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Listed below is what I have to trade. You may have as many of these as you would like in exchange for a leaf or plant of Optimara Little Moonstone. Leaf cuttings that have grown roots, or small plants (also available as fresh leaf cuttings without roots): Honky Tonk Blues Optimara Evergrace Mac's Will o' the Wisp Saintpaulia Ionantha Fresh leaf cuttings without roots: Harbor Blue Irish Flirt Mac's Cheery Cherry Lemon Whip

I read into the original post that the plants being brought into the house were coming in for only a few days. I thought you were bringing these plants in for only a day or two and then back outside. Sorry. The yellow cards work great for this application but perhaps you are looking for an indoor long term solution. As for neem being used as a systemic, it is primarily effective against sucking insects (aphids, white flies, and their allies). What has not been mentioned thus far, is it takes at a minimum of 1 to 2 applications per week for at least 4 to 6 weeks for the compounds to be translocated into the phloem where sucking insects feed. That means if you started treating your plants now, by about July you might see some benefit for these groups of insects. I figured the plants would be back outside well before the neem would have any systemic effect. As someone has pointed out, the active ingredient in neem can act as a molt inhibitor. The active ingredient breaks down rather quickly in the environment, within 4-8 hours, from oxidation and UV light. If the neem is not in uniform solution when applied, it will likely gather at the soil surface and break down from UV exposure. If these plants are to stay indoors, a regular treatment of neem couldn't hurt. However, if you are bringing these plants in only for a short time, I would avoid products that pushed adult fungus gnats from the infected plants onto house plants that will remain as house plants. In my experience, neem has not worked, though I unlikely treated for weeks on end as other means are more effective. The mosquito dunks work great as well. Good suggestion. The mode of action of Bti is to lacerate the feeding tract of the insects. Natural and effective. Of course as Skybird has suggested, letting the soil dry out between watering watering will help as well. However, there's always someone out there to tell you to try making your own soil, as the available mixes are inadequate for growing plants due to poor drainage, thus the insect problem. It often starts something like this...first you have to find 8 different ingredients from likely 8 different stores that are not in the immediate vicinity. Then you have to make a soil filter to allow only particles of a certain size to sustain plant growth. Break out the knee pads and a tarp and mix it all together. Oh, and then there's practically no nutrients in the mix you made so you had better add some slow release fert. Don't forget to let the newly made mix sit for a few weeks to equilibrate and allow the pH to neutralize from the added lime. If you don't add a slow release fert then you had better get some N-P-K in there with each watering and don't forget the micronutrients. What they forgot to tell you is it's so dry in the Front Range that you will have to water two or three times a day to keep up with transpiration and evaporation. These are the same people that will tell you, all the while residents of California and other western states are running out of drinking water, you should pour nutrient water into your pots until they drain 10 to 20 percent. All of this so that the precious feeder roots don't sit in overly moist conditions for a day or two. I tried it and in my climate and my unwillingness to slave over watering, it wasn't efficient nor effective. It makes sense to me to allow the soil to dry between waterings and in cases where the insects are becoming more than a nuisance, choose an application to actively treat the fungus gnats that aligns with your overall level of commitment and desire to rid yourself of the fungus gnats. They are not a big deal in my opinion and reducing the population with sticky cards suits my needs. I hope this helps a little to clarify the use of neem and provides some perspective on treatment options for the darn fungus gnats. I have attached a link that provides management options, though I note neem is not listed. Here is a link that might be useful: Fungus gnats as household pests

I have Verde Duro soapstone and it is distinctly green. I love it just as it is and have not oiled it. It is 6 months old. It gets a real workout because I cook quite often. It cleans up beautifully with just a damp sponge, and and occasional squirt of Trader Joe's Cedarwood and Sage multi-purpose cleaner. I have had a couple of very minor scratches and a squirt and wipe takes care of them. I have dropped things on it with no dents. The soapstone is soft to the touch and beautiful with our cherry cabinets. I do not ever plan to oil my counters! Also we carried the same stone out to our patio counter and it has weathered very well. Here is a link that might be useful: My Finished Kitchen