Help! Troy Built trimmer won't run continously
zeroedn
14 years ago
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glenam
14 years agozeroedn
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Older Troy Built Tiller Model ID
Comments (35)Just purchased and old Horse. I had dig it out she'd. Here's numbers cast into what I think is the crank case. Th-1001-3 F1-89-39 Would to know the year and hp. I will download manual b4 I try to start it. Thank...See MoreNeed a small part for a Troy Built TB4000 trimmer
Comments (3)If you are careful that carb can be repaired. I just finished repairing a similiar problem on a Stihl Weedeater. What i did was force a very short piece of fuel line over the broken fitting end and used fuel resistant epoxy to hold it. I then inserted a straight fitting that i had to shorten into that short hose. I used a fitting from a windsheild washer kit. You can get the fittings separtly at any automotive parts place for less than a dollar each. I had nothing to lose doing it this way as a new carbuetor was 89 bucks plus shipping....See MoreStarter Rope replacement.....Troy-built Weed Eater
Comments (18)A youtube is at the site's address below on, "How to Remove a Trimmer Clutch". In this case, I can see a torque wrench is not necessary due to the clutch's hub is screwed down over the clutch and will keep the clutch tightened with a spanner wrench from spinning off. The spanner wrench will work for the Poulan's possibly but not as safe as the designed clutch wrench attached. "This article explains how to remove the clutch from most line and string trimmers. Tips are provided for removing tricky clutch drum screws. Here at eReplacementParts.com, one of the most common questions we receive about lawn trimmers is how to remove the trimmer clutch. Trimmer clutches need to be removed when replacing the clutch drum, replacing other clutch parts, and when the trimmer starter needs to be accessed for repairs, service, or replacement. Removing the clutch drum is a little tricky, because turning the clutch drum screw will only turn the piston unless the piston is somehow bound up. Detailed steps and pictures are included in this article that explain how to remove a trimmer clutch and how to keep that trimmer piston from spinning. Tools needed to remove a trimmer clutch: �h needle nose pliers �h screwdrivers �h #25 torx driver �h 3/4" socket and wrench �h adjustable spanner wrench �h a piece of nylon rope" http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/1771/How_to_Remove_a_Trimmer_Clutch.html...See MoreTroyBilt Trimmer Warranty - Out of Luck!
Comments (12)What I like about local power equipment dealers and Stihl is that you don't need the receipt. My dealer registers the sale for me. I believe I can take it anywhere and they can look up it's warranty info. I say I believe that because I think I have read someone else doing that. I have never had to do a warranty service on my 4 pieces of Stihl equipment in the 3 years I have had them. I don't know if any of the other makers do that. Unfortunately I stay away from the big boxes if possible. I hate ending up in situations like yours. Believe me, I have been there with my old Ryobi. $230 later and I still have a worthless trimmer in my shed that will go up on Craigslist for parts at best offer. Just today I drove thirty minutes out of my way to an equipment company that caters to arborists, fire, rescue, police and tactical professionals. What did I need? A wheelbarrow. The Jacksons, True Tempers and Ames are all fine but I got it in my head I wanted something with better than average rigidity and two wheels. I found a wheelbarrow online that fit that (Cariola) but they did not have a distributor and wanted a minimum order of two. So at this little hole in the wall, I was talking with the owner. He straight out told me that I could do better at the boxes for the generic wheelbarrows but I wanted to try to find something better. He said he could get me what I wanted but it would cost me $400, about what the other company wanted. He had a set of solid steel wheelbarrow handles but the rest of the kit had probably been parted out. I started to take measurements on the holes to see if I could get the feet fabricated and mount an aftermarket dual wheel setup. I noticed in the corner a box of mixed wheelbarrow parts from different manuf. that had be parted in the past. I eventually pieced together an almost perfect solid steel, two wheeled setup with zerk fitted bearing wheels. I almost went for the no-flat tires but they were $50 a piece, so I took the tubed versions. He was impressed with the cobbled beast and glad to have some parts out that he was never gonna sell. He said $150 and its yours. I have to bend a few pieces when I get home to make it all work. I have a place where I know I can get what I need for a reasonable price and no questions about warranty. Same with my power equipment dealer. I have a hardware store that is the same. Real old fashioned. The only thing they are missing is the squeaky wood floor. The garden counter people always have a cookie or chips for the kids when they come in. I don't do power tools there but anything else hardware related gets bought there. I'm not trying to say you were wrong to buy from the big box, just letting you know what you might find at a small dealer. There are some bad apples, but it can be like finding a good mechanic :)....See Moremasiman
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