eirebyron You are like an expectant parent pacing the hall outside the delivery room...relax and let nature take its' course. If you google blossom drop you will find much written and as many pictures on the subject. You are like the parent who after the baby is born starts to plan which college they will attend...relax (did I already say that) Sounds like you have got everything under control...but remember you will not be able to control Mother Nature Enjoy and Happy Gardening!

take a pen.. and write .. ON THE LEAVES ... the name of the plant ... water is OK for less than 24 hours ... otherwise ... dampen some potting media or mulch .. and shove all of them.. TOGETHER.. into one large pot.. and leave it in the cold garage ... you did not mention if they are leafed out ... they can stay in one pot for upwards of a week easily .. presuming the garage stays rather cool ... and just like a tree.. ONLY the roots in water ... in fact.. 1/2 inch of water.. set the plants in .. then crumple some newspaper to keep them humid ... they dont really need to be submersed ... its not that they need all that much water.. its just that you dont want the roots to dry out ... if they came wrapped in plastic.. i would remove that ... they need air also .... the ONLY stupid question.. is the UNASKED question ... we would NEVER laugh at a reasonable question ... ken

When plants are uprooted what happens is that many of the fragile fine rootlets die. Since they are responsible for maintaining water balance, the plant goes into shock which is fancy for dehydration. Succulents tolerate it well since they are resistant to temporary droughts. Plumeria are pretty resilient too. Flowering is a metabolically expensive activity so blooms will be the first thing to suffer when conditions aren't adequate. Leaves will droop because they lost water pressure. More leaves = more likely to see signs of desiccation, etc. To minimize transplant shock and get a quick recovery, you want to provide conditions that will allow new roots to quickly grow. In the case of Plumeria there is probably nothing better than heat and humidity. Damaged roots are prone to fungal attack when the soil is wet. Damaged roots cannot absorb water from the soil very well, so wet soil stays wet and leads to rot. It is safer to keep soil on the dry side at least for a couple of days. If you can provide warmth and good light, then a week or 2 is enough time for a healthy plant to recover. If you can't, then err on the side of caution and water carefully.

With regard to the appropriateness of using Miracle Grow type concentrated nutrient products, I think it depends totally on the growing methods and media employed and the correct rate and frequency of application. For example, Miracle Grow and similar products provide ideal means of delivering nutrients to tomatoes and peppers grown in containers, IMO, and I have had excellent results and repeated success with such products. Let me address a few points made in a previous post: 1) The build-up of "salts" can easily be flushed out of the growing media in containers and raised beds by occasionally and flooding the growing media a day before you plan on repeating the fertilizer applications. 2) As to "quick fixing" the soil ... when growing in containers, I use a soilless mix of rotted bark fines, sand, ground corn cobs, peat, etc., and the plants depend on supplemental nutrients on a regular basis. Raised beds present a similar problem, but not as dramatic as I fill them with composted manure and other materials supplimental to the other soilless media. I agree that Miracle Grow is rather inappropriate for grade level, traditional dirt farming ... manure, compost, organic fertilizers, and granular chemical fertilizers are more appropriate to that type of gardening. 3) I'm not sure why finely granulated, instantly water soluable nutrients such as Miracle Grow wouldn't be readily available to plants? Maybe Dave can elaborate on that one. But yes, I agree they can be leached out of the growing media easily, and as I mentioned above, it might be appropriate to frequently flush them out and reapply. 4) When using Miracle Grow and similar products on tomatoes, one should pay close attention to the nitrogen percentage as over application will result in excessive foliage production and not address flower/fruit, stem, and root production. That's why such products have formulations especially for bloom boosting, tomato plants, rose plants, azaelias, etc. Read the labels. The products Korney highlighted above work well for tomatoes especially in containers. I've gotten great results in 5-gallon containers using tomato or rose formula after transplant and before blossom set, Bloom Booster a couple of times after blossom set, and then tomato or rose formula again later in the season. I flush the containers and reapply fertilizer once every week or ten days until a good fruit set and then less frequently afterwards. I had to water daily this summer due to extreme heat and drought, so I didn't worry a bit about salt build-up in the containers. In raised beds, I use a modified Earl's Hole Method at planting (do a search), granulated 9-15-15 or 9-12-12 side dressing once on transplant and once again after fruit set, and only use Miracle Grow if I see a serious deficiency. Some varieties are just naturally heavier feeders than others. Has anyone mentioned Epsom salts in this thread. It's very helpful for trace minerals, magnesium and sulfur, and helps the tomatoes take up needed calcium from the soil. I also believe in bone meal ... don't know why, but my tomatoes seem to love it. I can't stress enough the importance of heaping on the compost, mulch, grass clippings, whatever you have to build a good mellow growing medium in your beds and ground level gardens. But I also believe that no matter what you add in the way of organic material, tomatoes need more nutrients than what one gets from rotted organic matter. Just my opinion from experience.