Lamora, you are definitely not stupid! You have questions that need to be answered. You are unsure of some things and need re-assurance. Yes potting up during a stressful time isn't the greatest but you thought it was. And that's okay. Some tips for you :) The Spider Plant requires only light watering. Allow the soil to dry completely in between waterings. You only need to water the spider plant once every two weeks. If the foliage begins to show black tips or a yellow halo, you are probably over watering the plant. If the foliage begins to drop, the plant is ready for a drink. If the foliage begins to brown, try watering with distilled water. The Spider Plant has been known to have problems if there are chemicals in the water. Spider Plants prefer natural light, but do not place them in direct sunlight. If the leaves begin turning brown, try moving the plant out of the direct light. If the plant is kept within 5 to 8 feet of a window it should grow fine. Information i found is that they like loose airy soil as well. So although you recently repotted the plant check to see if the soil its in is really dense. if it is, unpot it and add some perlite to the mix and pot it back into its pot. Sure the plant is already stressed and yada yada yada but i have a feeling if we can correct what has happened thats wrong we may be able to move this plant into the correct path of gorgeous growth:) Everyone has differing opinions and what works for them with their house plants. as for me for instance. I water my jades once a week even though its frowned upon... it's what they like. I hope i threw some good info your way! goodluck with your spider!

Purchasing a soil and adding 50% perlite is a half-measure that doesn't change the fact that perched water in the soil will still be present and the ht of the perched water table will be the same as it would be sans the perlite. To visualize, picture in your mind's eye mixing perlite into pudding at a half & half ratio and see how well-aerated and fast draining the pudding becomes. You'd still be growing in pudding because the perlite didn't change anything. At a 50/50 mix, fine soil particles COMPLETELY fill the air spaces between the perlite particles. This means the PWT will still be present at the same ht in a 50/50 mix of peat and a bagged soil. All the perlite accomplishes is an o/a reduction in water retention at container capacity. It doesn't increase aeration or drainage or the ht of the PWT. It can't until the perlite fraction reaches a threshold point where there in no longer enough small particles in the soil mix to fill the air spaces between the perlite particles. This might not even be achievable with 100% perlite if it the perlite is small and contains a lot of very fine particles. If you want better aeration and fast drainage, you need to base your soils on larger particulates - a lot of larger particulates. Half big stuff and half small stuff leaves you growing in a mix with all the negatives associated with all small stuff. Al

My Jolyene Nichole has been lovely this summer. Yeah, she has a bad habit with hiding down in the folliage, but this year she is really showing off. Scapes and blooms have been well above. All the rain I've gotten this season? I don't know, I have a lot of daylilies taller than 'normal' this year. She's been blooming for quit a while now and some days the clump has 15 open at once which is very pretty. I suppose she is not the best pink I have in the garden but she's earning her keep as a front of a border plant in that area. Guess it's each their own. If I had to decide on making run for something else I really wanted and the newer plant had to take just that space as to if she'd get to stay. But as a gardener who is into an overall effect rather than a display daylily bed, I like her just fine. My daylilies are chosen for the type of gardener that I am and must play nice in the area I will put it in as they are mixed in with lots of other plants. I saw Night Embers as a nice clump at a daylily farm last year, but choose a different dark colored clump instead. Overall it was pretty but there were several blooms having a bit of trouble opening properly or having room to open around surrounding buds. Gorgeous coloring. It's still now my 'thinking about it' list as I have a large number od dark blooms already in the area I'd put it, it's not won me over just yet--but than again somedays I can be much 'weaker' than others ;-0

Hello from Texas, Putri, and congratulations on your purchase. You did not mention the variety so I will assume that you purchased a mophead, a.k.a. as a French Hydrangea. All hydrangeas will do well in a location where they get four hours of morning sun or less. Dappled sun under trees will also work. Full shade locations (like under some trees) will limit the number of blooms that the plants produces so do not choose location where the sun does not reach and where indirect sunlight from the other surfaces does not. Also, locate the plant label that comes with most plants and verify that the hydrangea can be planted in your climate zone. In northern climates such as the Northeastern States, you can even plant hydrangeas in full sun but, in more southern locales like Texas and Florida, I would select a location where they get shade starting around 11am or they might suffer from sunscald. Some hot locations may actually be too hot for hydrangeas as they need also need to go dormant during winter months. Note the estimated size of the plant at maturity and pick a spot where the plant will fit; you do not want to have to transplant it in later years and you definitely do not want to prune it every year either. Most mopheads will need about six feet. Your location should have soil that drains well. Most hydrangeas will tolerate some clay in the soil but Oakleaf Hydrangeas will quickly suffer from root rot if allowed to get their feet wet for long periods of time (months). The availability of moisture in the selected location is important. An overhang in your house may prevent rain from reaching the plant so make sure the soil can be kept moist, not wet. It is best to allow the soil to almost dry and then water. On a new plant, you may need to water it one gallon of water once/twice a week, depending on the temperatures. Watering slowly and deeply is best. Because new plants suffer from wilting due to moisture issues, I suggest that you manually check the soil moisture daily by inserting a finger into the soil to a depth of 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm). If it feels dry or almost dry then water; otherwise wait. Then observe how often you have to water (every 2/3/4 days and set your sprinkler to water 1 gallon of water on that schedule. When temperatures change by 10-15 degrees F and stay there, I manually check again to see if I need to water more. If the plant looks EXTREMELY wilted, give it some water immediately. But in most cases, try not to water a plant that is wilting if the soil feels wet; in most cases the plant will recover by bed time or next morning on its own. Wilting episodes start at the end of Spring and end in the Fall. In northern climates, you can fertilize new shrubs with 1 cup of manure or cottonseed meal in June. Remove the mulch, water, spread the fertilizer and water again. Here in the South, I fertilize twice, in May and July. Keep the plant well mulched with 3-4 inches of acidic mulch up to the drip line; and maybe a little past that if you live in a hot location. You may not have to fertilize on your first year as most potted plants already contain slow-release fertilizers (can you notice some of those fertilizer colored balls in your pot?). If your soil is not acidic, you may want to amend the soil in spring with aluminum sulfate or powdered Sulphur to prevent the leaves from developing iron chlorosis. Chelated iron products can also be used. Some plant nurseries sell a pH measuring kit that can help you determine the acidity of your soil. These kits are not accurate but should provide you with a good guesstimate. Kits that give you numbered results are better choices than others which just say that the soil is acid by color choices (it is hard to remember the exact hue of the color you had on prior tests). pH Levels between 5 and 7 are best. At approx. readings of 6.2, mopheads will begin to bloom blue flowers; above that they will bloom pink flowers. You can also grow hydrangeas in pots too. Does all that help you Putri? Luis