and have started to harden (about mid-July in my climate) and I cut these up into 6" pieces, making the cut at the base about 1/4" below a bud eye. On the side opposite the bud eye, scrape the bark lightly to expose the cambium layer, a scrape 1/2 to 3/4" long. The sections that will root most easily will be the ones in the middle of the cane, for most varieties. I had the best success with either kind of cutting wood by placing these in Ziploc bags in soil that was damp but not sopping wet and placing these in a shady location. Some dappled morning or later afternoon light is OK, but no direct light at mid-day should be permitted. Left undisturbed, these should be ready to pot up in 3 to 5 weeks. Paul...See MoreTessiess, SoCal Inland, 9b, 1272' elev
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Tessiess, SoCal Inland, 9b, 1272' elevOriginal Author