Ilex crenata might work; there are cultivars like Sky Pencil, Mariesii, and maybe Dwarf Pagoda. I think they'd be hardy for you and they tolerate shade in case that is what you have there. And then there are the plum yews, formally known as Cephalotaxus. There is a fastigiate form of that, as there is of yew in case that isn't what you worked with before. I also wonder if you would consider the narrow weeping plants - they rule out topiary, but might fit the space. Things like Chamaecyparis 'Van den Akker' or a weeping purple beech. I haven't looked up all of this as to hardiness. If you want to pursue a type of conifer such as juniper or thuja, you could check into the conifers forum for precise guidance. A search of that forum may even bring up similar previously-asked questions. If you post a new question, you could link back to this thread so people there don't have to repeat what we've already suggested. KarinL

Depending on the light conditions, etc., you might do better sticking with the lilies that grow no taller than 3-4' - the taller ones (which can be up to 6-8') tend to lean a bit, and they WILL lean toward the light. Tying them up can work, but they are prone to breaking at the point they are tied, and it's a pain. A number will be willing to bloom in part shade, but in the deepest shade, they won't bloom. If you mostly want the height for the summer and fall/winter months, there are a number of upright-growing grasses, that get to your desired height. You might have to divide them every few years, to keep the widths in bounds. The blades and flower stalks can be left for the winter, and only cut down when the new growth starts in the spring, so there would be only a short period when there would be nothing there. Avoid pampas grass, and a few of the others - the saw-tooth edges of the grass blades can cut bare skin. Since you are willing to do some pruning, either annually, or more often, then the range of possibilities opens up. Just bear in mind that a clipped hedge or individual bush is formal looking, and needs to be shaped with a slight point or roundness to its top, to shed snow, with the sides of the hedge sloping a bit from top to the bottom, so light gets to the lower branches and they stay alive. Non-conifer, or non-evergreen, shrubs growing tall and narrow aren't as easy. Will boxwood be hardy in your area? It's not overly fast growing, but... A tree-form, single trunk amelanchier might do - the spreading out could be kept to the top section. While they have proven to be invasive in some areas, butterfly bushes (Buddleia spp.) can take hard pruning to keep them in shape. Strawberry bush (Euonymus americana) might be too wide, but grows to 5-6', z.5b. Large fothergilla (F. major) might be too wide also, an upright pyramidal shrub to 8', z.5. Rose-of-Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) is another possibility, but looks better when left un-pruned, so you would need to pick the right location - grows to an upright 6-8', with a number of cultivars and flower colors to choose from. Hollies will need pruning to keep them narrow, in general, but there are narrow cultivars. One of the deciduous ones might be nice in winter, but you have to have a male for berries, and it may need pruning. (Holiday decorating?) Kerria is another that might need a little pruning to keep to the width - and it can be temperamental, dieing for no good reason over a winter - the double flowered cultivar seems hardier than the single. An apple or crabapple trained to an espalier might be very nice - it is work.... Pyracantha is another that will work very well espaliered - you can train it into many different shapes if so inclined (hearts, circles, squares, diamonds, etc.) - just be aware it has thorns! P. coccinea 'Lalandei' is hardy to z.5b, with red-orange berries. If fireblight is a major problem in your area, then forget the apples or pyracanthas, although some of the crabapples, and some pyracantha hybrids are resistant.... Climbing or rambling roses can be very effective trellised or on a pillar or post - if you pick varieties with colorful hips, they will last until the birds eat them, or go for those with multiple or ever-blooms for summer interest. A tree-form lilac, or any of the lilacs (with some possible trimming needed) might be perfect. Most of the conifers do have narrow cultivars, and some of the taller-growing ones have smaller selections as well - the trick is to find them. Eastern white pine can be sheared as a hedge, but you do HAVE to keep after it. I would stay away from Dwarf Alberta Spruce - they are prone to disease, and after growing for a few years (usually more than 10), they start to look not-so-pretty. But, there are cedars, arborvitae, etc., etc., that have selections that should work. While you are looking for shrubs, cross-posting in the Trees Forum might garner more answers - some people over there don't look over here, and they are VERY knowledgeable about shrubs as well as trees!

thanks- these pics are mainly from the front yard. the large tree in the first pic is a Colorado blue spruce, surrounding by smaller green giants mostly. The second pic is a norway spruce in full bloom. The last pic is a fat albert spruce- again surrounded by green giants, and a norway spruce peeking in the pic on the right. I have a few bloodgood japanese maples too to pop in some red color. Hope this helps. I know I am not up on all the latin names and such and don't claim to know as much as alot of other people here- but I enjoy doing it. Much of this hobby is trial and error. So it pays to research stuff before you pay for anything. I've lost alot of stuff too.

John from Perry County- I'm a little closer to you in Berks county. Want to come and garden with me? I've got real problems - this guys home is georgeous! My place was beautifully landsceped in the 20's and 30's but lived in since by a mountain man who let it all hang out. Machete time. I have (had) a long row of old boxwood flanking the walk. Caused me to buy the house. It began to decline. Expert #1 - Oh, it's fine. Just put some Miracaid on it and it will come right back (no charge) Expert #2 = Miracid is the worst thing you could have put on this hedge. Your box has a fungus disease. Must be sprayed and trimmed. (charge $50.00 X 2 for spraying, 150.00 for 2 college boys to hack up my hedge) Expert #3 - There is no cure for fungus. Spraying the hedge will do nothing. Took 3 leaved to look at under the microscope. Diagnosis: Your box is dying of old age. ($80.00 for the house visit) I have gotten over the fact that the hedge is no more. Trusting myself from now on and saving some money. Still need a replacement. Don't think it would be a good idea to use box, it's a major project. I only want to do it once. You seem like you have a lot of really good ideas. What do you suggest?